MyE28.com DEV

http://www.revshift.com/shop/index.php? ... oductId=76

I've never heard of these guys before and I'm unsure of the quality of the products, but at least it looks like a workable solution. Especially if you're like me and you have a 78mm flange and driveshaft.

That looks promising.

big ol shit storm on e30tech when he posted it, i am curious how well the urethane works

Its called a FLEX disk for a reason.

Say by by to your rear tranny bearing and DS U joints with that baby.


FAIL!

I figure it can't be worse than the way its running now. The guibo provides a temporary "squish" until the output flange hits the driveshaft and locks up. It provides no damping when its running metal to metal like that.

I've got spare parts in any case. I may be the guinea pig here. It just looks suspiciously like the typical "looks the part" Chinese made junk.

Yea i dont know if I would run that. Bmw puts the flex disc there for a reason. youll be going thought u-joints and center bearings in no time. Couldnt imagine the noise it would make.

They also make a 96 mm and fyi .. the red polyurethane bushing does flex.

I have never had a new OEM guibo fail. 1.58 60ft and no failure.

Mine is holding but it doesn't look too good. A 96mm guibo would be nice, but obviously the output flange and driveshaft need to be changed.

I may be able to get some pics of the tormented 78mm guibo this weekend. Its hurting.

turbodan wrote:Mine is holding but it doesn't look too good. A 96mm guibo would be nice, but obviously the output flange and driveshaft need to be changed.

I may be able to get some pics of the tormented 78mm guibo this weekend. Its hurting.

Damn, I keep forgetting to see if I have a flange for you.

That'd be super.

Whole trans with flange would be fine too...

Roger.

Just install a E34 M5 (3.8) guibo. Make sure you buy the bolts too, you will need longer ones.

It is 96mm which means it is thicker, not bigger. I did this three years ago.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=27 ... ight=guibo
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=28 ... ight=guibo

That'll help for those that have the 96mm flanges. Good to know.

Duke wrote:Just install a E34 M5 (3.8) guibo. Make sure you buy the bolts too, you will need longer ones.

It is 96mm which means it is thicker, not bigger. I did this three years ago.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=27 ... ight=guibo
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=28 ... ight=guibo

Just as soon as I have a 96mm output flange and driveshaft. I've been stuck with the 78mm guibo for years.

I think today could be your lucky day. I've got one from an 88 528e, and I am 95% certain that the driveshaft in storage is the matching driveshaft for that car. Only caveat is that I never drove the car- it came in with a toasted motor. Unknown mileage as well.

Realoem says the 88 should have the 78mm flange. If not thats great.

While I am not sure if I am misremembering the year (maybe but I thought that was the car I pulled that computer and AFM I sent you) or RealOEM is wrong, or the car had a trans/shaft swap it doesn't matter. The trans I have on the floor is an M20 trans, has a 96mm flange, and the driveshaft does too. The joints in the driveshaft are in great shape with no binding.

Someone at the shop stole the release bearing guide sleeve, but the one from your trans should work according to the catalog.

Did you ever pick up the urethane flex disk: http://www.revshift.com/shop/index.php? ... oductId=78?

...or is the consensus that it is a cheap and poorly designed part and we're better off with the E34 M5 part: 26-11-2-226-527

If you've got the 96mm flanges theres no reason not to go with the e34 M5 guibo. Its a proven solution. I'll be going with it since Moosehead has a 96mm trans and driveshaft for me.

I will eventually get pics of the mangled 78mm setup. The flanges themselves are twisting as well as the splined section of the shaft where it telescopes in the middle. Hopefully the 96mm shaft is beefier end to end.

Bumping this thread because I'm having issues with this right now. I replaced my guibo last summer, and for whatever reason, it's already gone. My friend had an issue with his guibos needing to constantly be replaced, and I feel as if I've come across the same issue.

Can anyone tell me what's a good aftermarket option, and what other parts I should replace while I do the guibo? A friend told me the Revshift aluminum + polyurethane should do the trick, and in his words it would "outlast the e28".

This was my previous guibo that was replaced last summer, can't imagine my new one looks much better. The car vibrates through 2nd and 3rd gear unless you completely feather it.

I have to ask, you made sure you installed it in the correct orientation right?

Also this should probably be a separate thread.

Assuming you don't have a driveline issue and the thing is installed correctly in the first place, you should try using a real BMW unit instead of that aftermarket garbage. They will last for years.

Your issue is simply a symptom of another problem.

wkohler wrote:Your issue is simply a symptom of another problem.

For sure! I got thru Guibo's very quick when my driveshaft was in bad shape. Fixed the shaft (new u-joint and balanced) and after almost 20.000km it is still good.

Xenocide wrote:I have to ask, you made sure you installed it in the correct orientation right?

this was a year ago, i don't remember. I did install it with a shop tech so I can only assume it was correct.

Kyle in NO wrote:Assuming you don't have a driveline issue and the thing is installed correctly in the first place, you should try using a real BMW unit instead of that aftermarket garbage. They will last for years.

if the aftermarket one is made better why wouldn't i purchase it? my only concern is if it has the same specs as the oem one.

wkohler wrote:Your issue is simply a symptom of another problem.

great advice man, thanks.

kibur wrote:

Kyle in NO wrote:Assuming you don't have a driveline issue and the thing is installed correctly in the first place, you should try using a real BMW unit instead of that aftermarket garbage. They will last for years.

if the aftermarket one is made better why wouldn't i purchase it?

Gee, you think this one was made better than the factory one?

kibur wrote:

wkohler wrote:Your issue is simply a symptom of another problem.

great advice man, thanks.

Since I know you're being a smart ass here, I'll expand on my comments. Take your driveshaft to a driveline shop and check the balance of the shaft. Feel your u-joints. How's the center support bearing? Make sure all of your engine and transmission mounts are good. Also, I've seen shops make the mistake of putting the arrows facing the wrong way on a guibo which will kill it much more quickly than anything else.

Basically, it all boils down to that unless you are making so much torque you are twisting guibos to shreds, the stock one is all you need and if you're having a premature failure of that component, you need to look elsewhere for the issue.

I didn't know guibos had arrows. When I installed mine last time I had to study it. If you visualize the torque from the motor and its direction, it's easy to see installed wrong it pulls the driveshaft, instead of pushing it around. I can see how that could lead to early failure.
marc