May 2011 Project e28s52t (Engine Management)
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Alfonso Bedoya
- Posts: 1326
- Joined: Sep 16, 2010 3:15 PM
- Location: Van Isle, B.C. Canada
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Kristian-S38
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Aug 25, 2010 3:47 PM
Update Early May 2011
Below are some images of the next stage of the project - ENGINE MANAGEMENT
Just to bring you up to speed - the battery relocation has been completed. This was more work then I had anticipated - DUH (my Charlie Sheen impression). Required a tray for the Optima, mounting the tray, mounting a master fuse holder, crimping the lugs on the end of some very large diameter cables. Did not have the crimping tool, had to borrow one. I hate not having all the right tools.
Did install my rear stress bar from Mason Engineering - that involved taking the rear struts back out to get it in - but it fit like a glove. Had it power coated to match the front - but it is so far in there - who will ever see it?
Reinstalled all the trunk stuff - cut out the bottom piece to clear the battery.
I had to buy an e34 drive shaft from a wrecking yard and have nose grafted into my e28 auto driveshaft - so that the larger guibo could be used. If I had a good e28 big six drive shaft - this would not have been necessary. Turned out really nice, but only when it is delivering power to the rear wheels will I say it is good.
Now on to the really hard stuff...engine management.
I ended up going with the Megasquirt 3 with MS3X, so I could support COP, sequential injection, boost control, other functions. I spoke with the guys at DIYAutotune.com and they guided me through the whole thing.
I have now pulled apart my S52 engine harness to eliminate all the unnecessary lines I wont be using and labeling everything, I mean everything- EVERTHING. There is a large amount of the harness that is NOT used, you can see my collection of dead e36 M3 nervous system bits.
It was pretty straight forward, but before I cut anything, I built a few very large tables in Excel so that I understood the translation between (1) the factory ECU (2) to the factory harness (3) to the MS3/MS3X harness (4) to the MS3 ECU. I used my e36 and e28 Bently Manuals over and over and over again. I also needed to graft the e28 C101 connector to the e36 CX20 connector - that turned out a bit harder than I thought. Around the e36, BMW starting running alot more logic through this connector (engine to chassis). I am still working on that one.
Couple of words of caution:
1 There are others who have posted tables on the net for e36 and e28 pinouts and wire colors - they are at best, about 80% accurate, so before you trust anyone (including me) check their homework.
2 There are mistakes in the Robert Bently manuals.
3 If in doubt, ohm out a line to make sure you are cutting or removing the right one. Because there are so many lines to the factory ECU (88 pins) - some colors are used more than once.
4 Megasquirt documentation is good, but the colors and pinout does not match between the documentation and physical box - check their homework.
5 Understand the logic of your harness/relays (use the Bentley manual) - in some cases I thought I knew what I was looking at, but after looking at more - I had the logic backwards - especially relay activation, some are 12V and some are ground.
I keep plugging away - this is taking forever and ever. I fear I will be willing this car to my kids with instructions on how to complete it.
PS - I will keep the ETA badge, and I have some 15" euro steelies to complete the sleeper look!
img]http://e28-535i.com/upload/IMG_1548.JPG[/img]
Just to bring you up to speed - the battery relocation has been completed. This was more work then I had anticipated - DUH (my Charlie Sheen impression). Required a tray for the Optima, mounting the tray, mounting a master fuse holder, crimping the lugs on the end of some very large diameter cables. Did not have the crimping tool, had to borrow one. I hate not having all the right tools.
Did install my rear stress bar from Mason Engineering - that involved taking the rear struts back out to get it in - but it fit like a glove. Had it power coated to match the front - but it is so far in there - who will ever see it?
Reinstalled all the trunk stuff - cut out the bottom piece to clear the battery.
I had to buy an e34 drive shaft from a wrecking yard and have nose grafted into my e28 auto driveshaft - so that the larger guibo could be used. If I had a good e28 big six drive shaft - this would not have been necessary. Turned out really nice, but only when it is delivering power to the rear wheels will I say it is good.
Now on to the really hard stuff...engine management.
I ended up going with the Megasquirt 3 with MS3X, so I could support COP, sequential injection, boost control, other functions. I spoke with the guys at DIYAutotune.com and they guided me through the whole thing.
I have now pulled apart my S52 engine harness to eliminate all the unnecessary lines I wont be using and labeling everything, I mean everything- EVERTHING. There is a large amount of the harness that is NOT used, you can see my collection of dead e36 M3 nervous system bits.
It was pretty straight forward, but before I cut anything, I built a few very large tables in Excel so that I understood the translation between (1) the factory ECU (2) to the factory harness (3) to the MS3/MS3X harness (4) to the MS3 ECU. I used my e36 and e28 Bently Manuals over and over and over again. I also needed to graft the e28 C101 connector to the e36 CX20 connector - that turned out a bit harder than I thought. Around the e36, BMW starting running alot more logic through this connector (engine to chassis). I am still working on that one.
Couple of words of caution:
1 There are others who have posted tables on the net for e36 and e28 pinouts and wire colors - they are at best, about 80% accurate, so before you trust anyone (including me) check their homework.
2 There are mistakes in the Robert Bently manuals.
3 If in doubt, ohm out a line to make sure you are cutting or removing the right one. Because there are so many lines to the factory ECU (88 pins) - some colors are used more than once.
4 Megasquirt documentation is good, but the colors and pinout does not match between the documentation and physical box - check their homework.
5 Understand the logic of your harness/relays (use the Bentley manual) - in some cases I thought I knew what I was looking at, but after looking at more - I had the logic backwards - especially relay activation, some are 12V and some are ground.
I keep plugging away - this is taking forever and ever. I fear I will be willing this car to my kids with instructions on how to complete it.
PS - I will keep the ETA badge, and I have some 15" euro steelies to complete the sleeper look!
img]http://e28-535i.com/upload/IMG_1548.JPG[/img]
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Black Steel
- Posts: 350
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- Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Adam W in MN
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- Location: Don't waste my motherf***in' time!
- Contact:
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Adam W in MN
- Posts: 5053
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Don't waste my motherf***in' time!
- Contact:
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Adam W in MN
- Posts: 5053
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Don't waste my motherf***in' time!
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FirstFives Dictator
- Posts: 849
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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I am back....
Lots of life changes - started a shop - very busy.
www.redballeurocar.com
Getting the e28s52t going too.
Look for updates soon.
W
www.redballeurocar.com
Getting the e28s52t going too.
Look for updates soon.
W