Thanks
Rich
Air Compressors. What do I need to know since I am new to th
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Rich in Tupelo
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Spring Hill, TN
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DGM Calgary
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Calgary
- Contact:
Rich, I've used a Craftsman twin cylinder 5hp 30gal oiled compressor for all my work on the E28. It has helped change an engine, transmission, driveline, diff, subframe bushings, front struts, fenders and both bumpers. I'm sure I'm forgetting a thousand odd jobs too. It delivers 7.2CFM at 40psi and 5.6CFM at 90psi and is rated at 125psi max. I run an impact wrench (~500ftlbs torque), ratchet, airdrill, polisher/sander (this one puts the machine at the edge of it's advertized capabilities), air hammer, and cutoff tool.
If I could improve 1 thing - I'd go for a 60gal upright tank. You can see the craftsman products at Sears.com. There are a lot of alternatives out there. DON'T GO OILLESS!!!!
HTH
If I could improve 1 thing - I'd go for a 60gal upright tank. You can see the craftsman products at Sears.com. There are a lot of alternatives out there. DON'T GO OILLESS!!!!
HTH
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Rick I 87/535is
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
I have a craftsman compressor
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... ompressors
Does everything I need it to do with out to much drama. Runs out of poop when blow drying the car buy other than that I'm pretty happy with it.
[Edit by Rick I 87/535is on [TIME]1106951452[/TIME]]
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... ompressors
Does everything I need it to do with out to much drama. Runs out of poop when blow drying the car buy other than that I'm pretty happy with it.
[Edit by Rick I 87/535is on [TIME]1106951452[/TIME]]
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Craig in Davis
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Rich,
If you plan on using it a lot then get a good quality cast iron two stage vertical compressor with a large CFM. Personally, I think a 80 gallon unit with greater than ~14cfm would be good. The connection between the two cylinders should have fins to help dissipate heat.
I picked up my Quincy two stage compressor for $75 replaced the pressure gauge, new belt and pulley for the motor, new rod bearings, new wrist pin bushing and wrist pin for the high compression side (it had worn into an egg shape and was noisy), new gaskets, drain, etc. Total cost (purchase and repairs) $290. It pumps out 22 CFM at 150 PSI and is rated to 175 PSI. I think I got a damn good deal as Quincy is a good compressor. I see old Quincy, SpeedAire, etc for sale from time to time for a couple hundred bucks. I bought a SpeedAire 8 oz tool lubricator to create a mist of oil for tool lubrication.
I use my compressor for inflating tires, blowing out passages, drying parts after degreasing, ratchet, impact wrench, cut off tool, and grinder. As I have gotten older I really appreciate the ratchet, saves me from getting a sore wrist and forearm. The impact wrench I have is rated to 240 lb ft but at 90 psi it won't loosen lug nuts. I think it could torque them on pretty good simply by having a good rotating mass spinning at speed. Maybe it is my impact wrench, it was part of a kit from Costco for ~100 IIRC.
HTH,
Craig
If you plan on using it a lot then get a good quality cast iron two stage vertical compressor with a large CFM. Personally, I think a 80 gallon unit with greater than ~14cfm would be good. The connection between the two cylinders should have fins to help dissipate heat.
I picked up my Quincy two stage compressor for $75 replaced the pressure gauge, new belt and pulley for the motor, new rod bearings, new wrist pin bushing and wrist pin for the high compression side (it had worn into an egg shape and was noisy), new gaskets, drain, etc. Total cost (purchase and repairs) $290. It pumps out 22 CFM at 150 PSI and is rated to 175 PSI. I think I got a damn good deal as Quincy is a good compressor. I see old Quincy, SpeedAire, etc for sale from time to time for a couple hundred bucks. I bought a SpeedAire 8 oz tool lubricator to create a mist of oil for tool lubrication.
I use my compressor for inflating tires, blowing out passages, drying parts after degreasing, ratchet, impact wrench, cut off tool, and grinder. As I have gotten older I really appreciate the ratchet, saves me from getting a sore wrist and forearm. The impact wrench I have is rated to 240 lb ft but at 90 psi it won't loosen lug nuts. I think it could torque them on pretty good simply by having a good rotating mass spinning at speed. Maybe it is my impact wrench, it was part of a kit from Costco for ~100 IIRC.
HTH,
Craig
[QUOTE="Craig in Davis"]I bought a SpeedAire 8 oz tool lubricator to create a mist of oil for tool lubrication. [/QUOTE]
Curious about oilers.
Where do you place the oiler? Is it at the end of the hose, near the tool? Or, at the compressor side of the hose. If it is the latter, I wonder about oil getting sprayed through everything, like the blow gun, for instance. You may have just degreased a part, and now you want to dry it, but there is oil coming through the line!
I see the merits of a water separator (esp. in the humid climate I live in), but I dunno about having oil in the hose. I am pretty good about oiling my tools before use.
Thoughts?
Curious about oilers.
Where do you place the oiler? Is it at the end of the hose, near the tool? Or, at the compressor side of the hose. If it is the latter, I wonder about oil getting sprayed through everything, like the blow gun, for instance. You may have just degreased a part, and now you want to dry it, but there is oil coming through the line!
I see the merits of a water separator (esp. in the humid climate I live in), but I dunno about having oil in the hose. I am pretty good about oiling my tools before use.
Thoughts?
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Rich in Tupelo
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Spring Hill, TN
TJ, try not to take this wrong, but, go away, your starting to annoy me. If you want to postwhore yourself to the rank of 528e 5spd, do it somewhere other than Tech Talk. I don't even postwhore over here so take a hint. And for godsake, use a condom.
Everyone else, thanks for the input. Any particular reason for avoiding oil-less compressors? My requirements are that it needs to be small enough to store in a small space, run impact wrenches, etc. (once it breaks loose I can finish with hand tools if necessary) and be portable (so when Joshua in Savannah breaks something also we can fix it as we have a lot to do on his car before 5erFest).
Everyone else, thanks for the input. Any particular reason for avoiding oil-less compressors? My requirements are that it needs to be small enough to store in a small space, run impact wrenches, etc. (once it breaks loose I can finish with hand tools if necessary) and be portable (so when Joshua in Savannah breaks something also we can fix it as we have a lot to do on his car before 5erFest).
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DGM Calgary
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Calgary
- Contact:
Any particular reason for avoiding oil-less compressors? My requirements are that it needs to be small enough to store in a small space, run impact wrenches, etc.
Oilless compressors are EXTREMELY noisy. And not as durable as oiled. It sounds like you're going to run cross purposes with your requirements. You'll lose functionality if you keep it small and portable. The smallest I would recommend is the 30gal (the same as mine) and as I stated earlier - the only thing I would change if I bought today is the size of the tank - I'd go to 60 and I noticed someone else said go to 80. These are not portable "small" tanks.
Maybe you should think about an electric impact wrench if all you need to do is break stuff loose.
HTH.
No offense taken -- I was saying postwhore jokingly anyway.
To be more specific I have a Ingersoll Rand electric/oil air compressor. Like I said before, it takes up the entire corner of the garage with it's 100-200gallon tank(maybe more?).
I know Ryan Brenneman uses a smaller Craftsman (I Think?) portable electric air compressor. It's 20ish gallon tank is hardly enough to properly power any pneumatic tools such as an impact wrench. The compressor turns on every 30 seconds to 1 minute to compress more air -- and usually overheats and requires an extra fan to blow on it.
I believe oil-less air compressors are louder too -- But thats just something I heard.
As for compressors that require oil -- One downside is that they can leak! No fun in that. Plus the fact that you have to buy 10-30 oil to put in it every few months. I actually didn't know mine was oil based (passed down by my past great-uncle Pete) - and it started SQUEELING one day, turned out it had no oil left!
Anyway -- i'm sure that info didn't help too much. But I'm just enjoying the new forums Rich.
And I do use condoms
[Edit by Tjn182 on [TIME]1106879149[/TIME]]
To be more specific I have a Ingersoll Rand electric/oil air compressor. Like I said before, it takes up the entire corner of the garage with it's 100-200gallon tank(maybe more?).
I know Ryan Brenneman uses a smaller Craftsman (I Think?) portable electric air compressor. It's 20ish gallon tank is hardly enough to properly power any pneumatic tools such as an impact wrench. The compressor turns on every 30 seconds to 1 minute to compress more air -- and usually overheats and requires an extra fan to blow on it.
I believe oil-less air compressors are louder too -- But thats just something I heard.
As for compressors that require oil -- One downside is that they can leak! No fun in that. Plus the fact that you have to buy 10-30 oil to put in it every few months. I actually didn't know mine was oil based (passed down by my past great-uncle Pete) - and it started SQUEELING one day, turned out it had no oil left!
Anyway -- i'm sure that info didn't help too much. But I'm just enjoying the new forums Rich.
And I do use condoms
[Edit by Tjn182 on [TIME]1106879149[/TIME]]
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Rich in Tupelo
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Spring Hill, TN
don't skip on the quality of those condoms. As for the compressor info, thanks, that helps. I was just looking at a 30gal one over at Sears that did not look to bad and price was good. Guess it's time to also go hit lowe's and Home Depot and do some shopping. Normally I wouldn't care about portable but space is tight these days in the garage and I know that I will need to take it over to Joshua's house to help him with his 5er.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
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Craig in Davis
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Booker,
I have the oiler mounted in my garage. I run a 50 foot hose from the compressor to the oiler IF I am going to be using tools that need oiled. I have a shorter ~20 foot hose from the oiler to the tool. If I don't need the oiler I just use the 50 foot hose for air supply. I'm not sure if oiling the tool directly or using an oiler is better. I just figured it would make it harder for me to goof up the oiling process and toast a tool.
Craig
I have the oiler mounted in my garage. I run a 50 foot hose from the compressor to the oiler IF I am going to be using tools that need oiled. I have a shorter ~20 foot hose from the oiler to the tool. If I don't need the oiler I just use the 50 foot hose for air supply. I'm not sure if oiling the tool directly or using an oiler is better. I just figured it would make it harder for me to goof up the oiling process and toast a tool.
Craig
[QUOTE="Craig in Davis"]Booker,
I have the oiler mounted in my garage. I run a 50 foot hose from the compressor to the oiler IF I am going to be using tools that need oiled. I have a shorter ~20 foot hose from the oiler to the tool. If I don't need the oiler I just use the 50 foot hose for air supply. I'm not sure if oiling the tool directly or using an oiler is better. I just figured it would make it harder for me to goof up the oiling process and toast a tool.
Craig[/QUOTE]
Craig,
That sounds like a great setup! I'll definitely keep that in mind for my future garage. I agree that continuous oiling is better than per-use, I just don't have the capacity for 2 dedicated systems right now..
Too much stuff in my little garage!
I have the oiler mounted in my garage. I run a 50 foot hose from the compressor to the oiler IF I am going to be using tools that need oiled. I have a shorter ~20 foot hose from the oiler to the tool. If I don't need the oiler I just use the 50 foot hose for air supply. I'm not sure if oiling the tool directly or using an oiler is better. I just figured it would make it harder for me to goof up the oiling process and toast a tool.
Craig[/QUOTE]
Craig,
That sounds like a great setup! I'll definitely keep that in mind for my future garage. I agree that continuous oiling is better than per-use, I just don't have the capacity for 2 dedicated systems right now..
Too much stuff in my little garage!
[QUOTE="Craig in Davis"]I bought a SpeedAire 8 oz tool lubricator to create a mist of oil for tool lubrication. [/QUOTE]
[QUOTE="booker535"]Curious about oilers.
Where do you place the oiler? Is it at the end of the hose, near the tool? Or, at the compressor side of the hose. If it is the latter, I wonder about oil getting sprayed through everything, like the blow gun, for instance. You may have just degreased a part, and now you want to dry it, but there is oil coming through the line!
I see the merits of a water separator (esp. in the humid climate I live in), but I dunno about having oil in the hose. I am pretty good about oiling my tools before use.
Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
I built a manifold to handle the issues of dry air for tires and blow drying parts, and so forth; and to have oiled air for tools.
The rubber hose in the photo is input from the compressor, dry air is on the right, the oiler to the left of the input.. The maniforld is attached to the garage wall, and is readily expanded if I want to run an air line to another part of the garage, or through the wall to the outside. The drip rate of the oiler is adjustable.
This photo shows the compressor and the pressure regulator Installed to have full control on pressure to air tools, or a paint sprayer if I want to fun one. The regulator has a water separator, visible below the gauge. The drawbacks of this oilless unit, as I said in the old forum, are noise, only 130psi, noise, only a 60 gallon tank, and noise. The size isn't really relevant, it sits next to a work bench and the bench sticks out a bit more from the wall than the compressor.
[Edit by fastpat on [TIME]1106891960[/TIME]]
[QUOTE="booker535"]Curious about oilers.
Where do you place the oiler? Is it at the end of the hose, near the tool? Or, at the compressor side of the hose. If it is the latter, I wonder about oil getting sprayed through everything, like the blow gun, for instance. You may have just degreased a part, and now you want to dry it, but there is oil coming through the line!
I see the merits of a water separator (esp. in the humid climate I live in), but I dunno about having oil in the hose. I am pretty good about oiling my tools before use.
Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
I built a manifold to handle the issues of dry air for tires and blow drying parts, and so forth; and to have oiled air for tools.
The rubber hose in the photo is input from the compressor, dry air is on the right, the oiler to the left of the input.. The maniforld is attached to the garage wall, and is readily expanded if I want to run an air line to another part of the garage, or through the wall to the outside. The drip rate of the oiler is adjustable.
This photo shows the compressor and the pressure regulator Installed to have full control on pressure to air tools, or a paint sprayer if I want to fun one. The regulator has a water separator, visible below the gauge. The drawbacks of this oilless unit, as I said in the old forum, are noise, only 130psi, noise, only a 60 gallon tank, and noise. The size isn't really relevant, it sits next to a work bench and the bench sticks out a bit more from the wall than the compressor.
[Edit by fastpat on [TIME]1106891960[/TIME]]
Nice set-up, Pat!!
I tell you; my 2 stage, oiled, CH make some racket!! It doesen't have an air cleaner. (I got it second-hand). I have not been able to find one, either. That's where most of the noise comes from...
Does anyone know if there is a water removing system that installs before the intake? It would be nice to keep the water out of the tank in the first place. Esp. here in the land of >50% humidity...
I tell you; my 2 stage, oiled, CH make some racket!! It doesen't have an air cleaner. (I got it second-hand). I have not been able to find one, either. That's where most of the noise comes from...
Does anyone know if there is a water removing system that installs before the intake? It would be nice to keep the water out of the tank in the first place. Esp. here in the land of >50% humidity...
[QUOTE="booker535"]Nice set-up, Pat!!
I tell you; my 2 stage, oiled, CH make some racket!! It doesen't have an air cleaner. (I got it second-hand). I have not been able to find one, either. That's where most of the noise comes from...
Does anyone know if there is a water removing system that installs before the intake? It would be nice to keep the water out of the tank in the first place. Esp. here in the land of >50% humidity...[/QUOTE]
Thanks.
The moisture is pulled out of the air, and when it eventually cools in the tank, settles out.. I've never seen a cheap or practical method of drying the air pre-compression, and that includes using many systems in factories and garages. They all removed moisture between the compressor and final use.
On the air filter, I'd run a short piece of galvanized; maybe 2 inches, from the air intake (which should be threaded), and screw on a lawn mower, or other small gas engine filter. They're cheap and are usually threaded for a pipe thread.
I tell you; my 2 stage, oiled, CH make some racket!! It doesen't have an air cleaner. (I got it second-hand). I have not been able to find one, either. That's where most of the noise comes from...
Does anyone know if there is a water removing system that installs before the intake? It would be nice to keep the water out of the tank in the first place. Esp. here in the land of >50% humidity...[/QUOTE]
Thanks.
The moisture is pulled out of the air, and when it eventually cools in the tank, settles out.. I've never seen a cheap or practical method of drying the air pre-compression, and that includes using many systems in factories and garages. They all removed moisture between the compressor and final use.
On the air filter, I'd run a short piece of galvanized; maybe 2 inches, from the air intake (which should be threaded), and screw on a lawn mower, or other small gas engine filter. They're cheap and are usually threaded for a pipe thread.
[QUOTE="fastpat"]Thanks.
The moisture is pulled out of the air, and when it eventually cools in the tank, settles out.. I've never seen a cheap or practical method of drying the air pre-compression, and that includes using many systems in factories and garages. They all removed moisture between the compressor and final use.
On the air filter, I'd run a short piece of galvanized; maybe 2 inches, from the air intake (which should be threaded), and screw on a lawn mower, or other small gas engine filter. They're cheap and are usually threaded for a pipe thread.[/QUOTE]
Kinda figured that about the water separator...
I was considering the same kind of thing for the intake muffling. Should work OK, huh?
This is good stuff.
The moisture is pulled out of the air, and when it eventually cools in the tank, settles out.. I've never seen a cheap or practical method of drying the air pre-compression, and that includes using many systems in factories and garages. They all removed moisture between the compressor and final use.
On the air filter, I'd run a short piece of galvanized; maybe 2 inches, from the air intake (which should be threaded), and screw on a lawn mower, or other small gas engine filter. They're cheap and are usually threaded for a pipe thread.[/QUOTE]
Kinda figured that about the water separator...
I was considering the same kind of thing for the intake muffling. Should work OK, huh?
This is good stuff.
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Craig in Davis
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
[QUOTE="Craig in Davis"]FastPat,
Is that a e9 CS I see in your garage?
Craig[/QUOTE]
That there Baikal Metallic car you see is a 1972 3.0 CSi, indeed. It's up on jacks in the driveway now, getting a 5-speed and assorted other things. It took a back seat to the 325i while I get the latter in shape as a fun commuter car.
Is that a e9 CS I see in your garage?
Craig[/QUOTE]
That there Baikal Metallic car you see is a 1972 3.0 CSi, indeed. It's up on jacks in the driveway now, getting a 5-speed and assorted other things. It took a back seat to the 325i while I get the latter in shape as a fun commuter car.
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Craig in Davis
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM