Well, I’ve bought an e28 and am learning stick at 34 haha

[Freight]

Hey yall, just wanted to introduce myself. I’ve just purchased an 86, black on cardinal red 535i in really nice driver shape. It’s a 5 speed, with a factory LSD, and I’m stoked to finally have a manual, red leather 80s BMW. Years back, my first car was an e30, followed by a stunning black on black e24. Both automatics - I was a teenager/early 20s, cut me some slack - but both were in gorgeous condition and selling them was a grave mistake. The e24 is my true love, but a sedan is more practical and affordable at this point. Can’t put the dog in the backseat of a shark. I reckon this e28 may give the e24 a run for its money as my all time favorite car. Time will tell!

The interior is fantastic, minus a couple little dash things like a dead window switch bulb, a missing blank switch delete, and a dead OBC. The screen displays nothing(I checked carefully) and all the lights are dead, buttons and screen, while the rest of the dash is fully illuminated…a little sus which makes me think the OBC itself is dead.

Mechanically, the car is extremely well sorted as well. The owner before me was 84, and has had it looked after fastidiously by a very very good BMW specialist here on Long Island(NY). Anything the mechanic suggested be done as preventative maintenance, as well as general repair, has been done for the last 25+ years. The AC even works. That said, it’s apparent now that he only put a couple hundred to a couple thousand miles on the car every year for the last few years, and it’s probably not seen over 3000rpm in years. It’s due for an Italian tune up, some seafoam, and it’s running cold. I seem to remember from my past BMWs of this era that the temp needle doesn’t sit dead center when at the correct temp, instead sitting a bit left of center? Mine sits like 1/3rd of the way to the right, so tomorrow I’m gonna toss a thermostat in it. Shifters a little sloppy too, and there’s the characteristic dead center play in the steering. Not as bad as I remember my e24 was, but it may be time to adjust the box a little and see if that tightens it up(and pray it’s not the dreaded steering box problem). As soon as spring weather arrives I’ll do the steering box reinforcement sleeve preemptively. I’ve gotta say, it’s a bit comical and nerve wracking learning to drive stick at 34, especially being familiar with the constant hyper vigilance for any problematic new sounds and feelings that everyone who drives an old car is familiar with. Only stalled it twice tonight, which I reckon is pretty solid for having only driven stick 2-3 times, 15+ years ago haha

Really stoked to be back in an 80s BMW, and to cross the e28 off the list. It’s great to see this forum still alive and well, the wealth of knowledge here, and on bigcoupe, is literally priceless. Are there any other long islanders here? If anyone’s got a black shift boot that isn’t squeaky available, and some tips on how to secure a shift knob that no longer stays put, gimme a shout! I’m hesitant to glue it for fear I’ll hate myself should I decide to replace it.

[1st 5er]

Welcome to the 3rd Pedal club.
That pedal is the best theft deterrent of the 21st century.

[tig]

Good on ya, and welcome to the insanity!

Can’t put the dog in the backseat of a shark. I reckon this e28 may give the e24 a run for its money as my all time favorite car. Time will tell!

That's ok. E24s are E28 parts cars anyway .

...and it’s running cold. I seem to remember from my past BMWs of this era that the temp needle doesn’t sit dead center when at the correct temp, instead sitting a bit left of center? Mine sits like 1/3rd of the way to the right

You are not running cold.

From: https://wiki.mye28.com/index.php/How_Do ... e_Gauge%3F

[Freight]

Good on ya, and welcome to the insanity!

Can’t put the dog in the backseat of a shark. I reckon this e28 may give the e24 a run for its money as my all time favorite car. Time will tell!

That's ok. E24s are E28 parts cars anyway .

...and it’s running cold. I seem to remember from my past BMWs of this era that the temp needle doesn’t sit dead center when at the correct temp, instead sitting a bit left of center? Mine sits like 1/3rd of the way to the right

You are not running cold.

From: https://wiki.mye28.com/index.php/How_Do ... e_Gauge%3F

Hey hey hey, the e24 may be a 5er when naked but that’s okay! They’re the prettiest coupe BMW ever made(e9s can fight me), and Anyway I’m almost certain there’s a country famous for having people dolled up on the outside but a surprise when naked, and old men worldwide love them

I hadn’t even realized there was a wiki here - I’ve just been sifting through the threads. Good to know. I’ll sit down with the manual tonight, there’s a lot I’ve forgotten over the years no doubt. With no need to touch the thermostat, today I’ll try to locate this OBC relay/fuse situation behind the kick panel and see if I can’t get mine working. Can do that with the heat blowing, unlike the thermostat

[tig]

I hadn’t even realized there was a wiki here - I’ve just been sifting through the threads. Good to know. I’ll sit down with the manual tonight, there’s a lot I’ve forgotten over the years no doubt. With no need to touch the thermostat, today I’ll try to locate this OBC relay/fuse situation behind the kick panel and see if I can’t get mine working. Can do that with the heat blowing, unlike the thermostat

The Wiki is brand new. Just went live yesterday!

[stuartinmn]

Welcome to the site. If the display backlight bulbs are burned out the display will be blank, but you should still be able to see it slightly under bright sunlight or with a flashlight. Make sure that isn't the case with yours. Replacement lights with LEDs are available, or if you're handy with a soldering iron you can retrofit yours with LEDs.

[Freight]

Welcome to the site. If the display backlight bulbs are burned out the display will be blank, but you should still be able to see it slightly under bright sunlight or with a flashlight. Make sure that isn't the case with yours. Replacement lights with LEDs are available, or if you're handy with a soldering iron you can retrofit yours with LEDs.

It’s totally dead unfortunately. I checked the screen to be sure. I’m going to pull it and hook it up to a bench top power supply to determine if the OBC itself is dead, and check the bulbs. That’ll let me know if there’s something causing it to not get power. The car needed new horns recently, they were “missing”, which makes me wonder if someone screwed up the OBC security system and pulled the horns trying to silence the alarm. The ignition lock is also different from the doors, and while the previous owner wasn’t an idiot, he bought it in 95 so the original owner had ten years to do something stupid, and he said that the guy he got it from hadn’t been the smartest owner. If I’m lucky maybe the guy disconnected the OBC.

[Mike W.]

Temp gauges do/should sit a bit right of center, but will move up and down some according to ambient temps and loads, but I've also found thermostats often get tired with age and open early.

The horns ironically, if removed for that reason, unfortunately have nothing to do with the OBC and it's alarm, it's a separate one.

Best advice for learning to drive a stick I've heard is to find a deserted parking lot, usually on a Sunday, government facilities are often ideal, and practice starting out without giving it any gas, just feathering the clutch pedal. If it's reasonably flat it can be done and will quickly give you a feel for it.

[Aldo525]

Temp gauges do/should sit a bit right of center, but will move up and down some according to ambient temps and loads, but I've also found thermostats often get tired with age and open early.

The horns ironically, if removed for that reason, unfortunately have nothing to do with the OBC and it's alarm, it's a separate one.

Best advice for learning to drive a stick I've heard is to find a deserted parking lot, usually on a Sunday, government facilities are often ideal, and practice starting out without giving it any gas, just feathering the clutch pedal. If it's reasonably flat it can be done and will quickly give you a feel for it.

Hello, here is an old thread about OBC's not working in a 85´535i....but the first check I'll do is to remove the instruments cluster and check if the yellow plug connector is well positioned. That yellow plug is related to the OBC.

viewtopic.php?t=110791

[vinceg101]

Welcome to the Funny Farm,
When was the last time a full Cooling System replacement was done? By that I mean everything (Thermostat & housing, sensors, belts, hoses & clamps, water pump, bottle & cap, and most importantly a block flush). Having owned an E24 I'm sure your familiar with the Cooling System issues in the M30 engines. Do some research on the brand of radiator (I prefer and swear by Nissens now that Behr changed their design).

On the temp issues (we will call them that but as tig says, you're likely running about where you should be), the temp gauge, as well as other instruments in the cluster, they lose accuracy as the SI board ages (failing solder joints, leaking batteries, etc.) and/or bad grounds cause big issues. In short, sometimes the temp & fuel gauges aren't necessarily 100% accurate. Testing the engine temps with an infrared temp sensor on the block (or T-Stat housing) is the most accurate way to determine the actual engine temps. Use these readings to compare to those in the above temp gauge diagram to see if your gauge is reasonably accurate.

The best thing to do is remove the steering wheel and pull the cluster out (be sure to keep track of all the connections and where they go.) The good thing about the E28 is that this procedure is WAAYYY easier than doing it in the E24. You can then remove the cluster, take the back off and check the condition of the SI board and more importantly the state of the batteries. If they're original, then they're likely leaking on the board. The best course of action is to replace it with a new battery-less board; Ivo Christov sells these and they're an easy repair/upgrade (I think Programma makes one also?)

The next best thing to do in this regard is to check, clean and re-tighten all the ground wire connections behind the cluster, under the dash and in the steering wheel column. Yes this means removing the lower dash kick panel (the worst part in the E28; note the window lock-out breaker and cabin temp sensor connections) as well as the steering column lower cover (easy). Drop the Cruise Control bracket under the light switch and you get a lot more access down there.

I'm going through some engine temp issues myself trying to get to the bottom of it so I'm right there with you.

[Freight]

The way I said where my temp gauge sit was a bit confusing looking back at it. It sits around 1/3 of the way, starting from the cold side. So definitely running cold.

I’m about to pull the cluster for the OBC, potentially address the SI board, and will revisit the temp situation once that’s done. I have a thermostat on the way regardless, so no big deal either way.

[Blue Shadow]

pulling the gauges, note the position of the connector(s) that plug into the board on the bottom of the speedometer. Most get those wrong and cruise stops working. The one for cruise goes in with the wire against the cluster, opposite of expectations.

The correct position of the temp gauge needle in a properly running cooling system is the 180°F position shown for cars using the stock 80°C thermostat (176°F)

Welcome to the 3rd Pedal club.
That pedal is the best theft deterrent of the 21st century.

It is also a distracted driver correction. Can't be txtg when shifting and such.

Best advice for learning to drive a stick I've heard is to find a deserted parking lot, usually on a Sunday, government facilities are often ideal, and practice starting out without giving it any gas, just feathering the clutch pedal. If it's reasonably flat it can be done and will quickly give you a feel for it.

I learned in hilly Knoxville, TN by asking my roommate if I could borrow his car. He asked if I knew how to drive a clutch, just answered sure and off I went. Would have learned on my dad's commuter convertible but my older brother ripped the linkage or trans out of the car and it was traded in just before I was driving age.

[vinceg101]

Best advice for learning to drive a stick I've heard is to find a deserted parking lot, usually on a Sunday, government facilities are often ideal, and practice starting out without giving it any gas, just feathering the clutch pedal. If it's reasonably flat it can be done and will quickly give you a feel for it.

One the best tips for learning standard was to do it bare footed (at least your clutch foot). While not exactly safe, it was the best way to get a visceral feel of where the release & contact point was on the clutch. Being able to feel that vibration directly into the muscle was very informative.

That and having a friend's 1981 VW Rabbit helped too; it didn't matter much you did to it. I swore that if you could drive a standard VW you could drive any standard transmission.

[Freight]

Best advice for learning to drive a stick I've heard is to find a deserted parking lot, usually on a Sunday, government facilities are often ideal, and practice starting out without giving it any gas, just feathering the clutch pedal. If it's reasonably flat it can be done and will quickly give you a feel for it.

One the best tips for learning standard was to do it bare footed (at least your clutch foot). While not exactly safe, it was the best way to get a visceral feel of where the release & contact point was on the clutch. Being able to feel that vibration directly into the muscle was very informative.

That and having a friend's 1981 VW Rabbit helped too; it didn't matter much you did to it. I swore that if you could drive a standard VW you could drive any standard transmission.

Funny you mention a friends rabbit. I have a buddy who had a rabbit of the same generation who said it was the only stick he’s ever had that he’d stall even years after driving it. Said that if someone could drive his rabbit, they could drive any manual on earth.


This is roughly where my needle sits.



On to the OBC…pulled the cluster and it looks like programa(spelling?) did the SI board at some point. Not surprised, the mechanic who looked after the car is good about suggesting work like that be done. That said, the OBC connector was flat out unplugged. With the cluster out, I turned the car on to ACC and the OBC didn’t light up. I’ve got it on my bench right now, gonna take it apart and run power to it. The sticker is already cut so I someone has already been in here and done something. The programming chip cover is also broken, so I’m not the first person in here.

[vinceg101]

3/8's is right where you want the engine temp gauge to be. Also, keep in mind it's winter right now so the ambient atmospheric temperature is a lot colder than say July or August. I would hazard a guess that if this were middle of August, that gauge would be reading 1/2 to 9/16's.
Turn on the AC sitting in traffic and watch where it goes (that is more a warm season test). Also when you get it to operating temps, kick the heat on full and watch to see if the gauge drops lower (it should as it pulls the engine heat out).

Yes, that is almost verbatim what my friend said about his Rabbit when I got behind the wheel. I still couldn't get my first standard car ('77 Toyota Celica) into my driveway when I drove it home some years later (it was on a hill). That drive home down a mountain from the neighboring town was 'interesting' (terrifying more like).
My father had to pull it into the driveway; he hadn't driven a standard in decades but pulled that car in smooth as silk. I wanted to slap him.

What part of NY are you in?

[Freight]

I’m on Long Island. Nassau county.

Yesterday was unseasonably warm, so I’ll have to wait till a cold day to verify the temperature situation. I didn’t have the heat on, nor the ac, as it was a gorgeous 50*.

I’m baffled as to how BMW managed to solder these bulbs in the OBC backlight. The metal leads on the bulbs are stainless or some other “non-solderable” material, and cold joints are unavoidable. Makes me wonder how many people’s bulbs were actually fine, and the joints are just shot.

[Blue Shadow]

You mean the lights in the light bar?  I have refreshed about 100 or more of these and have about 7 bulbs that are not burnt out.  I do not remember seeing any bad solder joints on these bulbs.  This for the original light bars of normal phenolic board material and some white board material.  

[e28Sean]

Welcome to the forums, dude.   And good on you for learning to drive a proper car (i.e. one with three pedals).

[Freight]

Welcome to the forums, dude.   And good on you for learning to drive a proper car (i.e. one with three pedals).

Cheers man. It’s been something I’ve wanted to do for a long time, but saw no point if it wasn’t to have another vintage bimmer. But the stars aligned and here I am. About to drive to Scranton tomorrow through Friday George Washington Bridge traffic - should be…fun.

yep, but on second thought, someone else had already done it. That said, their cold joints were due to poor technique and lack of flux. My joints were still poor, as anyone’s will be as the leads are not solder compatible, but they’re likely to last a long time. Just took really dumping solder in and cranking heat into the leads to half assed tin them first. I’d love to know if stock bulbs used different leads, but the modern ones are steel and steel doesn’t solder. Turned out there are others in electronics forums asking the same question about soldering halogen bulbs, with the answer being not really, sprinkled throughout the net.

[Blue Shadow]

 Turned out there are others in electronics forums asking the same question about soldering halogen bulbs, with the answer being not really, sprinkled throughout the net.

The OBC light bar has regular incandescent bulbs and I don't know of a halogen replacement, haven't looked.  RadioShack used to sell the electrically correct bulbs but I use LEDs in almost every Light bar I repair.  These don't dim as much as the light bulbs do when dimming the dial lights but the OBC is readable in the daytime with the lights on which the replacement bulbs would not allow due to limited brightness.  

[Freight]

 Turned out there are others in electronics forums asking the same question about soldering halogen bulbs, with the answer being not really, sprinkled throughout the net.

The OBC light bar has regular incandescent bulbs and I don't know of a halogen replacement, haven't looked.  RadioShack used to sell the electrically correct bulbs but I use LEDs in almost every Light bar I repair.  These don't dim as much as the light bulbs do when dimming the dial lights but the OBC is readable in the daytime with the lights on which the replacement bulbs would not allow due to limited brightness.  

Mmm they may have originally but now are all halogen, or the internet mistaken lists modern ones as halogen? They’re 2721 t1.5 size bulbs I do believe? 

[Blue Shadow]

you must be talking about the backlight for the numbers not the display.  The display is lit by the light bar part number 3, the part I have repaired a pile of.  
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

The unit face, numbers and all is lit by a single bulb.  

[Freight]

you must be talking about the backlight for the numbers not the display.  The display is lit by the light bar part number 3, the part I have repaired a pile of.  
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

The unit face, numbers and all is lit by a single bulb.  

I’m talking about the backlight module for the screen. The two bulbs on the tan pcb, on the white carrier

[Blue Shadow]

Those are simple to fix. Put in LEDs or the proper RadioShack lamp which is hard to find now. I probably have one with light bulbs and a few with LEDs sitting in my box of parts to repair them. 

I don’t solder stuff that doesn’t solder well. I change it so it accepts solder. 

[Freight]

I repaired mine, both bulbs were still good. When it goes, I will convert it to LED.

[e28Sean]

Mien has been dead for a bit.  I need to LED-ify it.