Oops. Yes, I did. I previously had too way too much negative camber.austin_caccavo wrote:I think you mixed up your positive and negative camber definitions sir
Now it's close to tits. I'm going to have Byron put it on his alignment machine and tweak it as needed asap, but for now the camber looks almost at 0; maybe a tad positive. The toe looks right to the eye, but I didn't do any serious measuring with a string or laser or anything. I want a LITTLE negative camber.
Here's a detail shot of the dogbone bolt and my mod:
I had CJ to help me today (man I'm going to miss him when he goes back to college in few weeks; he's so damn useful!), and putting things back together/adjusting the toe/camber was far easier with another set of hands.
Interesting that the rear looks noticeably higher with the IE adjustable subframe mod. I wish I would have measured the ride height before doing this. I suppose that the more positive camber angle makes it look taller because the tire isn't as tucked?
I went out for a rompus shake down drive this afternoon. I am pleased to report:
- The new, taller, throw out bearing is the bees-knees. It is so nice not having to slam the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to engage the clutch!
- The new Autosolutions shifter is FANTASTIC. This is what I imagined the UUC shift kit would feel like (and how I remembered it feeling on my E34 M-Sport). No more play in the Z axis and the knob sits where it's supposed to be. It's also shorter (even though I had the UUC adjusted as short as it could get).
- No odd noises from the drive-train. After the drive I re-checked all bolts and everything was snug.
- I love driving this car. I missed it for the past 3 weeks! Maytag's a fantastic car to drive, but this car is shit-eating-grin fun.
I decided to verify that my dream for modifying the IE exhaust would work. I pulled the rear section apart and did some measuring. This pic shows my plan. I'll cut 8cm off the pipes that come from the resonator and fabricate an extension bracket for the rear hanger. Based on my scoping-out today i'll be able to easily get the top of the tips about 5mm below the cutout in the rear valance. The tips will stick out slightly too far, but the point where they taper into the pipes will no longer be visible. If I can find someone with a really good saw, I may cut the tips a little shorter too.
The only potential issue I see with this is the pipe that goes into the muffler will only be about 1.5" from the back of the diff. I choose 8cm because any more than that and it would be what looked uncomfortably close to me. I'm concerned about excess heat on the diff. Should I be?
When I had my camber and toe set back to factory specs the wheels started to rub the fenders.
