Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
2023:
M5 Sun Visors:
I put these in kind of at the last minute during the Interiors project simply because I had forgotten I had a set of these lighted M5 Sun Visors sitting in a box for nearly a decade. I hadn’t even bothered to test them before I installed them and given how they came along late in the process, I had to get creative with the wiring for them. So, when they didn’t work part of me wasn’t surprised and I put them on the punch list. I just got around a few weeks back to addressing this issue.
1) Stated by bench testing them wherein I found out they do indeed work
2) Turns out the contacts on the receiver clips and on the visor themselves needed some attention
3)They still don’t work 100% and is dependent on what position the visor is in (the contact points on those clips is a bit 'iffy) but more than they did before, which wasn’t at all
Interior Door Handles:
Okay, I thought the Wiper System was a splurge, this, however was a total indulgence. After I have replaced several Interior Door Latch assemblies in recent years, it is evident that the quality of these new parts is really lacking. Someone came up with solution, albeit an over the top, expensive one. Leo Grande Racing out of Long Island, NY started fabricating aluminum replacement assemblies. This included the one part that keeps breaking: the Interior Trim Ring. These are really robust pieces that will hopefully outlast my lifetime.
Here I was in a bit of quandary regarding the Trim Rings: BMW still makes replacements in a color that they claim is Taurusrot but in reality is Cardinal. All my used or old NIB Taurusrot trim rings consistently break even after I tried reinforcing them by laying down a bead of Super Glue on the back side. (You can see the 'new' Taurus rings in one of the photos below; see how light it is compared to either the original ring or vinyl cover)
The quandary was that Leo Grande only makes the Trim Rings in either black or clear anodized finishes. I could have simply accepted the black ones, but I just couldn’t, not after spending all this effort on the Taurusrot interior; it seemed a sacrilege. Since they weren’t changing their finishes, I asked for milled finish and decided to powder coat the rings in a matching color.
After going through RAL color samples at the powdercoater, I came up with one from Prismatic Powders (RAL 8016). It’s actually a brown but given the brown nature of Taurus in certain light, it works. Too bad it’s only available in a gloss finish, but I’m living with it. I may apply a satin or low luster topcoat to knock that sheen down eventually. I will also paint the trim screws either to match or just black.
Installation was easy and they go in just like the OEM versions: Remove Trim Ring, Armrest/Handle, and Door Panel. Disconnect & remove existing latch. Connect and install new latch. Re-install all the components. Screw on the finish Trim Ring with the oh-so-impossibly small torx screws they provide. You’re set.
Yeah, it is an expensive solution to a minor problem but I did it anyway.
Door Weatherstripping & Door Sills:
This too is a work in progress but is getting closer to being complete. I installed my original rear sets, but due to an extreme case of brain-fartness, I ‘lost’ my original front sets. I temporarily installed a set of after-market versions sourced from a guy in Turkey via ebay. While they don’t have the requisite “Mouse Fur” of the OEM, they fit really well and offered complete door opening coverage. This is the real weak part of the E28 door seal system: the seal breaks at the Door Sills and nothing is underneath them to seal off the opening adequately (BMW offered complete opening seals in almost every other model except the E28 and E12).
I also ‘lost’ my two front Door Sills (I don’t know what happened that week in the Hangar) and of course these are NLA so I set out trying to find decent, clean replacements; a tall order. I have plans to modify the sills and add some rubber/foam profile weatherstrip to build a better mousetrap, more complete seal to the bottom of the door seal to get better acoustic control.
In the meantime, the E12 Door Sills are/were available and compared to used E28 sills, a bargain from BMW. The E12’s are also all black which I tend to like better with my interior.
Door Lower Edge Guards:
After 32 years those rubber edge guards were starting to show their age and wear. Multiple dings, scrapes, and general fading left these kind of dull looking and a bit distracting. No matter what refinishing and/or cleaning and treatments I did, I couldn’t restore them completely. On the M535i these are Shadowline trim so finding good replacements was next to impossible. Fortunately, these are still available from BMW; but unfortunately not all of them are available: missing are the Driver’s front fender and the Passenger’s rear door.
Replacing these is very easy actually as they are held in with just one plastic capture nut and some plastic clips on the door:
1) Open door, remove the plastic capture nut on the inside of the door edge at the back
2) Gently pry off the edge guard with the correct plastic trim tools, they will pop off the clips with some concentrated effort
3) Replace any retaining clips as needed, thoroughly clean behind them and prep the replacement edge guards (it’s a good idea to pre-thread the plastic capture nuts ahead of installation) as well as treating the new rubber. Mine were obviously not removed during the car re-paint in 1990-91(these are white and still available in bulk from BMW):
4) Install the new edge guard in reverse order.
However, that left what to do about the two pieces that couldn’t be replaced with new. The two choices were to source a good used part or refinish my old ones. I was able to find a pretty nice rear door strip which was actually better than mine (no dings).
I couldn’t find that front fender one to save my life. The issue with mine were mars and discoloration which I couldn’t do anything with by simple means; it was going to require more aggressive means. One of the issues to overcome was the texture differences between the new rubber and that of a 32-year-old piece; the older ones have usually been worked smooth while the new ones have the tooth and luster of new rubber. Duplicating that finish to match the other 4 new pieces was going to take some work
Re-Finishing:
1) First step was to strip all the finish and product out of the two pieces. Scrubbing them down with degreaser and soap then soaking them in said solution to leech out as much as possible
2) Second is a firm couple passes with an acetone soaked rag. This burns in a new layer of rubber, one that has tooth
3) Third step was a light couple of passes with 220 wet sandpaper, then progressively down to 600 grit. The trick is to not to polish the rubber too much, you need to leave texture in your wake.
[URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ ... fit=bounds]
4) Next was to put back something to restore the rubber and get the color back. I tried out the myriad of the many, many different rubber treatment products in my cabinet on one of the old trim pieces. I finally settled on this one: Trim Restorer:
It was less a topical cover like Back To Black and some others; it actually soaks in while leveling out the finish and matches the luster of the new rubber. It takes some practice in application so as not to leave streaks and get even coverage. Let it soak in for as long as you can (6, 12, 24 hours or longer). Lightly buff it in one direction with a clean microfiber to remove any excess and even out the finish. It may take a few coats. If you leave streaks you have to strip it off with acetone and start over. Since I don’t wash the car down with water & soap nor does it sit out in the rain and sun, time will tell how long this finish lasts.
Coincidentally I tried a similar process on the rubber M-Tech Rear Spoiler rubber lip, that is a work in progress. (More and that soon).
M5 Sun Visors:
I put these in kind of at the last minute during the Interiors project simply because I had forgotten I had a set of these lighted M5 Sun Visors sitting in a box for nearly a decade. I hadn’t even bothered to test them before I installed them and given how they came along late in the process, I had to get creative with the wiring for them. So, when they didn’t work part of me wasn’t surprised and I put them on the punch list. I just got around a few weeks back to addressing this issue.
1) Stated by bench testing them wherein I found out they do indeed work
2) Turns out the contacts on the receiver clips and on the visor themselves needed some attention
3)They still don’t work 100% and is dependent on what position the visor is in (the contact points on those clips is a bit 'iffy) but more than they did before, which wasn’t at all
Interior Door Handles:
Okay, I thought the Wiper System was a splurge, this, however was a total indulgence. After I have replaced several Interior Door Latch assemblies in recent years, it is evident that the quality of these new parts is really lacking. Someone came up with solution, albeit an over the top, expensive one. Leo Grande Racing out of Long Island, NY started fabricating aluminum replacement assemblies. This included the one part that keeps breaking: the Interior Trim Ring. These are really robust pieces that will hopefully outlast my lifetime.
Here I was in a bit of quandary regarding the Trim Rings: BMW still makes replacements in a color that they claim is Taurusrot but in reality is Cardinal. All my used or old NIB Taurusrot trim rings consistently break even after I tried reinforcing them by laying down a bead of Super Glue on the back side. (You can see the 'new' Taurus rings in one of the photos below; see how light it is compared to either the original ring or vinyl cover)
The quandary was that Leo Grande only makes the Trim Rings in either black or clear anodized finishes. I could have simply accepted the black ones, but I just couldn’t, not after spending all this effort on the Taurusrot interior; it seemed a sacrilege. Since they weren’t changing their finishes, I asked for milled finish and decided to powder coat the rings in a matching color.
After going through RAL color samples at the powdercoater, I came up with one from Prismatic Powders (RAL 8016). It’s actually a brown but given the brown nature of Taurus in certain light, it works. Too bad it’s only available in a gloss finish, but I’m living with it. I may apply a satin or low luster topcoat to knock that sheen down eventually. I will also paint the trim screws either to match or just black.
Installation was easy and they go in just like the OEM versions: Remove Trim Ring, Armrest/Handle, and Door Panel. Disconnect & remove existing latch. Connect and install new latch. Re-install all the components. Screw on the finish Trim Ring with the oh-so-impossibly small torx screws they provide. You’re set.
Yeah, it is an expensive solution to a minor problem but I did it anyway.
Door Weatherstripping & Door Sills:
This too is a work in progress but is getting closer to being complete. I installed my original rear sets, but due to an extreme case of brain-fartness, I ‘lost’ my original front sets. I temporarily installed a set of after-market versions sourced from a guy in Turkey via ebay. While they don’t have the requisite “Mouse Fur” of the OEM, they fit really well and offered complete door opening coverage. This is the real weak part of the E28 door seal system: the seal breaks at the Door Sills and nothing is underneath them to seal off the opening adequately (BMW offered complete opening seals in almost every other model except the E28 and E12).
I also ‘lost’ my two front Door Sills (I don’t know what happened that week in the Hangar) and of course these are NLA so I set out trying to find decent, clean replacements; a tall order. I have plans to modify the sills and add some rubber/foam profile weatherstrip to build a better mousetrap, more complete seal to the bottom of the door seal to get better acoustic control.
In the meantime, the E12 Door Sills are/were available and compared to used E28 sills, a bargain from BMW. The E12’s are also all black which I tend to like better with my interior.
Door Lower Edge Guards:
After 32 years those rubber edge guards were starting to show their age and wear. Multiple dings, scrapes, and general fading left these kind of dull looking and a bit distracting. No matter what refinishing and/or cleaning and treatments I did, I couldn’t restore them completely. On the M535i these are Shadowline trim so finding good replacements was next to impossible. Fortunately, these are still available from BMW; but unfortunately not all of them are available: missing are the Driver’s front fender and the Passenger’s rear door.
Replacing these is very easy actually as they are held in with just one plastic capture nut and some plastic clips on the door:
1) Open door, remove the plastic capture nut on the inside of the door edge at the back
2) Gently pry off the edge guard with the correct plastic trim tools, they will pop off the clips with some concentrated effort
3) Replace any retaining clips as needed, thoroughly clean behind them and prep the replacement edge guards (it’s a good idea to pre-thread the plastic capture nuts ahead of installation) as well as treating the new rubber. Mine were obviously not removed during the car re-paint in 1990-91(these are white and still available in bulk from BMW):
4) Install the new edge guard in reverse order.
However, that left what to do about the two pieces that couldn’t be replaced with new. The two choices were to source a good used part or refinish my old ones. I was able to find a pretty nice rear door strip which was actually better than mine (no dings).
I couldn’t find that front fender one to save my life. The issue with mine were mars and discoloration which I couldn’t do anything with by simple means; it was going to require more aggressive means. One of the issues to overcome was the texture differences between the new rubber and that of a 32-year-old piece; the older ones have usually been worked smooth while the new ones have the tooth and luster of new rubber. Duplicating that finish to match the other 4 new pieces was going to take some work
Re-Finishing:
1) First step was to strip all the finish and product out of the two pieces. Scrubbing them down with degreaser and soap then soaking them in said solution to leech out as much as possible
2) Second is a firm couple passes with an acetone soaked rag. This burns in a new layer of rubber, one that has tooth
3) Third step was a light couple of passes with 220 wet sandpaper, then progressively down to 600 grit. The trick is to not to polish the rubber too much, you need to leave texture in your wake.
[URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ ... fit=bounds]
4) Next was to put back something to restore the rubber and get the color back. I tried out the myriad of the many, many different rubber treatment products in my cabinet on one of the old trim pieces. I finally settled on this one: Trim Restorer:
It was less a topical cover like Back To Black and some others; it actually soaks in while leveling out the finish and matches the luster of the new rubber. It takes some practice in application so as not to leave streaks and get even coverage. Let it soak in for as long as you can (6, 12, 24 hours or longer). Lightly buff it in one direction with a clean microfiber to remove any excess and even out the finish. It may take a few coats. If you leave streaks you have to strip it off with acetone and start over. Since I don’t wash the car down with water & soap nor does it sit out in the rain and sun, time will tell how long this finish lasts.
Coincidentally I tried a similar process on the rubber M-Tech Rear Spoiler rubber lip, that is a work in progress. (More and that soon).
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
MORE 2023:
Transmission Repairs:
Okay that leads up to the last item I did just before the holidays: Transmission troubleshooting. This has been on the Punch List since 2016 when I did the last big mechanical work. I have a Getrag G265/6 Overdrive unit in this car (this is actually the third such unit this car as seen since it was converted to manual back in 1989/90). The big issue is the trademark signature of these older transmission: excessive internal Bearing noise. Derogatorily known as the “Death Rattle” and is most noticeable when in neutral and the clutch out. It actually doesn’t automatically mean the unit has failed as it can usually go for years in this state under normal or light driving conditions. But it does get progressively worse, as my current one is doing.
The big culprit for the G265/6 is the wearing of the Input Shaft Bearing (ISB); FAG made these for BMW and they discontinued making them decades ago. The versions for the /6 are unique to these so any old replacement is insufficient and they are next to impossible to find any NIB. There are whole threads on this issue, so I won’t go into too much of the R&D for solutions and/or sourcing, except to say that my partner-in-crime Ralph came up with a temporary fix that seems to relieve and lessen the rattle noise.
It involves replacing the shims around the Input Shaft just outside the ISB; BMW employed a set of steel shim snap rings of varying thicknesses in order to take up the play in the shaft (it’s almost as if they knew there would be a need for this in the future as the bearings wear out). Luckily all the thicknesses are still available so it would be a matter of determining which one to employ.
Ralph fabbed up a crude tool to measure the play (shaft in/out) and matched that to one of the shim thicknesses I picked up. As you can see when we started, there was quite a bit of play:
Replacing these shims is somewhat fairly straight-forward with the biggest PITA is the removing/re-installing the transmission itself. Having a lift makes this infinitely less of a PITA, especially for middle-aged men like Ralph & I (all that lying on a concrete floor working on our backs, oy).
Once out and on the bench:
1) Remove the front cover that surrounds the Input Shaft. This exposes the shims, protection rings and the ISB itself (it’s the big thing at the back with the brass ring)
2)Now comes Ralph’s other tool: a set of simple pipe fittings to compress the shims and spacer rings back to relieve the tension and fully expose the shim ring we’re after. Without this, no snap ring plier in the world will be able to get that ring out. You’re going to maul this getting it out so don’t sweat it
3) Chose the appropriate replacement shim and begin to install it; it too will take some effort without damaging it or the surrounding components
4) Re-install the old cover cap (this part is NLA so don’t damage it), a new outer snap ring and you’re done.
After shim replacement, we got the play down considerably:
Outer Cover:
Since the space behind it and around the ISB gets transmission oil into it, this cover is the source of most transmission leaks. On a /6 there is no gasket (unlike the /5 Dogleg) between the cover and case, it relies on sealant to prevent leaking. So, you need to clean off any of the old and replace the gasket/seal, making sure to properly seat it into the cover.
Liberally apply generous amount of Loctite 609 Green sealant to the Cover and re-install to the case. Torque the cover bolts, keep upright so as not to let the transmission oil into this front area until the Loctite has set up.
Next up is to reinstall the transmission (and the driveshaft, and the exhaust system, and the gear shifter, and the front sway bar). Lower the car and test drive.
The verdict?
Totally worth it, so far. The noise has been dramatically reduced; my real test however will come in two months on the long drive to San Diego and in traffic where it will get hot, that was when it was at its’ loudest. If we have some clearer days soon I will take it out for longer drives to see also.
Transmission Repairs:
Okay that leads up to the last item I did just before the holidays: Transmission troubleshooting. This has been on the Punch List since 2016 when I did the last big mechanical work. I have a Getrag G265/6 Overdrive unit in this car (this is actually the third such unit this car as seen since it was converted to manual back in 1989/90). The big issue is the trademark signature of these older transmission: excessive internal Bearing noise. Derogatorily known as the “Death Rattle” and is most noticeable when in neutral and the clutch out. It actually doesn’t automatically mean the unit has failed as it can usually go for years in this state under normal or light driving conditions. But it does get progressively worse, as my current one is doing.
The big culprit for the G265/6 is the wearing of the Input Shaft Bearing (ISB); FAG made these for BMW and they discontinued making them decades ago. The versions for the /6 are unique to these so any old replacement is insufficient and they are next to impossible to find any NIB. There are whole threads on this issue, so I won’t go into too much of the R&D for solutions and/or sourcing, except to say that my partner-in-crime Ralph came up with a temporary fix that seems to relieve and lessen the rattle noise.
It involves replacing the shims around the Input Shaft just outside the ISB; BMW employed a set of steel shim snap rings of varying thicknesses in order to take up the play in the shaft (it’s almost as if they knew there would be a need for this in the future as the bearings wear out). Luckily all the thicknesses are still available so it would be a matter of determining which one to employ.
Ralph fabbed up a crude tool to measure the play (shaft in/out) and matched that to one of the shim thicknesses I picked up. As you can see when we started, there was quite a bit of play:
Replacing these shims is somewhat fairly straight-forward with the biggest PITA is the removing/re-installing the transmission itself. Having a lift makes this infinitely less of a PITA, especially for middle-aged men like Ralph & I (all that lying on a concrete floor working on our backs, oy).
Once out and on the bench:
1) Remove the front cover that surrounds the Input Shaft. This exposes the shims, protection rings and the ISB itself (it’s the big thing at the back with the brass ring)
2)Now comes Ralph’s other tool: a set of simple pipe fittings to compress the shims and spacer rings back to relieve the tension and fully expose the shim ring we’re after. Without this, no snap ring plier in the world will be able to get that ring out. You’re going to maul this getting it out so don’t sweat it
3) Chose the appropriate replacement shim and begin to install it; it too will take some effort without damaging it or the surrounding components
4) Re-install the old cover cap (this part is NLA so don’t damage it), a new outer snap ring and you’re done.
After shim replacement, we got the play down considerably:
Outer Cover:
Since the space behind it and around the ISB gets transmission oil into it, this cover is the source of most transmission leaks. On a /6 there is no gasket (unlike the /5 Dogleg) between the cover and case, it relies on sealant to prevent leaking. So, you need to clean off any of the old and replace the gasket/seal, making sure to properly seat it into the cover.
Liberally apply generous amount of Loctite 609 Green sealant to the Cover and re-install to the case. Torque the cover bolts, keep upright so as not to let the transmission oil into this front area until the Loctite has set up.
Next up is to reinstall the transmission (and the driveshaft, and the exhaust system, and the gear shifter, and the front sway bar). Lower the car and test drive.
The verdict?
Totally worth it, so far. The noise has been dramatically reduced; my real test however will come in two months on the long drive to San Diego and in traffic where it will get hot, that was when it was at its’ loudest. If we have some clearer days soon I will take it out for longer drives to see also.
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
Okay, so this is only tangentially related to this car as this is something I've been kicking around since my last E28. Again, in an attempt to make a better mousetrap and not to settle with other perfectly fine solutions, I set out to design the ultimate trunk organization box.
This was inspired by a blurry image from the German language E28 Accessory catalog of something BMW called a 'Kofferaumbox' (cleverly translates as 'Trunk Box'). It was a metal box wrapped in the same trunk lining material and was a simple affair of just one open compartment; but what attracted me to it was that it was shaped to fit the driver's side of the trunk so it is specific to the E28.
I, of course, needed my version to handle a lot more program and turn it into a multi-function storage box and tool kit. This needed to hold:
-Fluids
-Fire Extinguisher
-First Aid Kit
-Flashlight/Lamp
-Tools
-Spare Parts
-Car Cleaning Supplies
-Misc items
I, like you, probably have several boxes (cardboard, milk crates, etc.) to solve this; but I am kind of tired of having those slide around in my trunk.
This meant that it needs to have multiple compartments and be tall enough to completely cover all the contents with a lid, but yet still fit inside the trunk. As a result, this new box kind of resembles the M5/6 Battery Box, albeit slightly bigger.
This cardboard mock-up is a proof of concept working model as I needed to adjust its' proportions and shape to best fit the geometry of an E28 trunk.
The middle section will have two lift-out stacking trays that hold the tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, socket set, etc.). I know, I know: BMW gave you a perfectly good tool kit in the lid of the trunk, but these tools are the 'everyday' tools one might need on a road trip.
I am trying out which Warning Triangle to mount to the lid. The BMW version is correct, but that red one is a better triangle
It will be covered inside and out with a covering that matches the BMW trunk liner material. There will be a hook or angle that holds this to sloping panel along the driver's trunk side (where the jack is stored); this will keep in place and allows it to be removed without too much fuss.
My next steps are to make a better template model for a welder since I want to make this out of thin aluminum panels to keep the weight down while giving it the most strength possible. Then finally execute this thing (it's only been about 10 years... )
Okay, so 2024 is bringing more opportunities for car road trips for events including possibly going to Monterey and participating at Legends of the Autobahn for the first time. This means I have to get moving on my Troubleshooting Punch List/Upgrade List, which means I will have more updates coming to this thread. See you soon.
This was inspired by a blurry image from the German language E28 Accessory catalog of something BMW called a 'Kofferaumbox' (cleverly translates as 'Trunk Box'). It was a metal box wrapped in the same trunk lining material and was a simple affair of just one open compartment; but what attracted me to it was that it was shaped to fit the driver's side of the trunk so it is specific to the E28.
I, of course, needed my version to handle a lot more program and turn it into a multi-function storage box and tool kit. This needed to hold:
-Fluids
-Fire Extinguisher
-First Aid Kit
-Flashlight/Lamp
-Tools
-Spare Parts
-Car Cleaning Supplies
-Misc items
I, like you, probably have several boxes (cardboard, milk crates, etc.) to solve this; but I am kind of tired of having those slide around in my trunk.
This meant that it needs to have multiple compartments and be tall enough to completely cover all the contents with a lid, but yet still fit inside the trunk. As a result, this new box kind of resembles the M5/6 Battery Box, albeit slightly bigger.
This cardboard mock-up is a proof of concept working model as I needed to adjust its' proportions and shape to best fit the geometry of an E28 trunk.
The middle section will have two lift-out stacking trays that hold the tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, socket set, etc.). I know, I know: BMW gave you a perfectly good tool kit in the lid of the trunk, but these tools are the 'everyday' tools one might need on a road trip.
I am trying out which Warning Triangle to mount to the lid. The BMW version is correct, but that red one is a better triangle
It will be covered inside and out with a covering that matches the BMW trunk liner material. There will be a hook or angle that holds this to sloping panel along the driver's trunk side (where the jack is stored); this will keep in place and allows it to be removed without too much fuss.
My next steps are to make a better template model for a welder since I want to make this out of thin aluminum panels to keep the weight down while giving it the most strength possible. Then finally execute this thing (it's only been about 10 years... )
Okay, so 2024 is bringing more opportunities for car road trips for events including possibly going to Monterey and participating at Legends of the Autobahn for the first time. This means I have to get moving on my Troubleshooting Punch List/Upgrade List, which means I will have more updates coming to this thread. See you soon.
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
Great work, Vince, and I love the detailed approach you take to these projects. Super helpful for the rest of us is the step-by-step pics and write ups you have done here (and big props for the amount of effort that takes).
This car just keeps getting better and better and better. It's come a loooong way from when I first saw it here in Colorado sometime in the early 2000's!
Jim
This car just keeps getting better and better and better. It's come a loooong way from when I first saw it here in Colorado sometime in the early 2000's!
Jim
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
Impressive, as always!
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
Well now, seeing as you now have all this experience....... Hope to see it at some point!
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
The trunk box is a thing of corrugated beauty.
I wouldn't be afraid to make it out of sheet steel though, weight savings will be negligible vs the cost delta (and considering all the weight it is holding.)
I wouldn't be afraid to make it out of sheet steel though, weight savings will be negligible vs the cost delta (and considering all the weight it is holding.)
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
It's going to be a balance between weight and strength; and you're right: it has to be strong enough to support all the stuff inside when it gets lifted out. It's the reason I'm considering thin aluminum sheet/plate; however it's a discussion to have with the welder.ElGuappo wrote: Jan 26, 2024 2:16 PM The trunk box is a thing of corrugated beauty.
I wouldn't be afraid to make it out of sheet steel though, weight savings will be negligible vs the cost delta (and considering all the weight it is holding.)
I initially tried making one out of 1/8" MDF and 3/16" Masonite Hardboard but couldn't get the joinery to work with the odd angles and thin stock. Once I get the advanced model mocked up I can then have an intelligent conversation with the welder.
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
That would've been a good application for a medium size laser cutter and 1/4" plywood.
They cut finger joints for edges so well, all that surface area for glue. Also thru 'tenons' in the sides to lock partitions in place.
They cut finger joints for edges so well, all that surface area for glue. Also thru 'tenons' in the sides to lock partitions in place.
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- Joined: Oct 06, 2008 10:03 PM
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
My goodness that is one staggeringly beautiful E28.
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- Location: NL
Re: 1985 Arktisblau M535i Renovation - Progression
Really informative and helpful thread - provided useful information for my own project (E28S M5 DC91)