E28 525i 1JZGTE
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E28 525i 1JZGTE
Hello,
I have an M30 525 E28, I have brought a Toyota 1JZGTE and auto box arriving today, I have measured these engines and sump configuration and am going to put the two together.
1, I know some people prefer BMW engines etc, I have no problem with this, but please keep your negative comments to yourselves as I like what I like, cheers.
2, I will be making a copy of the mount adapters if anyone likes the idea let me know I will post the measurements of the mounts.
3, I can start up a diary of the swap if anyone here is intersted.
4, Today is the 8th Jan, I will have this conversion on the road driving completed by February 1st.
If anyone has done this conversion with a stock toyota ECU and can offer any advice or ways to make my life easier i welcome any comments, If anyone is in New Zealand and wants to help or check it out for themselves, let me know.
cheers, I love the E28 that is why i am here having owned 5 in UK Greece and now New Zealand, for me the 1JZGTE is the perfect power upgrade for an already well sorted car.
Nelson
I have an M30 525 E28, I have brought a Toyota 1JZGTE and auto box arriving today, I have measured these engines and sump configuration and am going to put the two together.
1, I know some people prefer BMW engines etc, I have no problem with this, but please keep your negative comments to yourselves as I like what I like, cheers.
2, I will be making a copy of the mount adapters if anyone likes the idea let me know I will post the measurements of the mounts.
3, I can start up a diary of the swap if anyone here is intersted.
4, Today is the 8th Jan, I will have this conversion on the road driving completed by February 1st.
If anyone has done this conversion with a stock toyota ECU and can offer any advice or ways to make my life easier i welcome any comments, If anyone is in New Zealand and wants to help or check it out for themselves, let me know.
cheers, I love the E28 that is why i am here having owned 5 in UK Greece and now New Zealand, for me the 1JZGTE is the perfect power upgrade for an already well sorted car.
Nelson
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really. I've never heard of that engine. It is still twin turbo and all that mess? If it is anywhere near as amazing as the 2JZ then I bet that is a very fun motor.turbodan wrote:2.5 vs 3.0 displacementmisha wrote:whats the difference between the 1JZ and the 1JZ motors?
Sounds like a cool project.
What car does it come from? Something euro or Japanese spec for sure.
I believe he meant to say the difference between the 1JZ and 2JZ engine. Dan is right, the main difference is displacement. The 1JZ head will bolt onto a 2JZ block. I think the 2JZ swap with NAS is where it's at...misha wrote:really. I've never heard of that engine. It is still twin turbo and all that mess? If it is anywhere near as amazing as the 2JZ then I bet that is a very fun motor.turbodan wrote:2.5 vs 3.0 displacementmisha wrote:whats the difference between the 1JZ and the 1JZ motors?
Sounds like a cool project.
What car does it come from? Something euro or Japanese spec for sure.
fukken savedBig Bronze Rim wrote:I believe he meant to say the difference between the 1JZ and 2JZ engine. Dan is right, the main difference is displacement. The 1JZ head will bolt onto a 2JZ block. I think the 2JZ swap with NAS is where it's at...misha wrote:really. I've never heard of that engine. It is still twin turbo and all that mess? If it is anywhere near as amazing as the 2JZ then I bet that is a very fun motor.turbodan wrote:2.5 vs 3.0 displacementmisha wrote:whats the difference between the 1JZ and the 2JZ motors?
Sounds like a cool project.
What car does it come from? Something euro or Japanese spec for sure.
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The 1jz-gte uses twin CT12A turbochargers. Yahama had some design influence on that engine, they have some badges scattered across it. Not my favorite of the Toyota lineup, however very respectable. I think if I did this project I would use a 7mgte out of the toyota supra turbo (80's)(Parts are easier to come by also) Well where I live anyway, looks as if you are from another country. I'd like to see how this project progresses, but why a slushbox!?
There is no way I would ever use a 7MGTE over a 1 or 2JZ engine. They are a far superior design and definitely don't have the headgasket sealing issues of the 7M engine.Scottinva wrote:The 1jz-gte uses twin CT12A turbochargers. Yahama had some design influence on that engine, they have some badges scattered across it. Not my favorite of the Toyota lineup, however very respectable. I think if I did this project I would use a 7mgte out of the toyota supra turbo (80's)(Parts are easier to come by also) Well where I live anyway, looks as if you are from another country. I'd like to see how this project progresses, but why a slushbox!?
Well for a superior engine the 2jz is it, however I was going off more bang for the buck I quess. I know 7m's well so that's the main reason I would use them. My friend has the 7m engine and just uses the apr headbolts and a metal headgasket. He has no problems and makes a hefty 510RWHPBig Bronze Rim wrote:There is no way I would ever use a 7MGTE over a 1 or 2JZ engine. They are a far superior design and definitely don't have the headgasket sealing issues of the 7M engine.Scottinva wrote:The 1jz-gte uses twin CT12A turbochargers. Yahama had some design influence on that engine, they have some badges scattered across it. Not my favorite of the Toyota lineup, however very respectable. I think if I did this project I would use a 7mgte out of the toyota supra turbo (80's)(Parts are easier to come by also) Well where I live anyway, looks as if you are from another country. I'd like to see how this project progresses, but why a slushbox!?
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Hi All.. I am trying to upload video to Youtube and will put the link here when it goes through...
So... The conversion is faily straightforward... but first let me answer a few of the remarks on this thread first
1JZGTE, because although it is 2.5 over the 2JZ 3 liter, the 1JZ is a far vetter revving engine, the 2JZ in stock trim struggles to rev hard... plus where I live in New Zealand the 1JZ with Loom Computer Auto Box and all sensors you need to power up and play costs $1750 or so... cheaper if you wat round for a deal or more expencive if you go to a wrecker... The 2JZGTE will run me $4500 for the same kit, you do the maths, that E28 I brought was a mint garage kept 1 owner car with an M30 engine that had popped reverse so it cost me $400
Hello to the Greek lads, Kalimera Ti Kannis? I lived in Athens all last year, awesome place... would love to see a 1JZ in a BMW on those slippery greek roads, especially the Korinthos to Patras road would be fun....
Auto box for a few reasons... cheaper... they can handle 500hp easy and change quicker than an manual and you can lock it in gears to hold slides... you can also easily give it a manual valve body and shift kit the box to drive like a manual, trust toyota to think of everything... plus it is the same box with sesor variations that toyota use behind all their big HP engines, the 3040L- series box.... and the main reason is this car is going to be my daily driver and a bit of a sleeper, I would like to be able to park it on the side of the road without worrying every punk is going to try to steal it
So... The conversion is faily straightforward... but first let me answer a few of the remarks on this thread first
1JZGTE, because although it is 2.5 over the 2JZ 3 liter, the 1JZ is a far vetter revving engine, the 2JZ in stock trim struggles to rev hard... plus where I live in New Zealand the 1JZ with Loom Computer Auto Box and all sensors you need to power up and play costs $1750 or so... cheaper if you wat round for a deal or more expencive if you go to a wrecker... The 2JZGTE will run me $4500 for the same kit, you do the maths, that E28 I brought was a mint garage kept 1 owner car with an M30 engine that had popped reverse so it cost me $400
Hello to the Greek lads, Kalimera Ti Kannis? I lived in Athens all last year, awesome place... would love to see a 1JZ in a BMW on those slippery greek roads, especially the Korinthos to Patras road would be fun....
Auto box for a few reasons... cheaper... they can handle 500hp easy and change quicker than an manual and you can lock it in gears to hold slides... you can also easily give it a manual valve body and shift kit the box to drive like a manual, trust toyota to think of everything... plus it is the same box with sesor variations that toyota use behind all their big HP engines, the 3040L- series box.... and the main reason is this car is going to be my daily driver and a bit of a sleeper, I would like to be able to park it on the side of the road without worrying every punk is going to try to steal it
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I will get pics up after the weekend, the youtube thing isnt working.
-M30 and auto out
-trial fitted box and front sump 1JZ, (Has to be a front sump engine) if you get a rear sump just buy an NA 2JZ front sump engine for cheap as all the parts are a direct bolto on convertion, I have changed the rear sump 1JZ to front sump. It clears the cross member by 80mm or more...
-Engine mounts... use the BMW rubbers and Toyota Alloy mouting brackets on the engine...buy or make 100x50 box section 40mm wide and drill accordingly, this is the right front mount DONE.
Left front is a 75x40 box section 40mm wide and you will need to weld this in place as it sits slightly behind the BMW engine mounting hole
-the gearbox mount from an auto will bolt straight up, if you dont have sliding rails for your gearbox bolts on your chassis you may need to weld a 30mmx80mm wide flat plate onto the front of your factory gearbox mount and drill 2 holes in it.
-the auto box will clear the tunnel by 2mm either side at the rear... I decided to get out a rubber mallet and give it 5mm eaither side by hitting out the tunnel
-Trans oil cooler lines, I am using the toyota box and the oil lines for the trans come out the right side where the BMW ones come out the left, however the cooler is fed into the radiator on the right, this is easily fixed I unbolted the pipes from the left chassis rail and front and have modified them to run down the right and straight into the box... gives better flow i imagine
-This doesnt HAVE to be done as the engine cleared the brakes but as a precaution because it was close I unbolted the brake booster (I have a barrel type hydraulic one on my car) and put a 5mm shim under the engine side of it, basically it just moves it over slightly giving the engine room to move if it wants to
-tonight I had the engine out for the last time getting all the final things done before it sits in permanently, new cam belt, tighten all the water lines, attach the box wire the starter and alternator to power, will drop it in tomorrow andthen get the prop shaft made up and wiring sorted then I am going to take it down the road and smoke out a set of tires just cause I can...
cant think of anything else at the moment... will post a bunch of video on youtube tomorrow of progress
-M30 and auto out
-trial fitted box and front sump 1JZ, (Has to be a front sump engine) if you get a rear sump just buy an NA 2JZ front sump engine for cheap as all the parts are a direct bolto on convertion, I have changed the rear sump 1JZ to front sump. It clears the cross member by 80mm or more...
-Engine mounts... use the BMW rubbers and Toyota Alloy mouting brackets on the engine...buy or make 100x50 box section 40mm wide and drill accordingly, this is the right front mount DONE.
Left front is a 75x40 box section 40mm wide and you will need to weld this in place as it sits slightly behind the BMW engine mounting hole
-the gearbox mount from an auto will bolt straight up, if you dont have sliding rails for your gearbox bolts on your chassis you may need to weld a 30mmx80mm wide flat plate onto the front of your factory gearbox mount and drill 2 holes in it.
-the auto box will clear the tunnel by 2mm either side at the rear... I decided to get out a rubber mallet and give it 5mm eaither side by hitting out the tunnel
-Trans oil cooler lines, I am using the toyota box and the oil lines for the trans come out the right side where the BMW ones come out the left, however the cooler is fed into the radiator on the right, this is easily fixed I unbolted the pipes from the left chassis rail and front and have modified them to run down the right and straight into the box... gives better flow i imagine
-This doesnt HAVE to be done as the engine cleared the brakes but as a precaution because it was close I unbolted the brake booster (I have a barrel type hydraulic one on my car) and put a 5mm shim under the engine side of it, basically it just moves it over slightly giving the engine room to move if it wants to
-tonight I had the engine out for the last time getting all the final things done before it sits in permanently, new cam belt, tighten all the water lines, attach the box wire the starter and alternator to power, will drop it in tomorrow andthen get the prop shaft made up and wiring sorted then I am going to take it down the road and smoke out a set of tires just cause I can...
cant think of anything else at the moment... will post a bunch of video on youtube tomorrow of progress
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another one for now... tonight the engine goes into its new home... bolt that sucker in and start the wiring... hopefully that wont be too bad...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cw7s50Soho
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cw7s50Soho
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