MyE28.com DEV

Exactly one year ago (almost to the hour) CJ & I (and Coco) landed at the Santa Barbara airport and Hans (PO) pulled up to the curb in Vlad.



And we started our drive back to Seattle.





Been a great car and a great year!

Cute dog. My wife will go nuts when I show her that picture. She had a yorky growing up and he is talked about quite a bit around the house.

Oh yeah, nice car too

speaking for my28.com, it's really been a pleasure having you

cek wrote:I am now officially collecting euro bumper parts.

If you plan on selling the IS spoiler, and Maytag doesn't already have dibs on it, add me to the list of those 'officially' interested.

/Clint

three5ives wrote:

cek wrote:I am now officially collecting euro bumper parts.

If you plan on selling the IS spoiler, and Maytag doesn't already have dibs on it, add me to the list of those 'officially' interested.

/Clint

I don't plan on ISizing Maytag, so your dibs is confirmed...

Hard to believe its been a year already! Thanks for keeping us frequently updated, your posts are very informative and inspiring

CYoung wrote:Hard to believe its been a year already! Thanks for keeping us frequently updated, your posts are very informative and inspiring

I second this

Thanks for the encouragement guys.

If you're subscribed to my M30B35 thread you know that it is finally going together. Maytag is now 'done' enough that I think I'm mostly confident (!?!) in it as a daily driver. This means it is time to get serious about parking Vlad and pulling the current engine.

But first, I'm going to dyno it. I have an appointment on Friday at Carb Connection in Kirkland to do three runs:

- As-is, with the Conforti chip
- With the OEM chip
- With the Miller MAF and Miller chip I got from Kohler

Sometime this week I'm going to hack up the mods required to make the Miller plug and play (I hope). If I can't get the MAF done, then no biggie; it was just for shits-and-giggles anyway.

The key is to know precisely what rwhp/rwtq the car currently produces so that after the new engine is in we can see what all that money bought us.

I'm starting to build a list of things that I will replace/refurbish on Vlad once the engine bay is empty. I figure that as long as I don't take TOO long, there's no rush, and given I'm keeping this car forever, I might as well fix anything that's hard to get to unless the motor/tranny are out.

Please help me flush this list out.

• Driveshaft - The one in the car has 177k on it.
• Guibo
• Brake bomb (no service records of it being replaced)
• Master cylinder (TBD - PO installed one from a 740i at 165K miles when he upgraded the brakes)
• Heater fans
• Touch up paint in engine bay
• Powder coat front sub-frame & bits
• Beef up steering box bracket
• Short shift kit? Not sure I want one, but at the minimum I'll take a close look at all bushings.
• New clutch/throwout/slave.
• Car shifts great; I'm assuming the tranny is fine. I'll replace the fluid, but otherwise leave it alone.
• Drop & clean gas tank. I may replace it as it has a dent in it.
• New in-tank fuel pump.
• May re-paint the entire underside.

Very nice job. It's a great car. Nice of you to take the wife's
dog on that trip too

cek wrote: Car shifts great; I'm assuming the tranny is fine. I'll replace the fluid, but otherwise leave it alone.

The tranny has 3 shaft seals, I'd consider on replacing them.

kzolee wrote:

cek wrote: Car shifts great; I'm assuming the tranny is fine. I'll replace the fluid, but otherwise leave it alone.

The tranny has 3 shaft seals, I'd consider on replacing them.

Good point. I'll do that.

Vlad now has a Miller MAF, btw. See this thread for details:

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=1245393

This is the old ECU:



The new "modified for MAF" ECU:



And the MAF installed:



With the MAF installed throttle response is sharper. Idle is surging between 600 and 900 rpm, kinda like it was way back when I swapped out AFMs. It almost wants to stall when it dips.

Ooh, lookie what arrived today.



Won't go on until the new engine is put in, but nice to have.

Refurbished or OEM? Guessing refurbished from whatever paper is attached to it. If so who did you go through?

I had a nice time at the dyno place this afternoon. Learned a bunch.



First, here's a video of a run. Note this was a 4th gear test run. We did all of the real runs in 3rd gear. I didn't video them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MQ8qCFbpag

I can't all post charts yet because I didn't have a thumbdrive and the files they emailed me were incomplete (I only have them for the MAF setup).

Here's the summary (69.5 degres, 30.07 in-Hg, Humidity 25%, SAE: 0.97, all runs in 3rd gear):

• 059 ECU with OEM chip and standard AFM: 172.72 rwhp / 188.01 rwtrq @ 5500 rpm. Peak A/F at about 14.1 near 4000 rpm, but just below 13 at 5500 rpm.
• 059 ECU with Conforti chip and standard AFM: 175.58 rwhp / 187.58 rwtrq @5200 rpm. Peak A/F just over 15 at about 4500 rpm. Just under 14 at 5500 rpm.
• 059 ECU with Miller MAF chip (not War) and Miller mAF: 169.81 rwhp / 184.31 rwtrq. One run had peak A/F at almost 16 at 2200 and 3500 rpm, below 14 mid-range, and rises to ~15.5 at 6000 rpm.

UPDATE: Updated graph showing runs for all 3 setups



Full resolution graph here: https://flic.kr/p/n3bVR1

A few discussion-worthy points:

• Neither the MAF nor Conforti chip show any significant power increase over the OEM. In fact, the MAF is measurably LOWER.
• In my very first test run, in 4th gear, with the MAF the results were 172.49/190.86, but it was clear it was not a good run because the graph was super lumpy along the entire run, so it does not count.
• We ran several runs with each setup and the numbers and they were all basically the same for each.
• I'm running lean in all setups. It is pretty bad with the MAF, approaching 16 at high RPM. But even with the OEM chip it doesn't drop below 13 (where I've been told is about right) until above 5000 rpm. I have no explanation for why I'm running lean.

The primary goal of this exercise has been achieved: get a base line of this car with the M30B34 on that dynometer: Basically 173-176 rear-wheel-hp and 188 rear-wheel-torque.

If the M30B35 is good for 30-40 hp as Paul Burke has suggested, then when I do runs after break-in, I should easily break 200 and maybe push 210 hp. Of course this all assumes it doesn't blow up the first time I try to run it.

CYoung wrote:Refurbished or OEM? Guessing refurbished from whatever paper is attached to it. If so who did you go through?

Driveline service of Portland. They no longer manufacture E28 drive shafts with replaceable u-joints. Apparently the guy who drove that retired and has subsequently passed away :-(.

You can still buy a re-manufactured shaft through them for $400 - $95 core refund (shipped).

cek wrote:If the M30B34 is good for 30-40 hp as Paul Burke has suggested, then when I do runs after break-in, I should easily break 200 and maybe push 210 hp. Of course this all assumes it doesn't blow up the first time I try to run it.

Did you mean M30B35?

boastless wrote:

cek wrote:If the M30B34 is good for 30-40 hp as Paul Burke has suggested, then when I do runs after break-in, I should easily break 200 and maybe push 210 hp. Of course this all assumes it doesn't blow up the first time I try to run it.

Did you mean M30B35?

yes.

Good info above. I don't have any of those brand of 'upgrades' (or an m30), but interesting to say the least.
Makes me wonder about my m50 chip

I've now had first hand dyno experience with both 80s vintage Porsche and BMW aftermarket chips (with all else being equal). My conclusion: they are worse than a waste of money as the only change you'll ever notice is engine damage due to over-revving...because they all either eliminate or raise the redline.

Which, if you look at most power curves for these motors, is stupid to begin with because peak power is almost always found well below the redline.

When I get my data files and post all the graphs you'll also see the curve for the OEM chip is smoother across the entire rev range.

3-4hp, less smoothness, and a chance someone will over rev your engine: not worth it.

Now, I do regret not putting this car on the dyno before I put on the headers and cat-delete exhaust. I'd love to have actual data for that mod.

Great findings CEK- Thanks for sharing ( as always)

I'll see if I can dyno mine when I put the bav headers on ( cat deleat) and stock everything else for comparison...

I've updated the dyno post above to include a new graph showing runs for all three setups. Or you can click here: https://flic.kr/p/n3bVR1

I hope I can find time to install this tonight. My plan is to just wire it in 'quick and dirty', plumbing it through the glove box and not mounting the gauge anywhere permanently.

Once the B35 goes in I'll do something more permanent, but i really have no intention of having the gauge always visible.



I have an IE FPR inbound as well.

For now I have the glovebox out and the Air Fuel Mixture meter mounted with a zip tie. I installed it by tying it directly in to the pin 35 power to the ECU.

Here's the adjustable fuel regulator installed.

I've done a few test drives, tweaking the flow. Not really sure what I'm doing, but feel like i'm figuring it out. I know high is bad :-)

Tweaked the AFR so it fits better and the hose can't kink.



Also installed the MAF again. I've decided that I'm going to run it until the motor's out of the car. With the AFR and the wideband meter monitoring I found that by turning up the fuel pressure slightly she runs slightly richer with the MAF.



And for funzies I checked a spark plug. I was curious what they looked like given the car has been running lean.

This is my current fuel pressure. Just above 3.0.

In other news, I think Vlad is trying to tell me something: It wants the new engine.

First, I'm now feeling slippage in the clutch. I knew it was about due when I bought the car and that's part of the motivation for the engine transplant.

Second, on the way in to work this morning the oil light on the check panel came on. I checked the oil level and it's full. I guess the switch in the oil pan decided to go bad.

I checked the oil level right away because I had a pit-in-the-stomach-feeling that my recent hard runs with a potential lean setup caused damage. Glad I walked myself away from that ledge by verifying the oil is still full (this car has never really burnt much oil).

On a semi unrelated note, I seen this car today and thought of you.





It looked extremely nice and well kept. I went into the Starbucks it was parked near but didn't see anyone standing out that might have been the owner. Man I love the way these cars look.

Lovely.

I went to the Porsche "show 'n shine" at XXX Root Beer today (great local place that hosts car shows pretty much every weekend starting this time of year; about 5 miles away). It was raining so I chose not drive the 911 and there were not many cars there. Quite a few 928s.

i'm a bit disappointed this isn't in binary.