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wkohler wrote:

cek wrote:

wkohler wrote:Why is the battery disconnect switch on the positive side? Was it used in NHRA events?

Ask the PO.

Well, it might be a good idea to move that to the negative terminal...

Of course, disconnect all the wires first.

Yea, I thought about doing it last night while I was in there, but was pooped. I'm curious about the WHY though. Is it because current actually flows from - to +? Always wondered this.

wkohler wrote:

cek wrote:

wkohler wrote:Why is the battery disconnect switch on the positive side? Was it used in NHRA events?

Ask the PO.

Well, it might be a good idea to move that to the negative terminal...

Why?

cek wrote:Before:


After:


After that:

You do nice work. Do you hire out?

davintosh wrote: You do nice work. Do you hire out?

Yea, just not for this ...

Now it idles perfectly.

Kudos CEK. I am thoroughly enjoying following this thread. Nice work.

Best,
Tim

P.S.,
OT here but I did notice your 911 under cover in the background. What's "his" name? My '87 Coupe doesn't have a name per se but I have referred to him as "Garage King" on a few occasions.

Tim in N FL wrote:Kudos CEK. I am thoroughly enjoying following this thread. Nice work.

Best,
Tim

p.s.,
OT here but I did notice your 911 under cover in the background. What's "his" name? My '87 Coupe doesn't have a name per se but I have referred to him as "Garage King" on a few occasions.

I almost always name my cars. But I've never come up with a name for the 911.

cek wrote:I almost always name my cars. But I've never come up with a name for the 911.

Yeah, I tend to keep names that my cars arrive with from POs but the 911 has simply remained "The 911" whenever it comes up in conversation.

BTW, your 911 site has been one of my favorites for sometime now. I didn't realize YOU were on this forum until 5-mins ago. Petrol Blue is one of the best colors for 911 of this era. I'll send you a link back-channel about my '87 sunroof coupe (grand prix white, linen).

Keep up the great work, Charlie. Nice to have you here on mye28. You belong here brother!

Tim

cek wrote:Now it idles perfectly.

Another one: your photos are public, so i looked at them.


That Micrososoft ID card rocks.

After watching your video I have that EXACT same idle problem. I am running to my car while writing this post to "pinch my hose" hehehe

Damn. Should have asked for a photo before I paid, but I was sold a M30 ICE, not one for an M20.

Any way this can be made to work?

Nein.

Blarg. Oh, well. Penny with hole is working well until I can find another.

On another topic, I removed the felt padding glued to the trunk floor as it was moldy. I'm wondering what to replace it with. Who sells material like that? I want something between the metal and the carpet cover I don't yet have yet either.

cek wrote:On another topic, I removed the felt padding glued to the trunk floor as it was moldy. I'm wondering what to replace it with. Who sells material like that?

Auto upholsterer? Carpet shop?

Achievement Unlocked:

Daughter, 20, home from college drove Maytag last few days.

Me: "So, what do you think of Maytag?"

Christine: "It's awesome. Great car. Doesn't do to well going up hills though."

LOL.

Haha, nicely done! What's your method of madness for getting the engine bay so damn clear without dismantling it all and making your fingers bleed into oblivion??!!

unt0uchable wrote:Haha, nicely done! What's your method of madness for getting the engine bay so damn clear without dismantling it all and making your fingers bleed into oblivion??!!

Well, to be clear I *did* pretty much dismantle the whole thing...twice...in my inept attempt to replace the timing belt and heater control valve.

But a good degreaser (P21S Total Auto Wash; the orange stuff) on a warm (not hot) engine, let to sit for a bit with elbow-grease where you can reach goes a long way. Rinse and repeat (literally).

Status:

• New timing belt (done)
• New water pump (done)
• Newish spark plugs (when I baselined Vlad, the plugs I pulled out were basically new; I used those).
• Cleaned injectors (done)
• Soda blasted valve cover (done)
• New radiator hoses (done)
• Cleaned up thermostat and ICV wiring (done)
• Cleaned throttle (done)
• R&R'd heater fan (done)
• R&R'd heater control valve (new solenoid kit) (done)
• Replace headlamps (done)
• Tidy up engine bay with zip-ties etc... (done)
• Pull out old alarm (done)
• Install (temporary) BBS RX wheels (done)
• Replace dog-bones/pitman arms (done)
• Replace all heater/cooling hoses
• Fix battery run down

• Fix surging idle (temporarily fixed with penny with hole method; waiting on a replacement ICV)
• Replace right front wheel bearing
• Install new stereo (same unit Vlad has ordered from Crutchfield)
• Install $17 remote keyless locking system I just ordered on Amazon
• Find a trunk carpet set
• Fix head rests (in-op)
• Install new front rotors & pads
• Mount Conti DW tires on Style 8's
• Install new odometer gears (current gears are ticking)
• Fix trim on windshield (locks strips) to prevent water from entering
• Deal with ATF seepage through soft part of ATF cooling lines.

As you can see from above, I have declared the battery drain fixed. We were out of town for 2.5 weeks and she started right up when we got back. However, I think my daughter left the lights on last night because it wouldn't start this morning for my wife.

Wow, add one more item to the list.

• Fix rust hole in battery box and secure battery

Didn't notice this before. The car would not start for my wife this morning. No power. At first I thought my daughter might have left the lights on last night, but the switch was off.

I noticed that when I touched the positive post (just moved it barely) the interior lights came on. Then I noticed the battery was not secured. Then I noticed the rust hole under the battery. Surprised I didn't see that when I was under the car.



Anyway, gotta get that fixed.

For now, this should make Kohler happy though (put the disconnect on the negative side):

Uh, oh.

I pulled the floor mats out so I could Vlad's old ones in (the beige ones that came with Maytag are pretty ratty).

The whole driver's side foot well is soggy.



Passenger side appears dry.

Is this heater core or due to the fact the windshield trim is leaky?

Or could it be because those plugs behind the brake pedal are missing?

This sucks.

Most likely, your windshield is leaking or the sunroof drains are clogged.

pldlnr wrote:Most likely, your windshield is leaking or the sunroof drains are clogged.

Unclogging sunroof drains is easy. I'll give that a try.

I def need to fix the windshield trim.


After reading all the threads on that, I think I know how to go about it, but I sure wish I had a more complete set of instructions with better pictures.

I'm not sure if I need to completely remove the windshield to fix this.

I'm not sure if I need to replace anything, or just adjust the lock strip.

If I do need to replace things, what parts needs replacing with what (there's some discussion an E30 lock strip will work/fit better?).

And the chance of there being a warm day for doing this is about nil right now.

cek wrote:Achievement Unlocked:

Daughter, 20, home from college drove Maytag last few days.

Me: "So, what do you think of Maytag?"

Christine: "It's awesome. Great car. Doesn't do to well going up hills though."

LOL.

Couldn't have described it better myself


But the ETAs sure fill a niche, and fill it well.

Is the starter on the M20 as difficult to R&R as the one on the M30B34?

I ask because my starter is sometimes over-running; that is, when I start her, the starter continues for a bit after the engine has started.

This is either the solenoid on the starter or the ignition switch. I don't think it's the switch because whacking it when it's doing this doesn't help :-).

Someone's selling a 528e starter in For Sale and this made me think...

cek wrote:Is the starter on the M20 as difficult to R&R as the one on the M30B34?

I ask because my starter is sometimes over-running; that is, when I start her, the starter continues for a bit after the engine has started.

This is either the solenoid on the starter or the ignition switch. I don't think it's the switch because whacking it when it's doing this doesn't help :-).

Someone's selling a 528e starter in For Sale and this made me think...

Its harder only because its cramped in the back of the engine bay and there is a threaded bolt with a nut instead of just a bolt like on an M30.

You have to reach behind the transmission housing and put a Torx key on the bolt heads before you whip off the nuts.

In my case I used a Torx wrench, but in most cases its an INVERTED torx, so you'd need a torx socket.

Acid House wrote:

cek wrote:Is the starter on the M20 as difficult to R&R as the one on the M30B34?

I ask because my starter is sometimes over-running; that is, when I start her, the starter continues for a bit after the engine has started.

This is either the solenoid on the starter or the ignition switch. I don't think it's the switch because whacking it when it's doing this doesn't help :-).

Someone's selling a 528e starter in For Sale and this made me think...

Its harder only because its cramped in the back of the engine bay and there is a threaded bolt with a nut instead of just a bolt like on an M30.

You have to reach behind the transmission housing and put a Torx key on the bolt heads before you whip off the nuts.

In my case I used a Torx wrench, but in most cases its an INVERTED torx, so you'd need a torx socket.

Well Eff That. I'll live with it.

Mine was doing the same thing as yours, I was advised to change it out before it damaged the teeth on the flywheel.

It's not really that bad, considering all that you've done to it already. I was able to use Vise-Grips on the bottom bolt head to get the nut off, maybe it would also work on top?

cek wrote:

Acid House wrote:

cek wrote:Is the starter on the M20 as difficult to R&R as the one on the M30B34?

I ask because my starter is sometimes over-running; that is, when I start her, the starter continues for a bit after the engine has started.

This is either the solenoid on the starter or the ignition switch. I don't think it's the switch because whacking it when it's doing this doesn't help :-).

Someone's selling a 528e starter in For Sale and this made me think...

Its harder only because its cramped in the back of the engine bay and there is a threaded bolt with a nut instead of just a bolt like on an M30.

You have to reach behind the transmission housing and put a Torx key on the bolt heads before you whip off the nuts.

In my case I used a Torx wrench, but in most cases its an INVERTED torx, so you'd need a torx socket.

Well Eff That. I'll live with it.

Best of luck here, but if you knock the sensor tab off the flywheel you'll still have to remove those bolts when you remove the transmission.

I just don't understand why people make such a big deal about changing these starters.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=107295

I even had to do it again two weeks later when the AZ reman starter began making some strange noises.
I ordered the Bosch reman unit, like I should have done in the first place. Took the starter back to AZ and they refunded my money, including the core charge, they were very helpful, much to my surprise.

Some good news: The ICV I bought off a member (Thanks doniiebrasco81 for an excellent transaction!) fixes Maytag's idle woes.

I've checked the sunroof drains and they are clear, so that's not the culprit of the water leak.

I'm pretty much convinced it is from the area where the heater blower is, but until I have time to pull it apart I won't know for sure.



The carpet is rotted below where the speaker is. It is already torn, and just slightly pulling on it causes it to come apart further. This problem is not new. I'm going to to find another carpet set for this car.

I figure there'd be no harm in putting Schwartz carpet in, right? My wife's 135 looks fine with a beige interior with black carpet. I mean, if I find a nice beige set I'll put that in, but knowing I can go either way will increase my odds of finding something good.

Anyone in the Seattle area have a parts car with good carpet, or know of one?