MyE28.com DEV

I want to replace my chrome window molding with the blcak M5 style anyone know wher i could buy the molding?

Someone might be selling what you're looking for but have you thought about simply sanding the chrome and painting it black with shadowline paint?

Fox
Denver, CO

If you just paint it, it will last longer than the M5 black ones because they're black plastic and will shrink more quickly than the "chrome ones." Now, if yours are in bad shape (chunks missing, etc, I'd still go with the chrome as they're cheaper and just paint them after installing (if you paint before, then bend it might not be a good idea).

Good ruck.

my new blacks ones are 5 years old and are still nice fwiw

IMO, the painted ones wont last. Had mine professionally painted, and after a year or so, the black paint had chipped off from road debris (especially around windshield & leading edge of moulding on b-pillar). And bird crap does a great job of removing the paint as well.

I will have the factory shadowline windshield moulding off my car available soon, but not sure what its worth.

Raj wrote:IMO, the painted ones wont last. Had mine professionally painted, and after a year or so, the black paint had chipped off from road debris (especially around windshield & leading edge of moulding on b-pillar). And bird crap does a great job of removing the paint as well.

I will have the factory shadowline windshield moulding off my car available soon, but not sure what its worth.

I painted the ones on both E21s about 8 years ago - still look just as good as the day I painted them. Yep, I was 14.

I've heard a couple of stories of the molding slightly bleeding black paint unto the car over time and secondly I am always trying to loose a little weight here and there so I can get the most out of performance. If I can't find some new molding I'm gonna paint my existing molding...

5verflyATL wrote:I've heard a couple of stories of the molding slightly bleeding black paint unto the car over time and secondly I am always trying to loose a little weight here and there so I can get the most out of performance. If I can't find some new molding I'm gonna paint my existing molding...

Yeah I think you'll be alright with painting them. As you probably know, it's all in the prep work. Be sure your surface is clean and sanded with super fine sand paper. That'll roughen up the surface and make it easier for the trim paint to stick. Good luck!

Fox
Denver, CO

been following this post.. what is the best paint to use for the aluminum window trim (i.e., chrome)? Also, does it need to be primed first?

Use the same paint on the plastic parts too?

bigdaddy wrote:been following this post.. what is the best paint to use for the aluminum window trim (i.e., chrome)? Also, does it need to be primed first?

Use the same paint on the plastic parts too?

SEM 39143. Please don't ask what "SEM" means!

Shawn,
What does SEM mean?

John in VA wrote:Shawn,
What does SEM mean?

Your local BMW dealer can still get the M5 shadowline trim. Cost for all windows is ~ $700. BTW, the raingutters are no longer available in shadowline. The original parts are powdercoated, not painted. Trim tape comes off easily and looks crappy and discolored after a few months. Painting is an option and yes its all about prep. I've had luck with painting my raingutters and it has lasted through ice and snow with no chips, but it was a bitch of a job. Used 400 grit sand paper to get down through the chrome anodizing then ended up with 0000 steel wool till they were nice and smooth again. Also used adhesion promoter, primer and black trim paint available at most auto parts stores (Kragen, Checker...). Painting the side window trim and the lower windshield and rear glass moldings will be a bad choice because getting those pieces back in the groove requires a lot of rubbing (use plastic tools from BavAuto) and the paint will likely come off. The plastic trim and corner pieces for the front and rear glass is fairly cheap and readily available from the dealer.

Good luck with the project. It's a great look when everything is shadowline, which is why it is so desirable. Don't forget the taillights, antenna and interior door panel trim.

That's why you paint them when they're on the car.

If you want to do the job right, they need to come off the car. If you want them to look like you had them done by Earl Scheib, by all means, leave them on. My vote is to buy the available parts from the dealer and paint the rest.

BTW, you HAVE to remove the lower trim pieces on the windshield and rear glass because they slip inside the window gasket. If prepped/painted on the car they will definitely look like crap; that is, if you care about that...but if you don't, why bother painting them in the first place. Better to do it right than to waste your time. Just my .02

Murfinator wrote:If you want to do the job right, they need to come off the car. If you want them to look like you had them done by Earl Scheib, by all means, leave them on. My vote is to buy the available parts from the dealer and paint the rest.

BTW, you HAVE to remove the lower trim pieces on the windshield and rear glass because they slip inside the window gasket. If prepped/painted on the car they will definitely look like crap; that is, if you care about that...but if you don't, why bother painting them in the first place. Better to do it right than to waste your time. Just my .02

You're all assumption - all the damn time. You haven't seen the ones I painted.

And you're all about making as many frivolous posts as possible on nearly every thread. Perhaps you should spend more time on your cars and less time scanning through this board and making lame comments. Your sarcastic and hostile remarks don't belong on this board. I'm trying to make positive suggestions from my own experiences. The majority of your posts aren't helpful in any way and detract from the quality of this forum.

I've seen at least one of your cars and it looks pretty hacked. If you want to see one of mine just look at the front cover of the August StreetTrucks magazine. My e28 isn't bad either.

Hope to see you at Bimmerfest

My boots aren't high enough to stay out of the s... dishing going on here. Lets stick to the point.
Since this guy 5verflyATL lives in Atlanta my home town I want to help him out.
I'm a professional wood finisher and I know you think... so what?
We'll it also help's me do a pretty damm good job of finishing metal and fiberglass. You should see my sailboat.
Shawn has the key here. Aluminum moldings have to be primed with a etching type primer. That's the only way the paint will stay for any length of time. You should see my black bumpers? Sanding is important but you don't want to go so fine with the paper (no steelwool) that the surface is so slippery that nothing will stick to it. The paint needs a tooth to hang on to. 400 wet sanding would be best.
The primer can then be applied and then wet sand that with 600 paper. Careful don't sand it all off. the object is to get it smooth and fill any tiny voids. Put a few drops of dishwashing soap in a bucket of water and then dip the paper in the bucket.This helps the paper slide along and carry away the particles. Keep the water flowing or the paper will clog up and not sand. Don't be cheap about the paper either. It does not last very long and you'll just be waisting your time.
Take great care and time masking using the blue or green masking tape from the local H depot. Use it along the edges of the metal then use brown masking paper which comes in rolls at the H depot and run that along the first row of tape you applied and tape it to the first row of tape that is next to the metal. this masking paper is 12-15" wide so you should then put more rows or plastic sheeting to cover the body. You don't want primer and black paint on your white car.
Don't use newspaper as the ink can transfer to your paint.

Once you get a really good base coat of primer
Buy some Du-Plo Trim Paint from NAPA or Pep Boys (there could be others). This is very professional paint in cans. The nozzle's are amazing.
You can change the fan spray to any angle you want so your hand movement will correspond with the angle of the molding you are working on. You can also wet sand this if you have some dust or problem areas. Oh, I forgot to tell you get a tack rag at the H store and wipe the area very carefully right before you spray. This will pick up any dirt and remove it from the surface. Pay attention to the weather. Read the frigging can!!
If it's very high humidity your paint will not stick. Don't paint in the sun. The paint will dry to fast and look like flat black paint.
If it's a little cool out like 60 or so warm up the cans in front of a heater. Be careful not to get them to close as they will blow up! Go easy on the application, runs are a mess and can ruin everything you have done trying to get them out. 3-4 fine coats
is much better. Same with the primer. Test spray on a smooth piece of cardboard so you can see how much paint comes out of the nozzle. One other thing, before you start sanding wipe down all the molding with alcohol that you can get at the H store. And don't drink this stuff it will kill you. This will remove any wax, silicone (bad stuff for paint) or oil before you start sanding. You don't want to sand this stuff right into the surface.
Questions??? Email me and I'll do my best to help you out. I can even give you a phone number as my typing skills suck.
I have used the basics of this process to put a clear finish on my chrome moldings that are beyond polish. The clear fills all the tiny cracks and makes them look clear and shiny again.
Clear acrylic made by guess who??? Dup-lo.
Good luck and let me know how you do?
Man, that's more than I've typed in months.

I'm impressed, nice write up Gary