Toasted the head gasket today. Getting some ARP's and a MLS from Todd. I'll post some pics once the head is off. Got a little more work to do tomorrow evening before its off.
I'm debating on doing some upgrades to the head while it's off. However, time and budget are a factor since its my DD.
Well everyone else is doing it... Update 5/11
Well everyone else is doing it... Update 5/11
Last edited by clongo on Apr 11, 2012 9:22 PM, edited 5 times in total.
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grey ghost
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- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Falls Church VA
next week. I'm not positive the timing is going to work out. I'll be unhappy if I don't attend, I'll pout for days. 
The immediate symptom is coolant loss due to over-pressurization of the cooling system. Sometimes its enough to trigger the level sensor and give you a check control warning. If the engine is run with a blown head gasket overheating usually starts shortly afterward.
How much boost were you running when this occurred?
How much boost were you running when this occurred?
Started to overheat. Pulled off the highway and found the coolant level in the expansion tank up to the top of the tank. The upper rad hose was rock solid too.wkohler wrote:What happens?Jeremy wrote:On a turbo m30, it's usually pretty obvious.wkohler wrote:What is the sign you get when you "toast" the headgasket? Is it pretty obvious?
I did a pull on the highway and felt the car jerk twice for a split second. I let off immediately after I felt it but it was too late. I'm running 15psi intercooled with meth.
Update!
Got the front timing cover off getting ready to pull the head and found the timing chain guides in not so good shape. So now I'll be towing the car to my work so I can pull the motor on Saturday and do a complete reseal. Still have pulled the head since it will be much easier to do on a engine stand. Hopefully the internals are in good shape (crossing fingers) so this doesn't turn into a expensive build!
Got the front timing cover off getting ready to pull the head and found the timing chain guides in not so good shape. So now I'll be towing the car to my work so I can pull the motor on Saturday and do a complete reseal. Still have pulled the head since it will be much easier to do on a engine stand. Hopefully the internals are in good shape (crossing fingers) so this doesn't turn into a expensive build!
Because I would have to pull the lower timing cover to install the guides. And I have a oil pan leaking and would like to weld in my oil return fitting because it also seeps.
It only takes 30 min to pull the trans. After that I only have to unbolt the engine mounts and the motor is out of the car. It will make life a lot easier re sealing it on a stand. Plus I get to paint it and make it all pretty
It only takes 30 min to pull the trans. After that I only have to unbolt the engine mounts and the motor is out of the car. It will make life a lot easier re sealing it on a stand. Plus I get to paint it and make it all pretty
I keep hearing that (Todd), lol. Pending the head being removed and everything looking ok inside the motor, its only going to get a complete reseal and cleanup of the exterior. The motor ran great prior to losing the head gasket. I wont/cant to get too involved in a full engine build. I just want a nice reliable setup that will get me to the 350-400whp range. I think with the ARP's, MLS, and standalone that shouldnt be too big of a issue. I guess i will be one of the first to see what a upgraded K27 can really do on a B34.Duke wrote:It’s a long slippery slope and you are sliding down at a rapid rate.clongo wrote:It only takes 30 min to pull the trans. After that I only have to unbolt the engine mounts and the motor is out of the car.
Yeah, i kept mine at 15psi and even then i think i was pushing it. I'm pretty excited to see what the upgraded unit can do with proper engine management.turbodan wrote:Thats pretty amazing since the stock 745i K27 can't move enough air mass to support that kind of boost without running unbelieveably high intake air temps.
I guess if thats what you want to do. I never pull the pan for timing covers. to much work.
personal experience with the k27-60 upgrade. big improvement. spool time is better and last a whole lot longer. finally got mine running right last night. turned it to 20psi to see what it would do. kinda nuts. right now its back to 16psi. still stupid but I havent had the time to really change the VE table for the larger intercooler and 20psi that Im shotting for.
personal experience with the k27-60 upgrade. big improvement. spool time is better and last a whole lot longer. finally got mine running right last night. turned it to 20psi to see what it would do. kinda nuts. right now its back to 16psi. still stupid but I havent had the time to really change the VE table for the larger intercooler and 20psi that Im shotting for.
If the oil pan wasnt leaking and the oil drain was right i would probably do it in car. However i think this would be easier since the trans comes out so easy.BATESY wrote:I guess if thats what you want to do. I never pull the pan for timing covers. to much work.
personal experience with the k27-60 upgrade. big improvement. spool time is better and last a whole lot longer. finally got mine running right last night. turned it to 20psi to see what it would do. kinda nuts. right now its back to 16psi. still stupid but I havent had the time to really change the VE table for the larger intercooler and 20psi that Im shotting for.
I'm glad you like your upgraded turbo. My car felt really quick with the stock K27 at 15psi. So i'm hoping to see a big improvement with this turbo. Plus i will hopefully get some of my gas mileage back as i could never get it to run quite right off boost. It always ran around 13.0-13.5 AFR during partial throttle out of boost. Were you able to log IAT's at 20psi?