E28 Shifter FAQ

[wkohler]

Ever worked a rifle bolt before?

[zackwest24]

Yeah...
I guess mine sort of feels like it has to be pushed through a "kink" before sliding in to gear.

[BimmerDan]

Did anyone have trouble fitting the yellow washers on the selector rod with the z3 (25 11 1 434 148) shifter? Also did anyone not re-install the spring after the switch? Thanks for any help

[wkohler]

IIRC, the joint on the later shifters is wider, so you can't use the yellow washers. I don't use short shifters, but the one I installed in a friend's car, I believe we ran into that and on the advice of a professional, we omitted the yellow washers. Are you installing this in a sheet metal console? Is the spring you're talking about the one that goes on top of the ball cup parts, under the circlip? It should all go back together, but the tricky part is that the newer lever doesn't come apart like the old ones did. There's no reason you couldn't twist the spring on around the shifter lever though. You have to get the circlip in there too to hold everything together. #10 is the only thing that should have to be modified. Just cut it and you should be good.

[BimmerDan]

Thanks Chris for the smoking fast reply. There is a metal retainer on top of the spring that there is no way to get on the new shifter without cutting, I know I will destroy it trying to get it off. Maybe the C clip will hold the spring down. I will try it tomorrow night. And yes it is on the sheet metal console.

[wkohler]

I think you will have to cut #8 too. It might go together without it, so you might try that first, but I'm afraid it will be somewhat loose just judging by how the wear of the cups affects the tightness of the shifter. I've got a sheetmetal console in the garage with some sort of later BMW lever in it. I will have a look at it tomorrow and see what is in there.

[BimmerDan]

8 is the one I'm concerned about. Maybe if I take my time I can cut trough it with out bending it to bad. I'll give it a try. Thanks again.
It's been ten years but I don't think I had to bend the selector rod last time. Then again I don't remember which z3 shifter I used.

[BimmerDan]

I was able to cut the ring no problem and the spring fit over the bottom easily. Thanks for the help Chris.

[wkohler]

Good. I looked at what I had and there was no ring and no circlip. They just stuck the two cups in there, with the top one having been cut.

Glad you got it sorted! I seriously could not find your thread and then just realized it was at the end of this. Sorry it took so long. I was getting ready to PM you.

[jonas]

Thanks for great advice!
I was a bit confused regarding what exact parts one have to change in order to refurbish the shifter but this made it all clear.
I ordered all needed (aluminium console) parts for my 260/6 from BMW Classic Teile Shop today.

[Owndapwn]

So other than going to a short shifter, are there any stiffer linkage kits out there? Stock-like action, with a bit more feel when it pops in gear?
Or is fresh OEM as good as it gets, without going to a short shifter? M5 linkage or something? Bav Auto? Anything?

I just got a stainless UUC RK2 and noticed my shifter sags under the weight now, so I'm going to go out on a limb and guess it hasn't been refreshed in the 30 years / 198k miles.

[muleskinner]

I just had the Z3 1.9 shifter installed. It feels great. I had a UUC shifter on an old e30 years ago, and didn't like it at all....way to notchy.

Anyway, once it was installed, it would grind going into 5th while the car was moving. Turns out the Z3 1.9 shifter sits a little lower, so it caused slight selector rod friction (I want to say against the guibo, but am not sure) only when going into 5th. The good folks at http://germancarrepair.com/ga/bent the selector rod very slightly, and voila! now everything works great.

[briangelc]

I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!

[Sam 84, 533i]

I'm trying to remember if I had to cut one or both but it is 10 in the first sheetmetal pic and 19 in the second. They won't fit over the lever so you make one cut with a very sharp knife and the slip it on. You won't ever know it was cut once it's installed.

Those of you running a z3 shifter on a sheet metal console; What did you guys do about #8 metal spring perch spacer? As far as the #10 lower cup, I think I will just cut it. I cant figure out how I can pull the snap ring to separate the two halves of the old shifter to reuse #8 even if I get it, will it slip over the new shifter knob side? I might be able to separate the z3m knob if I throw it in a vise but I doubt it. It has a rubber core holding it together.

It looks like I will have to cut both levers in half so I can get #8 off old one and install it and the upper cup without cutting those.

Thanks

[Vinox]

Hey guys. I'm considering a Z3 1.9 conversion on my 1987 M535i. I suppose I have the aluminium console? And do I really need all the parts marked yellow, or is that more a "once you're in there, might as well". Just asking because I probably will replace all of it, but I don't know to what extent things are required to make the conversion work. Thanks!

[Shawn D.]

Hey guys. I'm considering a Z3 1.9 conversion on my 1987 M535i. I suppose I have the aluminium console? And do I really need all the parts marked yellow, or is that more a "once you're in there, might as well". Just asking because I probably will replace all of it, but I don't know to what extent things are required to make the conversion work. Thanks!

I dunno, do you suppose you have the aluminium console? Why are you asking us if you suppose something?

You do have said console. Don't be a cheap-ass -- go ahead and get all the parts, which are likely worn out.

[Owndapwn]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing

Well, I can't seem to get the shift selector seal out. It was old (Duh) and had some oil on the selector.
I've been picking at it for the past hour or so and I think I've actually pushed it further in. So I'm going to do the smart thing and take a break and get some outside views.
Any tips would be great. Preferably quick ones. It's 60F today and my garage is not heated.


ALSO
This was linked in another thread that was linked in this one, but it's worth having here.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techart ... shings.htm
Could be the best guide for this repair.

[davintosh]

Most people just push the new selector seal in on top of the old one; there's apparently room in there for multiples, and it doesn't hurt anything having two. That's what I did on mine, and no leaks, no problems.

[LarryM]

I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!

In the process of gathering parts for my 5-speed swap, I've seen several used gearshift linkages and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason which direction the shift rod faces (drivers or passenger side). Does it really matter in terms of function, as long as the shift rod has clearance under the sheet metal support?

[davintosh]

I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!

In the process of gathering parts for my 5-speed swap, I've seen several used gearshift linkages and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason which direction the shift rod faces (drivers or passenger side). Does it really matter in terms of function, as long as the shift rod has clearance under the sheet metal support?

It's mentioned somewhere, either in this or another thread, that the RealOEM diagram shows the shift rod positioned on the wrong side. As far as function is concerned, it shouldn't matter, but it does matter with regard to how the rod fits in the space available and what other bits might interfere with it, as Larry discovered.

[Owndapwn]

If you're referring to item 10 on the sheet, yes, at least on the aluminum console in the 535i with a guibo with a Z3 SSK, if installed as on the diagrams, it pushes into the guibo and you can't shift most gears.
I installed mine upside down, and it cleared just fine, and shifts perfectly.

Also, I'm loving the Z3 shifter (PN: 25117527252) with the UUC Delrin carrier bearings (Round, off ebay, for like $10). Paired with the stainless UUC RK2, it's very satisfying. Solid and crisp, but not too far away from stock-like. Feels like a stock Porsche 996 Turbo. Rev-matching down to first and second is now possible, though that's because the rear bushing (#8) was basically missing.
So if you're not sure if you want an SSK, I say go for it. Will do on all future cars, for sure.

[CrustyE]

Shameless thread necro, but is anybody running the Z3 2.8 shift lever in their ETA? I just picked up a lever from a '98 Z3 2.8 for pennies from work to go into my '86 ETA. How long does installation usually take with the car on a rack/full shop tools?

[Owndapwn]

Shameless thread necro, but is anybody running the Z3 2.8 shift lever in their ETA? I just picked up a lever from a '98 Z3 2.8 for pennies from work to go into my '86 ETA. How long does installation usually take with the car on a rack/full shop tools?

Same shifter as what I've got.
Assuming you have all the parts needed the first time around, probably three hours (Four without a lift/pit) if you drop the driveshaft and exhaust, and I'd guess between thirty and one-hundred labour hours if you leave it up.
Mine took two weeks because I forgot the carrier bushings (Which I replaced with UUC's delrin bushings) and had to wait a week to get them in, and another week because I noticed my reverse switch wire was almost missing completely.

[LarryM]

Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the “Stop Buffer” (Item #10, part #25111204422) through the holes in items #9 and #12? Holy %@*& that thing is a tight fit! I’ve tried lubricating it with some WD40 and when that failed I lathered it with synthetic grease. Still can’t get it through the holes and I’m worried about tearing it. I’m working on a bench; I can’t even imagine how tough it would be trying to get it in with the shifter support in the car!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0145

In a post above, "derrith" said that using part #13711259818 (a rubber bushing used for the air filter housing) in place of item #10 works out well; it’s much easier to install (it just bolts in) and is allegedly less prone to failure. I’ve purchased one as a backup but it’s about ¾” shorter than item #10; not sure how well that would work out. I could also fabricate something if necessary, but I’d prefer to have the factory-designed setup using item #10 if possible. Is there any good way to get it in?

[davintosh]

Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the “Stop Buffer” (Item #10, part #25111204422) through the holes in items #9 and #12? Holy %@*& that thing is a tight fit! I’ve tried lubricating it with some WD40 and when that failed I lathered it with synthetic grease. Still can’t get it through the holes and I’m worried about tearing it. I’m working on a bench; I can’t even imagine how tough it would be trying to get it in with the shifter support in the car!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0145

In a post above, "derrith" said that using part #13711259818 (a rubber bushing used for the air filter housing) in place of item #10 works out well; it’s much easier to install (it just bolts in) and is allegedly less prone to failure. I’ve purchased one as a backup but it’s about ¾” shorter than item #10; not sure how well that would work out. I could also fabricate something if necessary, but I’d prefer to have the factory-designed setup using item #10 if possible. Is there any good way to get it in?

I replaced that on my 528e (years ago) and don't remember it being all that difficult to get in (I do remember a few others that drove me crazy though!) Have you tried a little hand sanitizer or something else to slick them up to slide through?

[Tiit]

I'm doing z3 shifter conversion and bushing replacement at the moment. New genuine bmw gearshift rod joint ( part number 25117501309) from pelican,has slop in the bushing. Hole in the bushing is oval 10mm by 11mm which is not much better than the old worn one came out. That can't be right can it? I thought I'd ask you guys before complain to Pelican.

[Shawn D.]

I'm doing z3 shifter conversion and bushing replacement at the moment. New genuine bmw gearshift rod joint ( part number 25117501309) from pelican,has slop in the bushing. Hole in the bushing is oval 10mm by 11mm which is not much better than the old worn one came out. That can't be right can it? I thought I'd ask you guys before complain to Pelican.

That's right. If you were to do a motion analysis of the linkage, you'd see it's necessary, as the arc the shifter moves in side-to-side causes the front pin to angle in that knuckle. If that hole were not oval, it would bind.

[demetk]

Wow. All this time I thought my new joint was defective as well and decided not to use it. On a side note, I have found that the later symmetric joints (e34) don't seem to have that oval.

[N44RP]

anyone replace this part : https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-be ... 5111220707

with the one from garagistic?
https://store.garagistic.com/e30-rear-s ... 5111220707

[EE TWO EIGHT]

Ok, two questions. How do zI know which console I have in my 1985 E28 535i so I know what to order. AND, is a 1984~ E30 shifter set up the same as an E28 set up? I ask because a buddy has an entire short shift kit with bushings, clips, shifter and everything he is no longer in need of because his car got stolen after he ordered all the parts.