Vlad: The Zinno '87 535is

[tig]

Rear headrests maybe?

I actually have a set and have started installing them. I have put the holes in the parcel shelf along with the trim pieces.

However, the amplifier the PO installed is attached to the vinyl cover over the rear of the seat and I can't install the headrest brackets without first removing the amp. I ran out of time before 5erWest for this project, so I've decided just to wait until I have another excuse to pull the amp off.

[Cooperman]

Just saw the finished product. Awesome car. Great work.

[tig]

I met with my buddy who has the Zinno '89 325ix this morning and got a chance to put the cars side by side.

Both were painted within last 6 months by Ken. Rick went with two-stage. And, as you all know I did single-stage.

In person, the color difference is quite noticeable. The two-stage is darker and browner. Or, the single-stage is brighter and redder. You pick.

I don't think the pics show the difference as much.

[bkbimmer]

You should change its name to the pink panther.

[Karl Grau]

I like the e28's shade of red better but the e30 is more glossy/shiny. Your single stage will stand the test of time though, unlike the two stage.

[emwexler]

Can somebody pls tell me how to post pics from my laptop?? Lol
Starting to feel stuid
These r great btw

[Kyle in NO]

The Maaco Shark.

[leadphut]

Caitlyn seems to be more and more appropriate.

[bkbimmer]

E30's look gross next to an e28.

[tig]

Today my plan was to do some little jobs in the center console.

Then, I got a wild hair and decided I was just procrastinating: It was time to fix the stupid main-seal leak, put in the right throwout-bearing, rid myself of the fu**king UUC shifter, put in the new sub-frame with adjustable camber, etc...

So I dug in...


As I pulled the exhaust, I spent some time measuring and testing and I've decided I'm going to keep the IE exhaust, but just tweak it. It will actually be pretty easy to do. Not sure what I'll do with the magnaflow exhaust yet...

I am going to do something about the u-bolts on the headers though. They keep catching on the bridge jack when I pull the car off the lift if I have it too far back.


Pretty clear the leak is coming from the main seal. The odd thing is, it looks like it's leaking from the outer part of the seal ring; I had guessed it was coming from the face that touches the crank. There was less oil in there than I thought there'd be, the leak seemed to have slowed down after 1000 miles or so.


In any-case we put the right kind of sealant on this time (Aviation #3) with a new gasket and main seal. This seal was a different manufacture too.


Because my flywheel is lightened and thinner, the standard throw-out bearing (PN 21517521471) is too short. As a result to engage the clutch the pedal has to be almost to the floor. This new one should make it much better (PN 21511204525).


That heat-shield insulation I used has failed me. The rubber backing does not hold up to the heat and melts. And pours out the bottom of the car like the La Brea Tar Pits. Makes for a really nice smell when it drips on the exhaust. It gooped up in several places, including on top of the bell housing.


It's actually fine up high on the firewall where there's not a ton of heat, so that's good. But I put CJ to work cleaning the old crap off the lower parts. Cooperman had put some new stuff on the Blue car that looked much better:
[urlhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029KC2K?tag=ceklog-20][/url]

I had ordered some, not really thinking about how much came in an order. Thankfully it was the perfect amount for recovering where the old stuff was. I still need to clean off some of the residue from the old stuff.


Some evening this week we'll drop the rear sub-frame and go to town on that end of the car...

[bkbimmer]

Before you put it back together you should have Ken paint the underside of the car. Would be titties.

[2 5's and a 7]

Before you put it back together you should have Ken paint the underside of the car. Would be titties.

Haven't seen that refernce in awhile. Old boss one day asked how his Peterbuilt was comming along (race car hauler) I told him the painter said it would be tits. He got excited and said well tits are good!

[tig]

Before you put it back together you should have Ken paint the underside of the car. Would be titties.

Haven't seen that refernce in awhile. Old boss one day asked how his Peterbuilt was comming along (race car hauler) I told him the painter said it would be tits. He got excited and said well tits are good!

I read "tittles", which, as we all know, is what you call the dots above the 'i' and 'j'. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tittle

I like tittles.

I like ümlats as well.

[geordi]

You have been a very busy boy after 5erWest! Nice work.
I'll send you a couple of swatches of the alcantara I used on Cupcake.

[Stevo12]

[tig]

Last night CJ & I got the transmission back in. We had filled the engine with oil the night before just to see if there were any signs of leaks...none. Not that that would be a great test, but why not?

I also installed the Autosolutions shifter.


Even though I haven't used it in anger, I already like it tons better than the UUC. Crisp is how I'd describe it. It's also shorter than the UUC which I appreciate. I also really like the way it's constructed. Super sturdy and confidence inspiring.

I now have a UUC Evo 3 shift kit for sale. About 7K miles on it. Nothing wrong with it, per-se, except I hate it.


Make me an offer. If it's not silly, I'll probably accept it.

[tig]

The rear subframe is out. It would have been better/easier to pull the diff and axles off first. The whole contraption is just way too heavy to man-handle with only two people under a 4 post lift. I could see it being easier to do if the car was just on jack-stands and a rolling dolly underneath, but with the 4 post lift we had to rotate it 90 degrees while supported on a transmission jack and then use our backs to actually lift it to the table. We got it done, and there were no deaths, but I have suspicion my back may go out in the next few weeks...







Nothing will happen this weekend (we have a wedding to go to) but next week I'll pull the diff and clean it up and maybe paint it. I have another nice diff cover (no reason this one won't clean up nice with the soda blaster). The diff oil was changed just a few K ago, so I'm loathe to pull the cover off, but I can't stand it having red paint on it. I'll pull the TAs off this sub-frame and clean/paint them too. I may paint them aluminum. I have new bushings for the new subframe, but I may just use these as they only have about 8k miles on them. Not sure how hard powerflex bushings are to remove. If they are hard to remove I'll just leave them in...this subframe is going in the blue car eventually (with adjustable camber kit). All the other bushings should be fine as they were all done at the same time. I'll also clean the hell out of the underside of the body.

[unt0uchable]

Doin' werk. Me likes.

[leadphut]

if you're gonna throw out your back, you'd better make it worth your time. are those shocks fresh?

that underside isn't quite worthy of the fresh paint. maybe Ken should continue painting.

[vinceg101]

Looking good Charlie; you have been busy over the last few weeks.

1. Go powdercoat or go home. Powdercoating the RTA's and Subframe it the way to go, Doesn't have to be black, the rear diff cover is powdercoated silver:


2. On the "While You're In There..." list: you might as well have the rear sway bar mounts reinforced now that you have the whole rear end out. If you've not upgraded already, you can step up to M5 or ST larger diameter versions.

3. Definitely soda blast the rear diff and repaint. I had mine sandblasted then just used successive layers of high-heat gloss spray paint over good primer. (Although I might have used Eastwood's Chassis Black, I can't recall at the moment; either way, it's holding up whatever I used).

4. Unless you like bending your own pipe or paying for it, reuse your old brake pipes and fittings if they're in decent shape. There are some clips and holders for the brake lines (hoses, pipes and parking) that are NLA so look them up before ripping them all off. Remember to buy new brake backing plates and install them in the right sequence. Oh and replace the parking brake also (cable, pads, hardware, etc.).

5. If you haven't done so already, replace the rear wheel bearings also while the whole rig is out. It's a pain, but you should do it.

[davintosh]

The rear subframe is out. It would have been better/easier to pull the diff and axles off first. The whole contraption is just way too heavy to man-handle with only two people...

You'll have time to heal before reinstalling the thing. Just remember what you learned and reinstall the subframe before the diff & axles.

[tig]

Looking good Charlie; you have been busy over the last few weeks.

1. Go powdercoat or go home. Powdercoating the RTA's and Subframe it the way to go, Doesn't have to be black, the rear diff cover is powdercoated silver:


2. On the "While You're In There..." list: you might as well have the rear sway bar mounts reinforced now that you have the whole rear end out. If you've not upgraded already, you can step up to M5 or ST larger diameter versions.

3. Definitely soda blast the rear diff and repaint. I had mine sandblasted then just used successive layers of high-heat gloss spray paint over good primer. (Although I might have used Eastwood's Chassis Black, I can't recall at the moment; either way, it's holding up whatever I used).

4. Unless you like bending your own pipe or paying for it, reuse your old brake pipes and fittings if they're in decent shape. There are some clips and holders for the brake lines (hoses, pipes and parking) that are NLA so look them up before ripping them all off. Remember to buy new brake backing plates and install them in the right sequence. Oh and replace the parking brake also (cable, pads, hardware, etc.).

5. If you haven't done so already, replace the rear wheel bearings also while the whole rig is out. It's a pain, but you should do it.

I am saving up for the blue car now, so im not going to go nutz here. No big sways, bearings are fine, and no moar powder.

[OcCoupe]

This didn't cost much.





it's in the details.

[tig]

I meant saving up "time".

[bkbimmer]

Time is far more valuable than money. I waste both of them nearly equally.

[geordi]

You can doooooo it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uuzmub5PXNQ

[1st 5er]

Thank God there's none of ^^^^ here.

[pldlnr]

#Vald is a nice car. Given the fact that it is a daily driver, I really don't see the point of refinishing every piece under the car. It makes more sense for a garage queen or a car that will be shown.

[leadphut]

^

charlie can't help it. we haven't seen the end of it either.

[Adam W in MN]

Time is far more valuable than money. I waste both of them nearly equally.

bada boom. Brent, the king of the one-liners.