Wasted Spark Install
Re: Wasted Spark Install
photobucket extension on chrome works for me.
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iamcreepingdeath
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Dec 28, 2008 10:03 PM
- Location: Mayer, MN
Re: Wasted Spark Install
So for cheapskates like me who don't want to spend $66 for each ignition coil, is there any reason I can't go with just a stock coil replacement from a GM car? They are on the order of $15 each on Rockauto. Any reason that wouldn't be sufficient for a boosted M30? Do I need the "extra power" from an MSD coil?
Also, this needs to be a sticky.
Also, this needs to be a sticky.
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iamcreepingdeath
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Dec 28, 2008 10:03 PM
- Location: Mayer, MN
Re: Wasted Spark Install
Since nobody answered my question above, I will answer it.
Instead of expensive MSD coils, I used cheap ebay knockoffs, I think for like $67 for the set of 3. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/324537815957)
Obligatory pic.
They seem to be working fine so far, but I started getting another issue, which may or may not be related. I was getting arcing between the aluminum bases of the coil drivers and the heat sink they were bolted to. The arcing was kind of jumping through the mounting hole, past the mica insulator (through the hole), despite using nylon screws.
I fixed it by adding a layer of electrical tape on to the heat sink. I realize this also insulates the heat transfer to the heat sink, but these things don't get all that hot anyway (they are supposed to just be warm to the touch with correct spark settings), so I've been running it like that. Kind of a stupid design for the spark driver to have an aluminum base that is actually electrically hot.
Instead of expensive MSD coils, I used cheap ebay knockoffs, I think for like $67 for the set of 3. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/324537815957)
Obligatory pic.
They seem to be working fine so far, but I started getting another issue, which may or may not be related. I was getting arcing between the aluminum bases of the coil drivers and the heat sink they were bolted to. The arcing was kind of jumping through the mounting hole, past the mica insulator (through the hole), despite using nylon screws.
I fixed it by adding a layer of electrical tape on to the heat sink. I realize this also insulates the heat transfer to the heat sink, but these things don't get all that hot anyway (they are supposed to just be warm to the touch with correct spark settings), so I've been running it like that. Kind of a stupid design for the spark driver to have an aluminum base that is actually electrically hot.