Vlad: The Zinno '87 535is
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- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Jul 21, 2011 8:05 PM
- Location: Rochester Hills, Michigan
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- Posts: 104
- Joined: Sep 01, 2013 2:45 PM
- Location: Atlanta
Thanks!
Hard to believe its been a year already! Thanks for keeping us frequently updated, your posts are very informative and inspiring
Re: Thanks!
I second thisCYoung wrote:Hard to believe its been a year already! Thanks for keeping us frequently updated, your posts are very informative and inspiring
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
If you're subscribed to my M30B35 thread you know that it is finally going together. Maytag is now 'done' enough that I think I'm mostly confident (!?!) in it as a daily driver. This means it is time to get serious about parking Vlad and pulling the current engine.
But first, I'm going to dyno it. I have an appointment on Friday at Carb Connection in Kirkland to do three runs:
- As-is, with the Conforti chip
- With the OEM chip
- With the Miller MAF and Miller chip I got from Kohler
Sometime this week I'm going to hack up the mods required to make the Miller plug and play (I hope). If I can't get the MAF done, then no biggie; it was just for shits-and-giggles anyway.
The key is to know precisely what rwhp/rwtq the car currently produces so that after the new engine is in we can see what all that money bought us.
I'm starting to build a list of things that I will replace/refurbish on Vlad once the engine bay is empty. I figure that as long as I don't take TOO long, there's no rush, and given I'm keeping this car forever, I might as well fix anything that's hard to get to unless the motor/tranny are out.
Please help me flush this list out.
If you're subscribed to my M30B35 thread you know that it is finally going together. Maytag is now 'done' enough that I think I'm mostly confident (!?!) in it as a daily driver. This means it is time to get serious about parking Vlad and pulling the current engine.
But first, I'm going to dyno it. I have an appointment on Friday at Carb Connection in Kirkland to do three runs:
- As-is, with the Conforti chip
- With the OEM chip
- With the Miller MAF and Miller chip I got from Kohler
Sometime this week I'm going to hack up the mods required to make the Miller plug and play (I hope). If I can't get the MAF done, then no biggie; it was just for shits-and-giggles anyway.
The key is to know precisely what rwhp/rwtq the car currently produces so that after the new engine is in we can see what all that money bought us.
I'm starting to build a list of things that I will replace/refurbish on Vlad once the engine bay is empty. I figure that as long as I don't take TOO long, there's no rush, and given I'm keeping this car forever, I might as well fix anything that's hard to get to unless the motor/tranny are out.
Please help me flush this list out.
- Driveshaft - The one in the car has 177k on it.
- Guibo
- Brake bomb (no service records of it being replaced)
- Master cylinder (TBD - PO installed one from a 740i at 165K miles when he upgraded the brakes)
- Heater fans
- Touch up paint in engine bay
- Powder coat front sub-frame & bits
- Beef up steering box bracket
- Short shift kit? Not sure I want one, but at the minimum I'll take a close look at all bushings.
- New clutch/throwout/slave.
- Car shifts great; I'm assuming the tranny is fine. I'll replace the fluid, but otherwise leave it alone.
- Drop & clean gas tank. I may replace it as it has a dent in it.
- New in-tank fuel pump.
- May re-paint the entire underside.
Good point. I'll do that.kzolee wrote:The tranny has 3 shaft seals, I'd consider on replacing them.cek wrote: Car shifts great; I'm assuming the tranny is fine. I'll replace the fluid, but otherwise leave it alone.
Vlad now has a Miller MAF, btw. See this thread for details:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=1245393
This is the old ECU:
The new "modified for MAF" ECU:
And the MAF installed:
With the MAF installed throttle response is sharper. Idle is surging between 600 and 900 rpm, kinda like it was way back when I swapped out AFMs. It almost wants to stall when it dips.
I had a nice time at the dyno place this afternoon. Learned a bunch.
First, here's a video of a run. Note this was a 4th gear test run. We did all of the real runs in 3rd gear. I didn't video them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MQ8qCFbpag
I can't all post charts yet because I didn't have a thumbdrive and the files they emailed me were incomplete (I only have them for the MAF setup).
Here's the summary (69.5 degres, 30.07 in-Hg, Humidity 25%, SAE: 0.97, all runs in 3rd gear):
Full resolution graph here: https://flic.kr/p/n3bVR1
A few discussion-worthy points:
If the M30B35 is good for 30-40 hp as Paul Burke has suggested, then when I do runs after break-in, I should easily break 200 and maybe push 210 hp. Of course this all assumes it doesn't blow up the first time I try to run it.
First, here's a video of a run. Note this was a 4th gear test run. We did all of the real runs in 3rd gear. I didn't video them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MQ8qCFbpag
I can't all post charts yet because I didn't have a thumbdrive and the files they emailed me were incomplete (I only have them for the MAF setup).
Here's the summary (69.5 degres, 30.07 in-Hg, Humidity 25%, SAE: 0.97, all runs in 3rd gear):
- 059 ECU with OEM chip and standard AFM: 172.72 rwhp / 188.01 rwtrq @ 5500 rpm. Peak A/F at about 14.1 near 4000 rpm, but just below 13 at 5500 rpm.
- 059 ECU with Conforti chip and standard AFM: 175.58 rwhp / 187.58 rwtrq @5200 rpm. Peak A/F just over 15 at about 4500 rpm. Just under 14 at 5500 rpm.
- 059 ECU with Miller MAF chip (not War) and Miller mAF: 169.81 rwhp / 184.31 rwtrq. One run had peak A/F at almost 16 at 2200 and 3500 rpm, below 14 mid-range, and rises to ~15.5 at 6000 rpm.
Full resolution graph here: https://flic.kr/p/n3bVR1
A few discussion-worthy points:
- Neither the MAF nor Conforti chip show any significant power increase over the OEM. In fact, the MAF is measurably LOWER.
- In my very first test run, in 4th gear, with the MAF the results were 172.49/190.86, but it was clear it was not a good run because the graph was super lumpy along the entire run, so it does not count.
- We ran several runs with each setup and the numbers and they were all basically the same for each.
- I'm running lean in all setups. It is pretty bad with the MAF, approaching 16 at high RPM. But even with the OEM chip it doesn't drop below 13 (where I've been told is about right) until above 5000 rpm. I have no explanation for why I'm running lean.
If the M30B35 is good for 30-40 hp as Paul Burke has suggested, then when I do runs after break-in, I should easily break 200 and maybe push 210 hp. Of course this all assumes it doesn't blow up the first time I try to run it.
Last edited by tig on Apr 15, 2014 2:15 PM, edited 5 times in total.
Driveline service of Portland. They no longer manufacture E28 drive shafts with replaceable u-joints. Apparently the guy who drove that retired and has subsequently passed away :-(.CYoung wrote:Refurbished or OEM? Guessing refurbished from whatever paper is attached to it. If so who did you go through?
You can still buy a re-manufactured shaft through them for $400 - $95 core refund (shipped).
I've now had first hand dyno experience with both 80s vintage Porsche and BMW aftermarket chips (with all else being equal). My conclusion: they are worse than a waste of money as the only change you'll ever notice is engine damage due to over-revving...because they all either eliminate or raise the redline.
Which, if you look at most power curves for these motors, is stupid to begin with because peak power is almost always found well below the redline.
When I get my data files and post all the graphs you'll also see the curve for the OEM chip is smoother across the entire rev range.
3-4hp, less smoothness, and a chance someone will over rev your engine: not worth it.
Now, I do regret not putting this car on the dyno before I put on the headers and cat-delete exhaust. I'd love to have actual data for that mod.
Which, if you look at most power curves for these motors, is stupid to begin with because peak power is almost always found well below the redline.
When I get my data files and post all the graphs you'll also see the curve for the OEM chip is smoother across the entire rev range.
3-4hp, less smoothness, and a chance someone will over rev your engine: not worth it.
Now, I do regret not putting this car on the dyno before I put on the headers and cat-delete exhaust. I'd love to have actual data for that mod.
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- Location: Westboro, MA
I've updated the dyno post above to include a new graph showing runs for all three setups. Or you can click here: https://flic.kr/p/n3bVR1
I hope I can find time to install this tonight. My plan is to just wire it in 'quick and dirty', plumbing it through the glove box and not mounting the gauge anywhere permanently.
Once the B35 goes in I'll do something more permanent, but i really have no intention of having the gauge always visible.
I have an IE FPR inbound as well.
Once the B35 goes in I'll do something more permanent, but i really have no intention of having the gauge always visible.
I have an IE FPR inbound as well.
For now I have the glovebox out and the Air Fuel Mixture meter mounted with a zip tie. I installed it by tying it directly in to the pin 35 power to the ECU.
Here's the adjustable fuel regulator installed.
I've done a few test drives, tweaking the flow. Not really sure what I'm doing, but feel like i'm figuring it out. I know high is bad :-)
Tweaked the AFR so it fits better and the hose can't kink.
Also installed the MAF again. I've decided that I'm going to run it until the motor's out of the car. With the AFR and the wideband meter monitoring I found that by turning up the fuel pressure slightly she runs slightly richer with the MAF.
And for funzies I checked a spark plug. I was curious what they looked like given the car has been running lean.
Also installed the MAF again. I've decided that I'm going to run it until the motor's out of the car. With the AFR and the wideband meter monitoring I found that by turning up the fuel pressure slightly she runs slightly richer with the MAF.
And for funzies I checked a spark plug. I was curious what they looked like given the car has been running lean.
In other news, I think Vlad is trying to tell me something: It wants the new engine.
First, I'm now feeling slippage in the clutch. I knew it was about due when I bought the car and that's part of the motivation for the engine transplant.
Second, on the way in to work this morning the oil light on the check panel came on. I checked the oil level and it's full. I guess the switch in the oil pan decided to go bad.
I checked the oil level right away because I had a pit-in-the-stomach-feeling that my recent hard runs with a potential lean setup caused damage. Glad I walked myself away from that ledge by verifying the oil is still full (this car has never really burnt much oil).
First, I'm now feeling slippage in the clutch. I knew it was about due when I bought the car and that's part of the motivation for the engine transplant.
Second, on the way in to work this morning the oil light on the check panel came on. I checked the oil level and it's full. I guess the switch in the oil pan decided to go bad.
I checked the oil level right away because I had a pit-in-the-stomach-feeling that my recent hard runs with a potential lean setup caused damage. Glad I walked myself away from that ledge by verifying the oil is still full (this car has never really burnt much oil).
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- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Jul 21, 2011 8:05 PM
- Location: Rochester Hills, Michigan
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