MyE28.com DEV

Hello guys, I hate that this is my introduction to everyone but life doesnt always work out the way we plan. I recently traded for chris's m106 swapped e28 and I have big plans for her. There is already a twin scroll manifold and an itb set up in the works but before I get to all of that I need to get the car started again. As it stands now I have no spark at the coil, I am currently getting between 8 an 9 v to the positive terminal on the coil. I am running ms1 with a meyhle 7 pin ignition module. I have replaced the module, I have 2 relays one which my hot wire from the battery feeds into and another that feeds my coil and fuel pump. There where a couple of extras in the glove and I threw those on but last night I bought some fresh ones so that I could properly check that box. When I check the signal coming to the module I am getting similar readings about 9v to the positive and I am reading 2.5 v from the ecu. Its my understanding that the ms1 signal is around 5 v and given that it is intermittent I was guessing the 2.5 was showing the average but I am new to this so tell me if I am wrong. I have peeled back all but a couple of inches of the loom from the coil to the module and found one area that has a connection where one of the wires is a little frayed I will be cutting and redoing that today. Basically I am going to start attacking this again as soon as I get off today in the hopes of getting her running for the leavenworth drive tomorrow, so any help or direction would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys,
Sahand

Turns out the relays in the glove box where no good because I put the new ones in and she fired right up.

I will be starting a build thread once I begin the manifold and intake set up.

It looks like my problems are not over, the wiring battle continues:

So when I got to the car on fri I installed the new relays and the car just started, I should have tried starting it again before putting in the relays(hind sight). I drove it around all night with no problem. I figured it was the main relay. The next morning I get up to go to the meet and she doesnt start. I went to the dealer picked up a couple of relays and went back to the house thinking I have a short thats frying the relay but the new one made no difference and I was getting 12v to the coil now with no spark. I let the car sit overnight, the next day it was hot out when I got back from lunch so I figured I would give it a try, started right up a couple of times in a row. 3 hours later it gets cold out tried to start it no start. WTF, I either have moisture trapped somewhere that is causing condensation when its cold(doesnt seem likely) or I have a break in a wire/ bad connection. From what I understand there are only a couple of sections of the harness that can cause my lack of spark, crank sensor to ms1, the wiring going from the coil to the ignition module/ground or the wire going from the megasquirt to the ignition module. The wire from the ms1 to the module is fine and is not in the engine bay so it doesnt seem that it would have been affected. If there is something else im missing I am ready to hear any advice. I am about to start peeling back the loom in all those areas hopefully I will either find a break or I will release the moisture.

Any ideas or help is much appreciated I am new to this model and motor so im doing my best to take in as much info as possible.

Thanks,
Sahand

megasquirt 1 doesn't do spark, so your stock ignition circuits would still be handling spark right?
I've seen slow cranking,due to cold,low battery,etc, will cause the vr sender to not generate the needed pulse.
good luck
marc

My understanding is that the module controls spark for the most part but the ms1 sends the signal to ground the coil causing the spark. I wish it was a battery issue but my battery is in good condition and it cranks fine.

Thanks,
Sahand

I don't think thats right.If I recall correctly the pulse trigger is only used to fire the injectors with ms1.If you have the three leds on your megasquirt, the first one should blink when you turn the key on,then flicker as you crank. If so you are getting pulse.
marc

Ok does it matter if its ms1 extra, the led is definitely turning on when I turn the ignition on. I cant see if its flickering because of where it is mounted but I can take it down to see. So what is the path for triggering ignition at the coil, crank sensor or vr to module to coil?

I have been trying to find the proper wiring for ms1 extra with a 7 pin ignition module but I have been having trouble. I guess the diagram that I was looking at was ms2 here is said diagram.

are you sure you're megasquirt 1?
I found this in megamanual

Okay, now that MegaSquirt® knows how much fuel to inject, how does it know when to inject the fuel? That is a function of the ignition input circuit. A signal is taken from the distributor or negative terminal of the coil. Ideally, there is one “spike” each time a cylinder fires. MegaSquirt injects fuel on even multiples of these signals.

Its megasquirt 1 extra this is what I found on ms1extra.com.


The Bosch module 0 227 100 137 / 0 227 100 139 is designed to be used with Hall effect and also takes care of the coil dwell period. The module trigger when pin 6 is grounded, but the dwell control prevents it sparking on the first trigger.


Pin 1 > (-) side of coil (is labelled "1" on the coil)
Pin 2 > Good Ground
Pin 3 > not used
Pin 4 > Switched 12v* (eg from (+)side of coil, labelled "15" on the coil)
Pin 5 > not used
Pin 6 > Spark output from Megasquirt (Pin 36 for a V3.0 PCB or pin 25 (X11) for a V2.2 PCB)
Pin 7 > not used. Not always present.

what are you using for pulse?
I thought m106 had vr sender not hall.
I'm using the m102 dizzy on my m106,it's a vr sender.
Has this car ever run since megasquirt installed?
marc

This car has been running for the past year. I was cleaning the engine bay a little and the car stopped running. It was idling while I was drying out the bay with some compressed air, which in hind sight was a horrible idea, when it just stopped. Then everything from my first post till now. So what I thought was the crank position sensor is actually working as the vr.

Thanks,
Sahand