MyE28.com DEV

So, the IP on dad's car was "resealed" but it's leaking badly from here:



This is a spare pump from the parts car I'm planning on resealing.

How much of a cluster jam am I getting into?

I couldn't find a good pictorial of rebuilding this thing.

If you look up information on VW pumps it will help a ton because they are pretty much the same exact thing.

http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild

There is a great DIY on re sealing the pump. Just make sure you mark the throttle linkages when you take them off and remember to preload the throttle spring when you put the pump back together. The trickiest part is putting it all back together, it was tough enough with two people in the car on a VW pump that didn't have the boost enrichment device on top.

Goodluck

Jon

I took the upper portion off, marking everything as I went, and it's not bad at all.

The problem came when I found out the VW IP kits we have at work are totally different. SO, I remembered we did an old Volvo 265 Diesel IP a year or so back....looked up the part #, found the kit online....it looks like what I need. Crossed it to a Cummins part, eyeballed it and it looks right. Just need to get a 17mm shaft seal instead of the 20mm one in the kit.

The old VW l.6 gaskets should work on these pumps, but a Volvo 265 kit shouldn't be much different. Anyway it is much easier to take the pumps apart then to put them back together. When I did it getting the rear distributer head back on was tough, and putting the pump top back on with the new gasket was tough. The biggest challenge like I said was getting all the linkages back on while pre-loading the throttle shaft.

Got it done.

BUT I kinda messed up the springs for the accelerator linkage. They popped, and I suspect they need to be wound around one more time...as the linkage won't retract as it should.




Those littls three sided nuts were interesting....chopped up a 12mm socket to use, so now I have a tool for the other one.

All in all, it's not that bad. I can't wait to open up the next one and start playing with the rotor head, etc.....

I actually bought the special tool, it wasn't that expensive so now I have it haha. Anyway the linkage is always the worst part to do on those pumps. I haven't actually tried to do it on a TD VE pump. Its so much easier to do it on a VW pump without the ALDA piece.
Jon

So, we have a setup here to spin the pumps with an electric motor before installing them on the car. Popped my pump in there and spun it.....nothing.

I'm thinking, and so is the resident diesel guru, that the vanes in the pump are jammed in, thus, no pressure. This thing had all kindsa varnish inside it that I meticulously cleaned off.....but I neglected to take the vane pump apart.....

So.....I'll be digging back into it.....

Yay.

....so, I've got the vanes freed up, everything back together.....but still nothing coming from the output nozzles, maybe a little spurt here or there. I remove the nozzles and it shoots fuel out. Nozzles are all clean and clear....I made sure before putting it back together.

Suggestions?

Do you have the fuel shutoff valve open while testing?

Kyle in NO wrote:Do you have the fuel shutoff valve open while testing?

I'm going to admit....

I'm learning.

I didn't even think to do that.

I be sure to bring some taterclippins to Vintage as a thank you.

IT LIVES!

Awesome....now to swap it onto the car....yay!

I must be dense. I can't get this IP static timing thing to work.

It's all together, but I've got nothing coming out of the injection pump.

I do have 12v at the fuel cut off solenoid.....and I had the pump working on a bench before install. I loosed a couple injector lines at the distributor head and they remain dry when I crank the engine. I do have fuel going from the filter assy to the pump.

This thing is killing me.

So....

Messing with it tonight....I'm trying and trying to bleed the lines. Nothing. Using ATF so I can see where the fuel is going. After running through like 3 liters of ATF, inspecting for leaks, etc....everything is clean. I unhook the return line. It's going there.

What did I screw up? This thing worked perfectly on the bench.

Any resolution to this? I'm having a similar issue

87gntahoe wrote:Any resolution to this? I'm having a similar issue

I haven't touched it. Been busy Vintage prepping.

So here we are, back again.

I have nothing coming from the distributor head. I took the pump back off and put it on the bench tester. When I remove the center bolt, fluid shoots out with gusto. When I remove an injector nozzle, again....fluid shoots out. The shut off solenoid is working and I'm giving it 12v during testing.

I'm at a total loss. The thing worked fine on the bench before I put it in the car, installed in the car and nothing. Now on the bench, nothing.

I'm about to just quit with this stupid thing. This is ridiculous.

Got it all figured out. Turns out the shut off solenoid worked when it wanted to, then didn't work when it didn't want to. So nice of it to get flaky after such a huge job....So I gutted it and the pump pumps and the car starts. Now to get a replacement and be done.

Quick vid of the rig to run the pump on the bench.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkYpM36YR9U

...and about two hours later, installed and idling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTkjiLSXANs

I thought it had something to do with the shutoff valve. It was the only thing that made sense.

Kyle in NO wrote:I thought it had something to do with the shutoff valve. It was the only thing that made sense.

Yeah.....so nice of it to fail when I'm doing something this involved that I've never done before.

But it runs now, and drives. My god this thing is slow. Trans kickdown needs to be adjusted but overall it drives well enough. Now that it's running and driving I'll probably let the diesel guy at work do the fine tune IP static timing shit.....show me how to do it right. It idles well and doesn't smoke badly, etc, so I think it's close enough. I just kinda moved the pump until it started and idled.

SO I replaced the injector with the pulse sensor because someone had broken the wires and tried, badly, to solder them up, then they broke on me....that's done. What's that do anyway? The "INJECTION" light is off on the check panel now though...

Anyway, fooled around with getting the IP static timing in spec....it seems it doesn't want to move all the way to the .7-.8mm zone specified in the writeup. It's like it's at it's very tip top of adjustment. The thing starts (with a strong battery) and runs. It does nail though....and it will only rev to 3500rpm.

I figure I'd just bring the red diesel over and get everything set up like on that one. It runs great.

Any comments or advise is appreciated!

Methinks it's pretty close to where it wants to be. We'll see how it cold starts in the morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uq8huqlCmLg