MyE28.com DEV

Toasted the head gasket today. Getting some ARP's and a MLS from Todd. I'll post some pics once the head is off. Got a little more work to do tomorrow evening before its off.

I'm debating on doing some upgrades to the head while it's off. However, time and budget are a factor since its my DD.

Well, that sucks. Hope it goes back together quick and easy.

Chris are you going to The Vintage this year?

b35 valve springs!!!!!!!! and new valve seals.

Sucks big time, you know I know.
I'm hoping to get my replacement head back by Wednesday so I can get it done by or on the weekend.
I'd love to score one of Todd's upgraded k27s, but $800 + mine for core is over the top for me.
That's more than the stage 4....

Coldswede - I will be at the vintage. Are you going?

BATESY wrote:b35 valve springs!!!!!!!! and new valve seals.

Did you buy the valve springs from BMW? How much were they? I'm going to price them up at work tomorrow.

I work for a BMW dearlership in seattle. I got them for cost plus 10. somewhere around $200 or so I think with tax. 4 parts a cyl. upper and lower retainers and both inner and outer springs.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=11&fg=25

25,26,27 and 29.

What is the sign you get when you "toast" the headgasket? Is it pretty obvious?

clongo wrote:Coldswede - I will be at the vintage. Are you going?

It is my firm intention to go to The Vintage. However, I'm starting a new job for a real slave driver next week. I'm not positive the timing is going to work out. I'll be unhappy if I don't attend, I'll pout for days.

wkohler wrote:What is the sign you get when you "toast" the headgasket? Is it pretty obvious?

On a turbo m30, it's usually pretty obvious.

Jeremy wrote:

wkohler wrote:What is the sign you get when you "toast" the headgasket? Is it pretty obvious?

On a turbo m30, it's usually pretty obvious.

What happens?

The immediate symptom is coolant loss due to over-pressurization of the cooling system. Sometimes its enough to trigger the level sensor and give you a check control warning. If the engine is run with a blown head gasket overheating usually starts shortly afterward.

How much boost were you running when this occurred?

wkohler wrote:

Jeremy wrote:

wkohler wrote:What is the sign you get when you "toast" the headgasket? Is it pretty obvious?

On a turbo m30, it's usually pretty obvious.

What happens?

Started to overheat. Pulled off the highway and found the coolant level in the expansion tank up to the top of the tank. The upper rad hose was rock solid too.

I did a pull on the highway and felt the car jerk twice for a split second. I let off immediately after I felt it but it was too late. I'm running 15psi intercooled with meth.

What kind of IAT are you seeing at that boost pressure?

No clue. I was running motronic 1.0 with a begi and Tcd chip. I was pushing it... But it lasted for a while. And I knew the setup was temporary.

New setup will be MLS gasket, ARP studs, MS2 extra from Todd and Peter, upgraded K27 turbo, and 50lb injectors. Will run 15psi and see how it holds up.

Update!

Got the front timing cover off getting ready to pull the head and found the timing chain guides in not so good shape. So now I'll be towing the car to my work so I can pull the motor on Saturday and do a complete reseal. Still have pulled the head since it will be much easier to do on a engine stand. Hopefully the internals are in good shape (crossing fingers) so this doesn't turn into a expensive build!

why pull the motor, just install new guides, slap the HG and studs, and rock that thing, wait for it to pop later on.

Because I would have to pull the lower timing cover to install the guides. And I have a oil pan leaking and would like to weld in my oil return fitting because it also seeps.

It only takes 30 min to pull the trans. After that I only have to unbolt the engine mounts and the motor is out of the car. It will make life a lot easier re sealing it on a stand. Plus I get to paint it and make it all pretty

clongo wrote:It only takes 30 min to pull the trans. After that I only have to unbolt the engine mounts and the motor is out of the car.

It’s a long slippery slope and you are sliding down at a rapid rate.

Duke wrote:

clongo wrote:It only takes 30 min to pull the trans. After that I only have to unbolt the engine mounts and the motor is out of the car.

It’s a long slippery slope and you are sliding down at a rapid rate.

I keep hearing that (Todd), lol. Pending the head being removed and everything looking ok inside the motor, its only going to get a complete reseal and cleanup of the exterior. The motor ran great prior to losing the head gasket. I wont/cant to get too involved in a full engine build. I just want a nice reliable setup that will get me to the 350-400whp range. I think with the ARP's, MLS, and standalone that shouldnt be too big of a issue. I guess i will be one of the first to see what a upgraded K27 can really do on a B34.

Actually you will not be first. I ran up to 21 psi on standard K27 with big FMIC for more then 2 years. Pulls very nicely to say at least. Didn't get it to the dyno, not easily available in part of the world I live in.

Thats pretty amazing since the stock 745i K27 can't move enough air mass to support that kind of boost without running unbelieveably high intake air temps.

turbodan wrote:Thats pretty amazing since the stock 745i K27 can't move enough air mass to support that kind of boost without running unbelieveably high intake air temps.

Yeah, i kept mine at 15psi and even then i think i was pushing it. I'm pretty excited to see what the upgraded unit can do with proper engine management.

I guess if thats what you want to do. I never pull the pan for timing covers. to much work.

personal experience with the k27-60 upgrade. big improvement. spool time is better and last a whole lot longer. finally got mine running right last night. turned it to 20psi to see what it would do. kinda nuts. right now its back to 16psi. still stupid but I havent had the time to really change the VE table for the larger intercooler and 20psi that Im shotting for.

BATESY wrote:I guess if thats what you want to do. I never pull the pan for timing covers. to much work.

personal experience with the k27-60 upgrade. big improvement. spool time is better and last a whole lot longer. finally got mine running right last night. turned it to 20psi to see what it would do. kinda nuts. right now its back to 16psi. still stupid but I havent had the time to really change the VE table for the larger intercooler and 20psi that Im shotting for.

If the oil pan wasnt leaking and the oil drain was right i would probably do it in car. However i think this would be easier since the trans comes out so easy.

I'm glad you like your upgraded turbo. My car felt really quick with the stock K27 at 15psi. So i'm hoping to see a big improvement with this turbo. Plus i will hopefully get some of my gas mileage back as i could never get it to run quite right off boost. It always ran around 13.0-13.5 AFR during partial throttle out of boost. Were you able to log IAT's at 20psi?

it was one pull I did for the fun of it. I have to see when It gets dry out to tune for the extra boost. My car has never really ran great off boost either. runs at 13.8 to 14.5afrs and I cant get it to idle below 1100rpms. tried everything.

I see. What size injectors are you running?

What are you using for idle control?

50lb injectors. 745i idle screw is all. idle on MS is set to B&G on/off.

So you're not using MS and there is an air bypass screw of some kind? I'm not familiar with the 745 parts.

If its idling high, its getting too much air. Either the air bypass is adjusted too high or the throttle body is not closing completely.