MyE28.com DEV

Edit: Update and thread revival.

Time to assemble this turbo build that I have been gathering/ hoarding parts for.
-B35 built into a b34 block (refreshed shortly before my posession, resealed/ gasketed by me)
-745i turbo (soon to be TCD upgraded), manifold, and oil filter housing
-733i flywheel + m5 clutch
-2 1/2" cat-less exhaust
-More to come

Future plans for high output bottom end after the system is functional.















I think this is the right sub forum for this question, as this build is intended to be for FI.

Anyway, I have search around quite a bit and already know about the low CR and many of the other things that go with the combo. I was just wondering about personal experience with this setup and if it "makes the most sense" and/ or "best bang for the buck".

I have a 300- 350 rwhp goal which I think means about 9-12 PSI, and here's what my plan is so far:

B35 head and intake manifold (bone stock but cleaned, inspected, milled, and new stem seals)
B34 bottom end (refreshed with rings and bearings and cut deck surface)
joined with MLS gasket and ARP studs
745i manifold
my existing 2.5" "high flow" (no cat) magnaflow exhaust
front mount inter cooler cleverly hidden behind IS dam
?? turbo charger
?? fuel management

I know there is a lot more to it than just bolting a charger in place and plumbing it through an intercooler, but those are the parts I've decided I would like to gather and use to get the ball rolling. I still need some help determining what turbo is going to suit my needs, and whether to chip a DME or just run MS. In any case (with my budget) it will be several weeks before I have my engine assembled, and probably a couple of months before I'm ready for a charger unit. I am mostly looking for input about my parts choices and seeing who has run it and if I'm better off with a high compression combo (for less low down lag).

just use the whole b35 with the MLS and studs and be happy with a nice responsive off boost engine, the only way id go for the really low compression of the hybrid m30 is if i wanted to run retarded boost levels

The sub 8:1 is only needed if you plan to run your motor to 20+ psi

I'm at 8.8:1 and I'm running 17-18psi on 91 octane (with a little something extra in the summer) with no problems.

300whp is easily achievable with 10psi on a 60-1 (or similar). If you use the b35 head on the b34 block you'll only be hurting spool.

Do what Winfred says and use a whole b35 motor.


The M106 manifold can be ported and re-drilled for a T3 flange, however you're still left with a 25 year old wastegate which is crap.

Yeah, I would probably go for the whole b35 too.

I initially ran a b34 and during a complete rebuild I went with the b35 upper end. I made 300whp at 10psi using a 60-1. I still have yet to see the full potential of the system since the build. I'm currently running a 1bar spring that I have not gotten dyno numbers on. I did make some dyno runs, but ran into a situation with bad fuel and a discrepancy with boost readings. I wasn't able to get accurate results. The best run was 360/407 with severely retarded timing. I wouldn't neccessarily say the hybrid setup is unresponsive off boost though. If you plan on running less than 12psi, you could probably get away with a stock headgasket and studs. That's what I'm using now and the engine saw several runs at 22 psi(unintentionally) with no ill effects. I'll add that going from a b34 at 20psi to a the hybrid setup and 1 bar required upgraded fuel pumps and a serious bump in fuel above 10psi. It also required an increase in intercooler capacity to keep intake temps the same.

M. Holtmeier wrote:. It also required an increase in intercooler capacity to keep intake temps the same.

This on the TCD W/A?

George wrote:

M. Holtmeier wrote:. It also required an increase in intercooler capacity to keep intake temps the same.

This on the TCD W/A?

Yes. More specifically I needed additional heat exchangers.

Thanks for the quick replies. I am definitely looking to get closer to the 350 mark, so based on what I have read I'll be shooting for more like 12 PSI. The only problem is that I already have a few b34 bottom ends at my disposal, and that I have zero b35 bottom ends. I will have to see if i can get a hold of some b35 reciprocating parts. I have heard that you could possibly run b35 pistons with just a honing if the cylinder walls are all straight.

I would like to refresh the bottom end to avoid having to take it apart again. With that said has anybody swapped pistons into a b34 block? How did things work out and am I better off just getting a b35 short block?

LUcas,
There are B35s aplenty at the Sacramento yards.

Compression test before you buy of course.

And you can get the whole harness/fuel rail/intake mani to go with it, for about $250.

Find a single mass flywheel from an e12 and bolt it on and out the door with a nice setup.

Yeah... That is a pretty unbeatable price. I think they are doing some kinda 2/3 off sale pretty soon (unless i just missed it). I will definitely have to see whats around at the yards.

BTW I did get your email and was busy when I got it (or maybe just lazy) and then just flat out forgot about it. I just sent a join request. Also, did you ever have the chance to get that seat skin?

Found a semi pleasant surprise when removing the cylinder head from the block. B35 PISTONS! This things been gone thought a while back. I can tell because a bunch of stuff is marked in the head and block. Just out of curiosity, how do you tell if its a b34 or early b35 block? Mine has the b34 filter housing, but couldn't it have been bolted onto a b35?

Try putting the vin into realoem. Depending on the model/year you can determine if it's and early b35 or not. Does it have all the mounting points? That could also be indicative of a b35 unless the b34s had them too. Not sure about that.

What does the casting on the side of the block say?

cvillebimmer wrote:Try putting the vin into realoem. Depending on the model/year you can determine if it's and early b35 or not. Does it have all the mounting points? That could also be indicative of a b35 unless the b34s had them too. Not sure about that.

I don't have the VIN for the engine. It came from someone's bastard-ized e28.

mooseheadm5 wrote:What does the casting on the side of the block say?

There is one that reads 1 287 639, but I assume you mean the other casting number... I'm not in front of that block now...

I think that makes it a B34 block. Check for casting dates. That will definitively tall you if it is a B34 or B35 block.

ElGuappo wrote:Find a single mass flywheel from an e12 and bolt it on and out the door with a nice setup.

This doesn't work. My E34 clutch setup won't fit the E12 flywheel. Do you have any other experiences??

DMS wrote:

ElGuappo wrote:Find a single mass flywheel from an e12 and bolt it on and out the door with a nice setup.

This doesn't work. My E34 clutch setup won't fit the E12 flywheel. Do you have any other experiences??

You need to dump the dual mass from the e34. There are far more clutch options available for the single mass not to mention its lighter.

So that would mean the dual mass clutch won't fit a single mass. This is what I'm experiencing. So I need to buy me a new clutch PP bearing etc.

DMS wrote:So that would mean the dual mass clutch won't fit a single mass. This is what I'm experiencing. So I need to buy me a new clutch PP bearing etc.

the dual mass flywheel is significantly thicker than the single mass.

Thread revival!

And with that, plenty of questions for moving forward on this FI build.

So here is the plan, which I will update in the OP:
-Bastardized m30b34/b35 and m102 with a regular HG
-TCD modified 745i turbocharger
-FMIC hidden behind an IS airdam
-Custom m1.3 based engine management (TCD chip?, MS?, ?,?,?...)

Ive had a long time to assess the metal I've acquiring/ hoarding and I'm going to run the bastard block/ head. The rod bearings look very recently replaced and the pistons don't belong in this block so I will assume the rings have been replaced. The oil pump has been replaced, and now I'm resealing what I've got. This bastard block will be temporary until I have the build functioning in a chassis, then I will be assembling a block that can hold this "480RWHP" that the TCD website claims from this modified air pump. If I can put down 375HP and 400+ ft/lbs at the wheels I will be very satisfied. Anything more would be awesome, but that's the target I'm shooting for on the serious engine.

Back to the bastard engine. It is a bone stock b35 built in a b34 block. Standard HG and head bolts. This one will probably only see 12psi max as that is all the stock gasket will reliably hold.

Enough jibber jabber. I'm ready to drill holes in the side of the head to mount the exhaust manifold. I do not possess the factory 10mm hardware. I realize I can go to Ace Hardware and get some 10mm studs and stick them in there and have them rust/ corrode away in 2 1/2 months, or be really white trash and but some 3/8 studs in there.

Question one is: where do I find good hardware to mount this baby?

Lucas_Roehr wrote:Thread revival!

And with that, plenty of questions for moving forward on this FI build.

So here is the plan, which I will update in the OP:
-Bastardized m30b34/b35 and m102 with a regular HG
-TCD modified 745i turbocharger
-FMIC hidden behind an IS airdam
-Custom m1.3 based engine management (TCD chip?, MS?, ?,?,?...)

Ive had a long time to assess the metal I've acquiring/ hoarding and I'm going to run the bastard block/ head. The rod bearings look very recently replaced and the pistons don't belong in this block so I will assume the rings have been replaced. The oil pump has been replaced, and now I'm resealing what I've got. This bastard block will be temporary until I have the build functioning in a chassis, then I will be assembling a block that can hold this "480RWHP" that the TCD website claims from this modified air pump. If I can put down 375HP and 400+ ft/lbs at the wheels I will be very satisfied. Anything more would be awesome, but that's the target I'm shooting for on the serious engine.

Back to the bastard engine. It is a bone stock b35 built in a b34 block. Standard HG and head bolts. This one will probably only see 12psi max as that is all the stock gasket will reliably hold.

Enough jibber jabber. I'm ready to drill holes in the side of the head to mount the exhaust manifold. I do not possess the factory 10mm hardware. I realize I can go to Ace Hardware and get some 10mm studs and stick them in there and have them rust/ corrode away in 2 1/2 months, or be really white trash and but some 3/8 studs in there.

Question one is: where do I find good hardware to mount this baby?

Looks like McMaster Carr has the 110mm studs in black oxide. The 120s are available from BMW at $40/each.

derrith wrote:

Lucas_Roehr wrote:Question one is: where do I find good hardware to mount this baby?

Looks like McMaster Carr has the 110mm studs in black oxide. The 120s are available from BMW at $40/each.

Tell me, Logan...
Are these studs 8mm, and you put the 10mm "sleeve" on them, or are they "shoulder" bolts/studs? They NEED to be 120mm?

Edit: nevermind, found the ones you are referencing. I'm sure they NEED to be 120mm, but of course, finding some is a different story.

What's the deal with lower compression?

Will the anti ping of super low c/r make up for it in power
from the power lost in the first place from say, 9:1 ?

say 30psi it starts to ping and with 8:1 what will that
ping at, and will that make up the power lost lowering c/r?

Or does it need to be like 7:1 vs 9:1 to actually see an anti-ping effect.

Know what I'm saying?

WOW. $40 a pop. Is this way to big of a scumbag option. I think I already know the answer. Someone talk me out of if. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... rfqLineId=

Bump, with pictures. Look at that white trash b35 build! Anyone have my manifold to cylinder head studs?