Just when I'm starting to feel conversant on Megasquirt you guys have to take off on a whole new tangent! Could I request you folks go watch girls on some corner for a few months while I get caught up on the learning curve ...again.
I think this a great actually and the Pontiac part looks nice too.
brad if im not running the glens garage, this install is still able to be done without running one, correct? and did you run another connector on your ecu like in the ms2-extra hardware manual recomendation? If so i would like to see some pictures of that install. And you did run 2 extra vb921's and 330 resistors for your outputs? I was looking in to it and you make is seem a bit easier then i am seeing it as being....
although i am going to do it and have already grabbed my coil packs from a late 90's early 2000's grand am with the 3 connector pack. So.... dan if you have a diagram for your to put up that would be good to add to this sticky, then we will have a few directions covered....
If you have any extra outputs already deployed you will need to add an additional db9 or db15 plug. I don't have any pics, but you can add one catty corner to the db37 plug, underneath the MS board. The vb921 has been discontinued, the bip373 is it's counterpart. You do not need the gg idle board, you can simply mount them directly to the case. Just be sure to use the mica insulator underneath the fet.
Mike is correct. You do NOT need the GG idle board, it just makes things a little easier. You just need to mount two more IGBT drivers (most like the BIP373 which will also need a 330Ω resistor). Since I was using an adapter board (my old Motronic case) and I had my idle board mounted inside, I added a DB9 connector to the adapter box which just allows me to plug my coil harness into the Motronic case.
thanks guys. i appreciate the additional info, it helps when its in front of you and you dont have to meter everything out. just an off note, brad and mike, i kept the original 2 wire idle valve i had and used the pwm mod from diyauto and the valve works quite well as a warm up valve. i am pretty sure i could use it for closed loop but it was easy enough to get it setup for warm up. i have a few bugs to work out just yet but when i do i will post my settings.
hey guys how did you get your tach on the dash working properly, are you using the tach output on the ms? or did you go with diodes on all three inputs to the tach input?
Big Bronze Rim wrote:PPF makes one but it's not cheap. It does have a cool cam sensor mount on it though.
If a few people were interested, it would be a pretty simple job for www.emachineshop.com. Judging by their pricing, if you bought 5, they'd probably come out to ~$40 a piece.
bornagain wrote:hey guys how did you get your tach on the dash working properly, are you using the tach output on the ms? or did you go with diodes on all three inputs to the tach input?
I am using an output from MS. I believe that I am using JS10 for the tach. It works great.
If a few people were interested, it would be a pretty simple job for www.emachineshop.com. Judging by their pricing, if you bought 5, they'd probably come out to ~$40 a piece.
That's perfect!
Did you actually design one with their CAD tool? If so would you share the drawing just to see what you came up with?
if you want i also have a connection for water jetting here in edmonton. i had the flange for my turbo cut from half inch mild steel and he only charged me 35$ cad under the table and he said anytime i want anything done to just let him know. im sure i could get him to cut a bunch up too. all i would need to do is make a drawing of it on autocad and choose what stalk to do it out of. would everyone prefer stainless or mild steel. and what thickness and with or with out the opening for the cam sensor?
Did you actually design one with their CAD tool? If so would you share the drawing just to see what you came up with?
No, I've never tried it. I'm sure this piece would be pretty simple. Unfortunately both of my upper timing covers are in their cars so I don't have one to measure up. I also don't have as much incentive to do it yet because I don't yet have megasquirt:) It's coming this winter though...
well i have a distributor to go off of now so i am going to pull it out and get my mom to draft up(shes a certified drafts person) some prints and i am probably going to get it cut out of aluminum to match the rest and so that i dont need a gasket for oxidization issues. im not going to put a cam timing sensor hole in mine cause i really dont care to screw around with the setup for a long while from now.
Just got this installed on my e34 however I'm having some problems with response and some stumbling around 2k. I'm curious as how much the timing table is going to need to change or if if needs to be touched up at all. My previous tune seemed to run perfect, so something is not right here.
I understand this is an old post, but anyone with any relevant knowledge should suffice.
The timing table shouldn't need any changes, as only the spark energy has changed. It seems odd that you would have stumbling. What are you using for drivers and how are you using the LED outputs to drive them? What code are you using? It's been a while since I updated my firmware and am wondering if there are changes that affect waste spark outputs.
Brad D. wrote:The timing table shouldn't need any changes, as only the spark energy has changed. It seems odd that you would have stumbling. What are you using for drivers and how are you using the LED outputs to drive them? What code are you using? It's been a while since I updated my firmware and am wondering if there are changes that affect waste spark outputs.
I'm using the BIP373s for drivers. I followed your instructions to a T, it is for a diypnp board but I think I got the same concept across. I'm using the newest firmware, 3.3.2. One of the things I was wondering if maybe the .030 is to much of a gap and maybe that could be causing some of the problem? Lots of backfire, especially on deceleration.
marc79euro645 wrote:I assume you're using a vr sensor as trigger. You may need to adjust the pots to get stable vr signal. Did this change with the coil packs?
Yep, vr sensor with the 60-2 wheel. Before I put in the MSD coil packs it was running of the stock distributor, if that is what you mean.
Previously I was using feeler gauges to measure the gap. I went back over them with a spark plug gap tool and they read .036. I dialed them back down to .028ish and all of the backfiring and weird noises are gone. Still have a bit of stumbling though. The thing I don't understand is that my old spark plugs were the same exact size when I was running the stock distributor. I don't under stand how the stock distributor could cross the gap but the MSD coils were having problems.
I had to tune the pots on my ms2 to get a stable pulse. read this http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm
You should be able to open the plug gaps back, once you get a stable vr pulse. I run .030" on mine with a blaster2 coil.
good luck
marc
marc79euro645 wrote:I had to tune the pots on my ms2 to get a stable pulse. read this http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm
You should be able to open the plug gaps back, once you get a stable vr pulse. I run .030" on mine with a blaster2 coil.
good luck
marc
Would the 1.5v diypnp board have those? I don't think I remember installing any such thing.
Last edited by ZenitramNaes on Jan 28, 2015 9:40 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Just when I'm starting to feel conversant on Megasquirt you guys have to take off on a whole new tangent! Could I request you folks go watch girls on some corner for a few months while I get caught up on the learning curve ...again. 
