MyE28.com DEV

altus22 wrote:I'm glad you bought new. The 4 parts that you weren't going to buy new came up at $100 on BavAuto.

You're still going to grind your valves at least, right?

That will deff be done, as well as replacement of the seals, and visual inspection of the cam. I have some other cams if this one is too bad. I will replace the valve springs as well (for security). I may upgrade to a bit stronger spring, or shim the stock one. With the boost I think it would be a good idea.

Got the rocker shafts and cam out thanks to Peter Florance. He has the nice tool that allows you to move the rockers out of the way to allow easier removal of the camshaft. I cleaned and polished the cam it looks good. The rockers also look good, I plan to replace the valve springs, possible upgrade depending on pricing. I got the chain sprockets and put most of that on. I found the oil pump shimming to be a bit tedious.

Why not replace the rockers and shafts, doesn't add much $$ to the project.

wkohler wrote:Why not replace the rockers and shafts, doesn't add much $$ to the project.

Good advice. Even shade tree hacks like me make a point of it.

New cam = new rockers too.

Welded the return line on the oilpan, painted it since it was clean. Hopefully i'll have some time at work and knock out doing the valve job, and replacement of the valvesprings. I may do something a little different with them. I'm doing some flow bench research to see flow numbers as well. Bottom end is assembled, it was balanced before installation.

Nice bunghole.

mooseheadm5 wrote:Nice bunghole.

The welds on there were pretty, a guy came by work to do some headers for a racecar we have at the shop. He does aerospace welding, he has all these certs and whatever. At any rate he did a good job. Head work soon enough! I think i'm going to see if it has cracks first, than it'll recieve a valve job, i'm going to media blast the coolant passages. It cleans the gunk the large MART machine didn't get. I got some of the m30b35 factory flowbench numbers, i'm going to do some number crushing and see if its worthwhile to play with some porting. The top machinist at my work mentioned that fact that opening up the exhaust side, while it would allow a higher flow "CFM" of air, you may not get the same amount of turbo spool. The heat would dissipate faster do to the larger opening, which would negatively affect the turbo spool. So once again it comes down to what do you want with the motor. I personally want this thing to be a low end grunt tractor motor. With a single cam 2 valve, I think it's what they do best, and to try to force it to be a topend screamer is expensive, and just a waste IMO. If I wanted that I would've started with a 4 valve.