MyE28.com DEV

The rotor hats still look pretty presentable. Is that just silver paint?

Adam W in MN wrote:The rotor hats still look pretty presentable. Is that just silver paint?

Don't think so.

cek wrote:

Adam W in MN wrote:The rotor hats still look pretty presentable. Is that just silver paint?

Don't think so.

They look zinc plated to me (see inside the vanes).

@ 14192 miles on the motor I did the first valve adjustment today. It didn't seem noisy at all, but I was really curious to pull the valve cover and "they say" do it every 15k...

Looks great:


I only had to make minor tweaks to 5 of the valves. A few were slightly tight (0.011" would barely go in) and a few were slightly loose (0.013" slipped in).

All cam surfaces look great.





Also made sure the banjo bolts were there and tight.

Purrs like a kitten.

UCABs are shot.



Just ordered some new arms with UCABS installed from Mr. Moosehead.

Question: Can the "other end" of the UCAs with the ball joint be replaced?

Went back in my records and the control arms and pitman arm were replaced by the PO at 169k, which was about 2k before I bought it.

My new Lemforder lower arms and Moosehead upper's came this week, along with a new pitman arm.


Getting the old arms off was easy because of this:


The only trouble I had getting things back together was because it was non-obvious (to me) how to keep the ball joint bolts from turning when trying to put on the new nylon nuts. Thanks to Paul Moosehead Muskopf for the pro-tip of using a huge set of channel locks to apply some pressure so the taper would catch.


The old lower control arms are fine, but I'm replacing them anyway. The uppers were totally shot.



The ball joints on these uppers seem fine, so I may press the bushings out and put new Mooseys in and use them on Maytag.

Getting the left side on was far easier than getting the right side, but that's really because I had done it once and realized the order of assembly matters...








After double and triple checking that everything was torqued correctly, I went for a nice shakedown drive. I'm pleasantly surprised that the Moosehead bushings are not harsh, at all. I sorta expected more harshness. I now will have no qualms putting these on Maytag.

Car drives even more brilliantly than it did before...

Nice. You probably know this already, but don't forget that you shouldn't torque the inboard bushings until after the car is resting back down on its suspension and the front suspension is fully loaded. If you torque the inboard bushings when the front wheels are hanging down, you lock the "inside" part rotated into the wrong position, causing the rubber to get badly twisted when the car rests back down under weight. (And if this was discussed already in this thread, I apologize ... it's 57 pages long!)

There's no rubber in either arm.

cek wrote:

Just FYI, you can still get the drivers side lock assemblies new off of eBay. I bought this one.

With a bit of patience, you can swap all the tumblers from your old unit into the new unit, so that your original key will work in the new lock.

wkohler wrote:There's no rubber in either arm.

This. Preloading is not required with Moosehead's UCA bushings.

Hi man.

I am just respect you with your workout. I also have e28 M535i DC71(VIN:0641309). I also want to start restoration of it. And i will happy to talk with you about it. I have alredy read all your topics and also looked flickr photos. +99 (450) 645 00 90 this is my phone number, and whatsapp number also. Skype : mamedov-91 Please pm me where you can.

cek wrote:

wkohler wrote:There's no rubber in either arm.

This. Preloading is not required with Moosehead's UCA bushings.

TIL. Probably safer if I just stay in the garage and off the internet.

Sabier wrote:Hi man.

I am just respect you with your workout. I also have e28 M535i DC71(VIN:0641309). I also want to start restoration of it. And i will happy to talk with you about it. I have alredy read all your topics and also looked flickr photos. +99 (450) 645 00 90 this is my phone number, and whatsapp number also. Skype : mamedov-91 Please pm me where you can.

Thanks for the kind words.

However I'm pretty much against talking to other people on the phone.

I'll happily discuss stuff with you here though. Ask away.

cek wrote:

Sabier wrote:Hi man.

I am just respect you with your workout. I also have e28 M535i DC71(VIN:0641309). I also want to start restoration of it. And i will happy to talk with you about it. I have alredy read all your topics and also looked flickr photos. +99 (450) 645 00 90 this is my phone number, and whatsapp number also. Skype : mamedov-91 Please pm me where you can.

Thanks for the kind words.

However I'm pretty much against talking to other people on the phone.

I'll happily discuss stuff with you here though. Ask away.

You are welcome) I didn't ask for talking on phone. I asked for chatting on phone. I don't like talking too.

I love the Moosehead CAB's. One of the top three changes I've made to the e28.

carlb wrote:I love the Moosehead CAB's. One of the top three changes I've made to the e28.

After a week of driving, I have to agree. Paul has done all E28 owners a great service in developing and selling these.

I just moved a set into new UCAs on my E34 after 116k miles. Races were still perfect. Took them apart, cleaned and re-greased.

The 109k csi probably has all original bushings in it. It's solid as-is, but there's some shimmy in the steering over good size bumps.

Mooseheads are on my list.

Changed the oil a few weeks back. Other than Blackstone mis-reading my horrible hand writing (82 instead of 87) I couldn't be happier about this:

This is awesome. It took a few days to get through this, but it was fun to catch up. I learned about the ball joints too, but used my floor jack, channel locks seems much more... portable! What is this Blackstone labs report? Oil content to diagnose wear and tear?

My son & I (and the stupid little mutt named Coco) picked Vlad up from the PO in Santa Barbara, CA and started the drive to Seattle four years ago this week...

Ta-da:




The a little epoxy and some F4 tape to keep the moisture out.

And they work:
[/quote]

Charlie, just read this thread. Very cool! I did something very similar with the euro turn signals yesterday. The plug behind the newly modified turn signals does not have enough room to fit back into the valance due to the metal behind it. Looks like the battery box. Did you encounter the same issue and how did you handle it? The speed academy tutorial suggested hammering the metal back to make room for the turn signal.

Rob

I used a hammer. Not very elegant to say the least. I would have done something else, but had a time constraint to get it in the road.

I also would like to know how Charlie addressed.

Having to do something like that makes this mod a no-no for me.

wkohler wrote:Having to do something like that makes this mod a no-no for me.

Yeah I'd prefer not to as well. I rather figure something else out with the wiring on the back of the indicator. I'll start over with new turns if I have to. It looked to me like there wasn't enough room for the euro indicators even without swapping over the U.S. bulb housing. I'm probably wrong but I got the U.S. bulb housing down in the indicator housing pretty far and it is about an inch off. Is the battery box different on euro cars? Or the unmodified euro turns must fit in nice and snug.

russellrh72 wrote:

wkohler wrote:Having to do something like that makes this mod a no-no for me.

Yeah I'd prefer not to as well. I rather figure something else out with the wiring on the back of the indicator. I'll start over with new turns if I have to. It looked to me like there wasn't enough room for the euro indicators even without swapping over the U.S. bulb housing. I'm probably wrong but I got the U.S. bulb housing down in the indicator housing pretty far and it is about an inch off. Is the battery box different on euro cars? Or the unmodified euro turns must fit in nice and snug.

I don't remember exactly how I got it to fit, but I'm 100% sure I didn't modify any metal. I'll take a look when I get a chance, but I believe i probably further modified the connector.

I just did this exact mod. On the right side of the car, use a 2" metal cutter bit on your drill. Same on the left side. Make sure you remove the battery before you drill through on the left side or you'll have a hole in your battery. Ask me how I know.

muleskinner wrote:I just did this exact mod. On the right side of the car, use a 2" metal cutter bit on your drill. Same on the left side. Make sure you remove the battery before you drill through on the left side or you'll have a hole in your battery. Ask me how I know.

LMAO.

muleskinner wrote:I just did this exact mod. On the right side of the car, use a 2" metal cutter bit on your drill. Same on the left side. Make sure you remove the battery before you drill through on the left side or you'll have a hole in your battery. Ask me how I know.

any acid leak?