Have searched for a solid answer in forum, can I run stock timing and injectors up to 8-10 psi boost?
Here are the parts for my build, 1985 635csi,wh1c 12cm, electronic actuated internal waste gate, 40mm bov, wideband monitor/boost gauge/temp, custom manifold and plumbing, no intercooler.
stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
Re: stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
I'm using 24lb injectors (up from the stock 17) and a RRFPR/ FMU.
In addition I have the TCD chip to retard timing and prevent detonation. 10psi right now.
In addition I have the TCD chip to retard timing and prevent detonation. 10psi right now.
Re: stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
How's is it working for you, can you share turbo type, fmu, is it blow thru?
Re: stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
More detail, read my build thread. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=126432
Are you just researching or are you ready to start the car? It really comes down to a lot of things, including octane you plan to use, if you plan to dial up the boost, etc etc
Are you just trying to do this cheap? Injectors should be sized for your desired power output, but there is a max size if you stick with Motronic...
Are you just researching or are you ready to start the car? It really comes down to a lot of things, including octane you plan to use, if you plan to dial up the boost, etc etc
Are you just trying to do this cheap? Injectors should be sized for your desired power output, but there is a max size if you stick with Motronic...
Re: stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
Thank you for your help, will check your build thread. Am shooting for 250-300hp so sounds like chip and 24lb injectors are in order. I have the other parts.
Re: stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
Some people uprate to 32lb injectors, but I can't speak to how well they work. Larger injector may possibly mean rich idle condition or too rich WOT condition... All depends on the air you are moving, the fuel pump you have and if you end up using an FMU or not...
Some people adjust their AFM, but I haven't want to resort to that, since it may or may not be reversible. For me, I can keep it as is and swap it into another car to verify proper operation.
Some people adjust their AFM, but I haven't want to resort to that, since it may or may not be reversible. For me, I can keep it as is and swap it into another car to verify proper operation.
Re: stock timing and injectors on low boost m30b34
I see you mention that you have a wideband oxygen sensor, that is a brilliant piece of equipment when it comes to monitoring your motor and it's tune, especially if you are running bandaid solutions to try to get more power.
By bandaid solution I mean, running a stock ECU and injectors with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator along with boost.
Ideally a proper solution would be to get an aftermarket ECU and larger injectors and fuel pump, the last thing you want to do is lean your motor out under power due to too small injectors or a fuel supply issue.
At least having a wideband sensor like AEM's Failsafe one would be ideal in your situation, set it up to activate an ignition cut or similar when it reads a lean AFR outside your set parameters, a very cheap safety solution to save your motor if something fails.
As for your setup, to maximise it, at the least i'd run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, 1psi of boost raises the fuel pressure 1psi too, that way you at least maintain your set injector pressure constantly. Definitely fit a larger fuel pump like a walbro or bosch pump. Unless you fit a chip to the ECU or go to an aftermarket ECU, adjusting timing isn't possible, and this will also be a fast killer of the motor if it detonates when it comes on boost.
Cooler inlet temps by fitting an intercooler, or by running a water/meth injection system will also give you some more safety margin to stave off detonation, as well as running the best fuel you can get.
Dodgy way s to get more fuel with the stock ECU is to run larger injectors on the stock tune, this can really screw up the idle and off boost areas of the map as that's not tuned for so much extra fuel, but once on boost you could run a rising rate regulator that has a 2:1 ratio of pressure increase to boost.
Then there is the fact that the VANE AFM setup isn't ideal for boost, probably want to play around with changing the spring tension of that suit, as this can adjust the base idle AFR as well as the AFR over different loads of air flow.
I guess it comes down to how much you want to do yourself and how skilled you are at tinkering and adjusting, what your time is worth, and whether or not its just cheaper to outsource a new ECU like a megasquirt setup which would eliminate everything I have just mentioned with a correct set of injectors and a decent tune (and also yield much more power and reliably too)
By bandaid solution I mean, running a stock ECU and injectors with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator along with boost.
Ideally a proper solution would be to get an aftermarket ECU and larger injectors and fuel pump, the last thing you want to do is lean your motor out under power due to too small injectors or a fuel supply issue.
At least having a wideband sensor like AEM's Failsafe one would be ideal in your situation, set it up to activate an ignition cut or similar when it reads a lean AFR outside your set parameters, a very cheap safety solution to save your motor if something fails.
As for your setup, to maximise it, at the least i'd run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, 1psi of boost raises the fuel pressure 1psi too, that way you at least maintain your set injector pressure constantly. Definitely fit a larger fuel pump like a walbro or bosch pump. Unless you fit a chip to the ECU or go to an aftermarket ECU, adjusting timing isn't possible, and this will also be a fast killer of the motor if it detonates when it comes on boost.
Cooler inlet temps by fitting an intercooler, or by running a water/meth injection system will also give you some more safety margin to stave off detonation, as well as running the best fuel you can get.
Dodgy way s to get more fuel with the stock ECU is to run larger injectors on the stock tune, this can really screw up the idle and off boost areas of the map as that's not tuned for so much extra fuel, but once on boost you could run a rising rate regulator that has a 2:1 ratio of pressure increase to boost.
Then there is the fact that the VANE AFM setup isn't ideal for boost, probably want to play around with changing the spring tension of that suit, as this can adjust the base idle AFR as well as the AFR over different loads of air flow.
I guess it comes down to how much you want to do yourself and how skilled you are at tinkering and adjusting, what your time is worth, and whether or not its just cheaper to outsource a new ECU like a megasquirt setup which would eliminate everything I have just mentioned with a correct set of injectors and a decent tune (and also yield much more power and reliably too)