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I had 2 mechanics tell me that my car wont start due to the computer, after replacing starting coils, dist cap, and some sensor. So i am looking for a computer now. The production date is like 10/87 or something. i cant remember for sure. Let me know if you have any laying around or know where to get a used comp, since i am on a budget. Thanks Oh yeah its an auto.

Sorry, I don't have a 2nd spare anymore - Have you tried calling Bimmerhaus in Broomfield? And, any mechanic who works on foreign cars like ours should be able to access an ECU through their used parts vendors - I've done it several times, although they will likely be more expensive. At least, if it doesn't work when installed, they will replace it within a certain time period, say, 30 days.

I'm curious, though, as to the reason why they insist that it's not working - even for many 'professionals', who don't often see cars like ours, it's a knee-jerk reaction to assume that the brain is dead, when, depending on what's going on with your car, it could be something else. Are you convinced it's the ECU and not something else, like the main relay or a reference sensor?

One last thought - you could join Colorado E28 Group on yahoo and post a message there, asking if anyone has one. This is a local E28 community that has some fairly active and knowledgeable people in it. Do a search on yahoo.

I have one remain from 'Programa' - $100 shipped , or used in good working shape - $48 shipped

Isn't there a forum member here who stashes used but "in good order" ECUs? I can't remember their name, but I thought they had a ton of them. Keep looking if you have the time (that is, unless you need to get your car going right now). Just my $0.02.

i have several ECUs for every E28 for 55 shipped including a 30 day warranty upon exchange. M5 ECU NOT available at that price.

shoot me a email at jspec20 at hotmail dot com if interested.

Well we have already replaced the reference sensor, the coil, the distrtibutor cap. and the guy says that he is not getting the right info back from the ecu with his program. Now im not too car savvy, but i am trusdting this decision since two seperate mechanics independantly told me this is the case. BTW the car cranks but just doesnt catch and stay going. Now If i can get one of these for this price under 100 bucks i cant afford not to try it. The a hole first mechanic tried to make me spend 1300 bucks for it. ( and the f dented the hood as well, I never liked mechanics.) I will pm one of you if i decide to pick up one of those ecu's, thanks

I don't know that you can test an ECU with a "program". The BMW Service Manual talks about a universal service adapter that plugs into the harness, but I doubt anyone is using that. As I recall, the test for the ECU involves taking various readings from the harness connector - if all of the readings are per spec (see Bentley's, and ruling out any other mechanical OR electrical issues such as a main relay) then the ECU is dead. The quick fix is to swap in a known working unit - many BMW mechanics use this same trick with an ECU off the shelf in their shop. You can't lose anything by buying another ECU - you should have a backup on hand anyway, and, if it solves the problem, you'll know what to buy next: a second ECU as a backup.

You didn't mention the main relay. The manual specifically says the first thing you start with is the main relay. And, it troubles me to see all of that stuff replaced - all of which could be tested to determine if it works or not. You don't replace stuff like this unless it doesn't work. In fairness, sometimes an ECU can take out a coil. But for all of this to go bad at once? Hard to believe.

Before I'd do anything, I'd buy a replacement main relay at the dealership - take your old one along to physically match it to the replacement. Otherwise, you can (or your mechanic can) test for power from the main relay by disconnecting a harness connector from one of the fuel injectors, and testing for voltage "between the red/white wire of the connector and ground with the ignition on." This will verify the main relay is working. At that point, I'd probably spring for an ECU.

Where are you in Colorado, anyway? Assuming you need an 059 box, I have a 2nd ECU that I could install temporarily to see if the car will fire or run. And, have you checked Pull-N-Save in Aurora? Last time I was there, they had 2 E28's in the yard. You could also try Advance Foreign.

well first off all of this crap that was replaced was all due to a mechanic that probably knew nothing about this car. Since I'm no mechanic the only things I do i learn while doing, (which has been very fun.) But this was something i couldnt troubleshoot myself.

I did pick up an ecu from someone here in Denver, But when the guy put it in he realized the "plug for the code thing was different" I assume i picked up the wrong ecu, since i remember seeing two different ones.

The main relay is something that the hays manual didnt mention if I remember correctly. I guess I should take that out and have it Tested or get a new one. I really am at a loss.

i think the real only things that wouldnt cause a spark are

bad reference sensors
bad main relay
bad OBC relay
dead battery
bad coil
bad ECU

did you get a purple 059 ECU? what year is your car? (NOT production date).

i just looked and I did get the 059 purple sticker ecu. The car is a 87'. Im not sure what the original ecu was since the guy decided not to leave both in it when i went to pick them up this evening.

You can test the main relays operation by running the test I described in my earlier post. This will at least eliminate this as a source of the problem.

The 059 unit (yes, it has a purple label that identifies it) is correct for your car. It must have a 35 point connector (2 row), otherwise you have the wrong unit. If it does not have a 35 point connector on the unit, it will not fit your cars harness. The 87-88 528e's have a different 55 point connector (3 row).

You need to get the original ECU back, it's yours, not his (I hate it when mechanics do stuff like this!).