MyE28.com DEV

CJ bought me one of these things that makes it so you don't get water spots for Christmas. He's a great kid.

I gave it a try this morning and I like.


https://www.amazon.com/CR-Spotless-DIC- ... =ceklog-20

When I ran a chem lab we used one of those to generate DI water for all of our lab water. We had to change the ion exchange resin a couple times a month so we ended saving mucho dinero by buying in bulk. I think we used these guys:

https://www.resintech.com/ion-exchange-resins

I know, 300 gallons sounds like a lot, but you will find that you end up using that DI water for all kinds of things other than washing your car. Your coffee maker or espresso machine will never need cleaning again!

Fudge.

Clutch pedal went loose almost all the way to the floor this morning.

cek wrote:Fudge.

Clutch pedal went loose almost all the way to the floor this morning.

Well, that explains that.



I was going to inspect this as part of my "Inspection II" stuff that I started over the weekend.

Based on this, and reviewing the PO records, I'm replacing the master too (it was replaced at about 90K miles). Also going to install a SS hose since this one looks original.

We know now why Vlad's clutch was disengaging so close to the floor too...

cek wrote:CJ bought me one of these things that makes it so you don't get water spots for Christmas. He's a great kid.

Nice! Water spots make the worst Christmas gifts. I got some in a priority box one year.

It looks so good with the Alpina's on, perfect really.

• Alternator - Replace with reman unit as, unit I rebuilt puts out ~12V vs ~13.5 to 14.2 - DONE
• Oil change - ~7400 miles - DONE
• Swap wheels - because I"m bored with the RZs - DONE
• Replace transmission fluid (MT-90) - DONE
• Bleed clutch slave - Feels like air's in there - DISCOVERED SLAVE BAD. REPLACED.
• Replace clutch master and supply hose - DONE.
• ...
• Reinstall all the crap under kick panel.
• Fix kick panel and dash so screws actually do something holding it all together.
• Flush brake fluid - My records don't show when I did it last, but i know it was in last 2 years.
• Replace belts
• Other Inspection II stuff - I'm at 22k on the new M30B35

Put this stuff in. It's what I used before. The drain plug magnet had a fair amount of filings on it. Nothing dramatic, but it certainly was doing its job.


Wiped out after replacing the master. What a bitch. First there's taking off the kick panel and dealing with the fact that the screws that go into the dash no longer have any purchase. Then pulling the old master, slave, and hard line. It really helps having a lift and removing the suspension cross brace for getting to the clutch master hard-line connector.

I think this master is probably fine even though the boot is torn. I think I did that when I installed the pedal reinforcement kit. But it was last replaced according to the PO's records in 2001 @ about 90k miles. Or maybe I replaced it when I installed the reinforcement kit? I try to track everything I do in my little spreadsheet, but obviously miss stuff because I don't see where I installed the kit and I can't find it in this thread.

Then there's getting a new clutch supply-line hose installed. It is at BITCH getting one on to the nipple of the tank. I had to move the coolant overflow tank out of the way and then finagle some needle nose Vise-Grips onto the hose to get enough leverage to get it on the nipple.


Then I popped the supply line connector off the master as I was finagling it into place. It was another bitch getting it back on, but I persevered.


They DO still make slaves in metal. Yay.


Initially I put the new slave in upside down.


But I quickly realized it didn't look quite right and fixed it.

I have to ask why are you calling it a return line and overflow tank?
Thats the supply reservoir and line.

ElGuappo wrote:I have to ask why are you calling it a return line and overflow tank?
Thats the supply reservoir and line.

Because I am still jet lagged. Thanks for correcting me.

Good news, in addition to the oil analysis... Just did a test drive with the new clutch master, slave, and SS slave line and the clutch now disengages in the perfect place in the travel. No doubt the disengaging near the floor was due to the failing slave.

However the effing thing now has the same buzz under acceleration coming from the pedal area the Maytag has had since the 5speed swap. What in the world?!?!

Still need to replace belts and a few more things....

I had a vibration in my accelerator pedal once under full throttle and it was because my transmission cross member was falling out.

Are there any rubber bushings that could be missing / worn / perished / hard that are allowing transmission vibrations to be transmitted back to the bodywork? Just a thought.

Regards,

Mick

LeiseyJr wrote:I had a vibration in my accelerator pedal once under full throttle and it was because my transmission cross member was falling out.

LOL.

I tighted the clutch over-center spring some and that seemed to help. More driving today to futz with it.

Just flushed the brakes. I think I'm done except for putting the kick panel back together. I'm done enough that I feel totally comfortable finally resetting the service indicator light. It's critically important that you don't reset that until you are 100% sure you've done everything required.

FWIW, replacing the alternator with one that puts out the right voltage appears to have fixed my fuel gauge reading low.

Or something else, coincidentally, fixed it. I had planned on swapping out both the in-tank sender and cluster module, but now don't need to (for now).

cek wrote:

I kinda did the same thing when I had trouble bleeding the clutch on the 302 swap except I drilled a hole in the reservoir cap and installed a tire valve stem on it

Any Reason you decided not to go with the original FTE? Febi because its metal?

benloveless1 wrote:Any Reason you decided not to go with the original FTE? Febi because its metal?

Because metal. I doubt it actually matters though. I wish rebuild kits were still available.

Vlad got some love yesterday.

The fuel gauge has been wonky for a while. I had swapped senders and it didn't fix. I tested the senders and they were fine. So it was likely the gauge. My collection of clusters includes a low mileage (66k) Eta cluster that I was originally going to use as the base for Minerva. But I recently had Ivo build me a fresh cluster for Minerva. Thus I had no qualms stealing the gauge from this Eta unit.


Interestingly, Vlad's cluster is dated 9/89. The service records don't show any story of the cluster being replaced. I wonder when/why that was done.


Kick panel has been off for weeks, and will stay off until I can figure out the mysterious 'pedal box buzz' that I got going. Still no joy on that. Annoying as hell.


Prepped and painted one of @demetk's metal switch surrounds. THEN noticed this one is missing one screw hole. WTF, Demet?

That's what happens when you don't buy OEM parts Charlie!

Just kidding man. WTF is this pedal box buzz you speak of?

Spen wrote:That's what happens when you don't buy OEM parts Charlie!

Just kidding man. WTF is this pedal box buzz you speak of?

See: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=147301

cek wrote:Kick panel has been off for weeks, and will stay off until I can figure out the mysterious 'pedal box buzz' that I got going. Still no joy on that. Annoying as hell.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/JT8oCN][/url

I don’t know how much of this relates to you but a friend of mine had something similar to that happen and it seemed the source was from the input shaft on the transmission. It had the slightest amount of play and for some reason in caused a bit of a rattle/buzz. Maybe worth a look?

cek wrote:Kick panel has been off for weeks, and will stay off until I can figure out the mysterious 'pedal box buzz' that I got going. Still no joy on that. Annoying as hell.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/JT8oCN][/url

Could that be a cracked box?
How's the feel, from both foot and finger?

Did the XXX Burger event today. Got Vlad as clean as it's ever been to show off. Great event, saw good people there.





This i8 was pretty cool.



But not as cool as this M1.

Did you meet that guy Bill there? I think I may have sold him an engine too for his E9 coupe long ago. He did me a favor too and sold me a pile of crap on the deep discount. Anyway, your car looks brand new. Impressive detailing. I wanted to try the Rupes Nano iBrid whatever that all means, but it's a small area, I believe DA, that can really help bling up the areas on neglected cars that are hard to get with a standard size Makita, etc rotary buffer.

cek wrote:Did the XXX Burger event today. Got Vlad as clean as it's ever been to show off. Great event, saw good people there.





This i8 was pretty cool.



But not as cool as this M1.

Great showing Charlie.

leadphut wrote:the transition is so wonderful, that it's acted as my muse. here's a little poem i wrote to capture your 48 pages of work.

My previous owner named me Vlad
back then my condition was really not bad
here comes along my current nut-case
who carefully took me to a new, higher place
new ass, new shoes, new face, new paint
seems the only thing untouched was my original taint
this transition feels great, like the car i wanted to be
hopefully you'll accept me as i now feel free
please let there be no jealousy or hatin'
and from here on out please call me "Caitlyn"

Done.

I'm going to do a little paint correction on the hood before 5erWest so she got a little wash.


During my dry-off drive (Spotless water systems FTW) the low-beam check light came on.

Sure enough the Left side low-beam was out. Started digging in.

Spare bulb: Same problem.

Found that I got 11-12V on the low-beam pin (YL/RD wire) as long as the bulb wasn't plugged in. As soon as it was plugged in voltage dropped to 0.


Checked ground for ground fault and found no voltage... so that's not it. Noted that if I unplugged the Right bulb, the voltage on YL/RD and YL/GY was ~4V. Hmmm...

Out came the ETM. YL/RD circuit is pretty simple. From Fuse 3 to the "low beam check relay" to the bulb. Hmmm...


Couldn't remember where the "low beam check relay" was. This diagram helped.


Had a spare in junk harness. Swapped it.


Joy.


Glad this happened today and not Friday, eh Vince?

Better you than me. Given my stretch of dark luck this month, this would have turned into a new Alternator, ECU, Battery and half the relays.
Oh, and you still would have a check light on.

Caitlyn: No matter how much surgery and acts of social re-engineering you may go through, you will always be Vlad to me.

What Alpina's are those? I'm thinking about getting a set for my car. They look good.