MyE28.com DEV

So everyone knows what I do to clutches. Even if they hold they do not last long. My estimate is a good organic based clutch with proper holding power will last 50-70 launches at the drag strip. Needless to say I get sick of changing clutches.

Now that I am going through the auto to 5 speed conversion I am faced with the clutch decision once again. I am sure the most recent puck organic clutch is up to the job but it's longevity in my car is questionable.

I am actually considering a twin disc setup from CM. These are big money. They fetch aout $1200 more than a conventional setup but inlcude an aluminum flywheel.

I am not sure if anyne has experience with theses setups but here are my concerns.

1. The entire rotating assembly weighs 21lbs. The flywheel weighs 8lbs. Will I hate the idle characteristics?

2. Will twin disc actually last longer than a single disc or just offer more holding capacity?

3. Do I really want to be the gunea pig again?

Todd

quit beatin' on the cars and your clutch will last a whole lot longer

that's all I've got...as usual.

Yes!

T_C_D wrote: 3. Do I really want to be the gunea pig again?

Todd

1) You'll love the way it revs, you'll likely hate the idle characteristics because you'll need to tune the motor to idle at 1000 rpm or more.
2) It should last longer because more surface area should equal more heat dissipation which is one way you are killing your clutches.
3) DO EEET!

Remember, if you intend to sell them the market is limited, but you will be the guy to go to.

i have a 9lb aluminum flywheel in the e24. it idles around 900 just fine. i cant speak for the longevity of the twin disc but id probably buy one or three.

I was planning on stepping up to this setup once I wore out my current ceramic puck clutch. I hate the heavy pedal, damn near gives me a migraine whenever I cruise the city.

If you're using it as a drag strip car why bother with the swap?

you know you're fastest times will come with an automatic...

is it more for driving pleasure?

I am trying to understand what you're trying to get out of this...



How about This with a powerglide

BDK wrote:If you're using it as a drag strip car why bother with the swap?

you know you're fastest times will come with an automatic...

is it more for driving pleasure?

I am trying to understand what you're trying to get out of this...



How about This with a powerglide

It's my DD. My best 60ft time so far is 1.58 with a manual tranny. I need a tranny that can take the abuse so it can be the DD not the constant project. The auto has proven 3X that it will not take the abuse.

I think Todd's daily commute is back and forth to the Drag Strip.

Maybe something like this!

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... 29,r:3,s:0

it probably doesn't translate well but i see many satisfied dodge diesel guys with dual disc set ups on the street, southbend is by far the preferred source for indestructo clutches for badass diesel torque, sometimes the floater clatters with the pedal depressed and the weight of the system slows shifting, but this is with a truck tranny and also may not apply but the question may be valid, will the extra weight on the input shaft slow down the tranny?!

Air shifted jericho 4 speed or go home.

I have messed with triple disc tiltons on more than one occasion, they are nice and hold the power.I think Good&tight is running one. I believe it was from his m10 motor that he mated to the m30 project. So he should have some experience with a multi disc setup. My buddy's daytona prototype runs one as well. It's not cheap though, thats for sure.

Scottinva wrote: I have messed with triple disc tiltons on more than one occasion, they are nice and hold the power.I think Good&tight is running one. I believe it was from his m10 motor that he mated to the m30 project. So he should have some experience with a multi disc setup.

So it seems otis is running a twin disc setup. The problems I have seen with the twin disc supra's i've driven are with the low weight assembly you have what feels like a huge lack of torque and it's annoying in hilly areas. Even though the pedal isnt hard (only a little stiffer than stock) it feels more on/off. The most annoying thing is it's noisy as hell. You will prob get clutch chatter at idle. I know tilton because thats what i've messed with, they are around racing so much too. I believe alms, nascar, prototypes a lot of major series run tilton, you can get all kinds of parts for them.

It would only rattle at idle with the clutch pedal depressed.

mooseheadm5 wrote:It would only rattle at idle with the clutch pedal depressed.

True, which to me is nothing, that is still way better than a rock hard clutch pedal. The puck clutches i've driven on have rattled the same as well. You have to compromise something. Everything I read said they will last longer. As far as the idle characteristics goes, I know from playing around with standalone on an m30 they are very picky, and aren't known for having great idles so i'm thinking higher idle rpm would be necessary.

T_C_D wrote:
I am not sure if anyne has experience with theses setups but here are my concerns.

1. The entire rotating assembly weighs 21lbs. The flywheel weighs 8lbs. Will I hate the idle characteristics?

2. Will twin disc actually last longer than a single disc or just offer more holding capacity?

3. Do I really want to be the gunea pig again?

Todd

1. Your running MS so you can tune the idle.

2. It will last longer if you don't slip it a lot. Will deff hold more torque.

If you decide on the TD get the metallic one's they can take the heat, the organic one's once over heated can stick together and ruin.

You can always try a Clutchnet 3 puck disc with a good PP and see how you like it before you drop the coin on the TD.

Like you I got tired of changing clutches and went with the Tilton TD. Couldn't be happier, engagement is instant but shifts are smooth and takes the abuse.

Do you know what discs you are running? The Tilton housings are cheap as hell on ebay because of stock car racing, but there are several types of discs.

mooseheadm5 wrote:Do you know what discs you are running? The Tilton housings are cheap as hell on ebay because of stock car racing, but there are several types of discs.

They are metallic 7.25" discs, Tilton part# 64185-2-AA-10 29mm x 10 spline.

I ordered two Twin Disc setups today. Mine will come with a steel flywheel and the other for a customer with the aluminum flywheel.

Who's the other guinea pig?

George wrote:Who's the other guinea pig?

OldGreene34 in TO.

multidisc is the only way to go for repeated launches. it will absolutely last longer, hold more power, and have a lighter pedal for the power capacity. i was looking into an OS Giken set up a few weeks ago. for drag racing. you should seriously consider a carbon friction material. the carbon handles the higher temps from slipping the clutch much better than other materials. i am curious what your goals are too. i have driven and installed some of those carbonetics twin discs on the street in evos and they are amazing but cost over 2k. the good stuff costs a lot but, is worth it. i guess it depends how much longer you feel like screwing with lower cost stuff. another thing is any decent clutch will require 500 miles or so of light start, stop and go driving. i know you have complained about that before. it seems as though you have spent more time changing clutches than just going on a little road trip to break in a decent friction material. kevlar materials hate not being broken in and will only last a few thousand miles if not patient with them.

sideways7 wrote: i know you have complained about that before. it seems as though you have spent more time changing clutches

I am going to use two fiber tough discs so no break in is required.

Good & Tight wrote:

mooseheadm5 wrote:Do you know what discs you are running? The Tilton housings are cheap as hell on ebay because of stock car racing, but there are several types of discs.

They are metallic 7.25" discs, Tilton part# 64185-2-AA-10 29mm x 10 spline.

So if a guy were to piece one of these together, these disk part numbers will fit any OT-II 7.25" clutch housing?

Where do you order an e28 specific flywheel and throw out bearing from?

You don't. You make one by machining a regular flywheel, having one custom machined from aluminum, or getting a flywheel plate to fit a flex disc. I would like to know about the release bearing, though.

I would think that one of the direct hydraulic actuated TOBs could be made to work with a setup like that.

I changed my mind. I am going with twin organic discs. If one single holds 441rwtq then twins should be fine for 600rwtq.

Tasty.

" If one single holds 441rwtq then twins should be fine for 600rwtq."

this is the complete opposite of the point you were trying to make about reducing surface area to increase hp holding in one of your other clutch threads. ( the thread talking about your puck clutch)