need some help thanks

[rod2190]

Ok figured out the flapping door issue I have my afrs at 14.6-15 at idle 12.8-13.4 part throttle under boost cruise is in 14's but wide open throttle is 12's until about 4500 then it drops to 10 and fmu has both adjustments all the way lean any suggestions

[turbodan]

You likely need a restrictor in the FMU signal line if the bleeder is all the way open and it still goes full rich. You don't want to be below 12:1 AFR. 10 and under is not good.

Anything that can be stuffed into a vacuum line will work. Carburetor jets come to mind. I think you can get a legitimate restrictor from the manufacturer but you can probably make do with something you already have on hand.

[rod2190]

I have the restrictor in the line that came with it think its backward? The little white thing correct?

[turbodan]

Might need a smaller restrictor. They are not directional.

[rod2190]

Wd- 40 straw? Also what's a good pressure for 14lbs I know I have a lot of questions I appreciate your patience

[turbodan]

As long as its smaller than your existing restrictor it should work better. You may need something as small as .030" to get the desired effect.

[Jeremy]

There's no "right" pressure for a given boost level. Fueling is right when the desired AFR and running characteristics are achieved. I will tell you that while 14-15psi of boost is achievable with Motronic, you'll be constantly futzing with it and it might never be perfect in day to day driving. 10-12psi is easier to get consistently right, but Motronic (especially 1.0A) will almost always be a "close enough" type of solution for forced induction.

[chrism]

If the RRFPR is backed all the way out, you have gone past its point of influence.
If you instal a rail mounted adjustable regulator, you can back down the base idle pressure, and increase the rate of rise under boost to lean that out a bit. An aftermarket one for a Grand National will work well. Make sure to have a pressure gauge. What fuel pump do ya have?

That being said. What Jeremy said is correct. You are always going to be chasing a good tune. Sounds like you are making progress. Hell you haven't broken a piston yet

[rod2190]

Hahaha thank god I haven't it I have a b35 head on b34 block k so compression is lower then normal I think that might be y its a little more forgiving....that's good info to know I might just keep at 12 then until I can afford a megasquirt but till then... I have a summit racing 255lph and and Bosch external that's less the 3 years old

[rod2190]

The 255 is less then a month old I noticed after the 255lph was installed with no fmu my idle was a little higher then usual

[turbodan]

If the RRFPR is backed all the way out, you have gone past its point of influence.

Depends on which RRFPR he's got. The old BEGi 2025 is designed to use a restrictor in the signal line if the rate is still too high at the max bleed setting.

[rod2190]

if I can't get my afrs above 10 after 4500 rpm do you think I should turn up the boost my FM you is all the way leaned out you think it would balance it out?

[Jeremy]

if I can't get my afrs above 10 after 4500 rpm do you think I should turn up the boost my FM you is all the way leaned out you think it would balance it out?

My car did roughly the same when it was on Motronic with 30lb injectors. I never did find the root of the issue, but I had a high suspicion it was related to the fuel door on the AFM going full open. I think M1.0A defaults to "full fueling cycle" when the AFM signal maxes out. Try tightening the spring on the AFM more (keep records of how much you turn it so you can set it back if needed) and see if that helps.

[chrism]

Turning up the boost is not a problem solver.

I have done extensive experimenting. 2 sets of pistons to prove it!

if I can't get my afrs above 10 after 4500 rpm do you think I should turn up the boost my FM you is all the way leaned out you think it would balance it out?