E28 Shifter FAQ

BigMac · Post by **BigMac** » Jan 29, 2010 3:34 PM

Just wanted to give people a heads up that Understeer.com has what appears to be the Z3 shifter in their SSK for $90.

http://www.understeer.com/onlinestore-shifters.shtml

I ordered mine today.

I also added on the Delrin carrier bushings they offer.

$130 shipped seemed like a pretty good deal for everything to me.

And to top it off, I ordered a ZHP weighted shift knob from Tischer BMW for $60 shipped. Another fantastic deal which can be found here:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... logid=4462

Post by **Brad D.** » Jan 30, 2010 12:12 AM

I love my ZHP knob. You can see my photo comparison here.

BigMac · Post by **BigMac** » Feb 08, 2010 7:28 PM

Understeer SSK installed.

Works great, but I'm curious if others have experienced what I'm experiencing.

On the 4-5 shift something is making contact with something that has to be spinning or something.

When stopped and at idle, there is no vibration in the shifter if I hold it all the way to the right.

When moving or shifting into 5th, there's a vibration that occurs as I slide it into gear. Once in gear, there is no vibration.

Any ideas?

chunnertyme · Post by **chunnertyme** » Mar 24, 2010 2:10 AM

Hello everyone. I've researched short shifters for quite some time and UUC came up a lot. The goal of this post is to help those who have any sort of uncertainty or are just curious of the UUC shifter.

Fortunately, UUC was having an online sale and I just pulled the trigger and ordered one. I personally installed the shifter this past weekend and there's good news and bad news.

First, the bad news: Installation
On the front of the Shifting Arm or Aluminum Carrier there is a clip that needs to be pried up and removed. Once this clip is removed, the aluminum carrier can be removed so the new components can be easily installed that house the shifter. UUC supplies new carrier bushings and a clip so I wasn't worried about destroying this damn clip. This task seems really simple but, it was an absolute bitch to 'try' and remove. I had the car on jack stands and access to it is very difficult. The instructions say pry the clip up with a flat head screwdriver. Then it says, if it doesn't come off, pry, pry again. Well, screw that. I tried for hours to get that damn clip off and was unsuccessful. So, I ended up just leaving it alone. By not removing the aluminum carrier, it makes the installation a lot more challenging because you have to tighten small allen screws into the sides of the carrier. Anyway, I left the dreaded 'clip' alone and ended up getting everything else all installed and tight. So...

The good news: This shifter rocks! It feels stable, solid, and definitely short. I think the throw is only like 4 inches from 3rd to 4th. I have a bit of resistance from 1st to 2nd but, It's all good. The driving experience is completely transformed while the shifter feels a lot more like a modern BMW. UUC components are top-notch and they did their homework. The height is adjustable as well. Visually, i'm trying to get used to the position of the shifter... When I'm in 4th gear with the UUC, it looks like i'm in neutral on my stock setup. I think it'll just take a bit of getting used to. Anyway, very happy with the purchase (I know it's a lot of money but, well worth it!) If there's any more specific questions, please PM me.

Thanks,

Kevin

Coldswede · Post by **Coldswede** » Mar 24, 2010 11:02 AM

Well, I just replace my linkage bushings, etc yesterday and removing the clip took about 45 seconds. If you'd like to know how let me know. It's a slightly different method than the ones I've seen on the 'net

BigMac · Post by **BigMac** » Mar 24, 2010 12:30 PM

I believe my friend that did my SSK install had issues with that clip as well, but he got it out.

A quick update on my SSK...

At this point, I've removed the harmonic balancer for the driveshaft. When the SSK from Understeer was first installed, the selector rod rubbed against the balancer when shifting to 5th. It wouldn't rub once in 5th. I was originally going to bend it like the e30 guys do, but the spot it was rubbing wasn't a spot that could be bent. Since the driveshaft is balanced on it's own, and the balancer is a backup so to speak, it was deemed that it isn't necessary currently. I've had no issues since removing it.

At this point I've also replaced the bearing on the top of the transmission along with the selector rod joint. I added some extra bushings to the selector rod joint to tighten it up a bit as well. Currently, the only part of the shifter linkage I haven't replaced is the selector rod itself, which there is no point in doing.

The shifter now feels very solid and tight, and while I'm still having my 3rd gear hard shift issues, every other gear feels great. I've got MT-90 going in today and am hoping that will help the 3rd gear engagement a bit.

bojangles · Post by **bojangles** » Apr 22, 2010 1:34 PM

Just noticed something with the order of parts for the Aluminum console.

The RealOEM diagrams are not consistant, but normally the list of parts is correct.

To connect the selector rod, the parts list and the diagram shown here, show 2 yellow plastic washers at one end, and 2 orings with a steel washer at the other end.

But the photograph, shows yellow washers at both ends without the Orings.

I am a little pissed because I paid a suposedly decent shop to fix up my shifter a couple of years ago, and it was never really any better. Today I am taking it apart, and there was only ONE yellow plastic washer at each end, no o-rings, no washers...... I dont know what they really did for the $$ all the parts look old.

ss109 · Post by **ss109** » May 19, 2010 9:15 AM

There is a bushing that I am in need of but it is not listed in the ETK.

In the bottom of the gear selection lever #25117533355 there is a plastic bushing that the pin of the selector rod goes through. Is this available separately? Half of mine is missing and the other half is cracked.

BillW · Post by **BillW** » May 29, 2010 12:00 PM

I have used the M/Z3 shifter on 2 cars now, and really like it.
One thing I do is shorten a new selector rod to move the shift handle back about an inch and a half. You can apply the ratios above to determine how much to take out. The weld can be sloppy and even a bit crooked. Perhaps there is a OEM rod that is the right length.

fastpat · Post by **fastpat** » Jul 12, 2010 7:09 PM

The current Z3 1.9L shift lever is 25117527252 and eliminates the yellow washer/bushings. It can be had for about $52.00 + shipping these days.

D Unit · Post by **D Unit** » Jan 10, 2011 1:07 PM

fastpat wrote:The current Z3 1.9L shift lever is 25117527252 and eliminates the yellow washer/bushings. It can be had for about $52.00 + shipping these days.

Where did you find that price? Pelican and Autohaus have it for over $70...

fastpat · Post by **fastpat** » Jan 10, 2011 2:53 PM

I buy from this site:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=214760

Pelican, unfortunately, is one of the highest around.

Post by **tsmall07** » Jan 10, 2011 5:42 PM

Has anyone mentioned that part #17 should be replaced with the metal pin found in the 8-series cars? That adds a little longevity to the linkage.

Post by **Shawn D.** » Jan 10, 2011 6:24 PM

tsmall07 wrote:Has anyone mentioned that part #17 should be replaced with the metal pin found in the 8-series cars? That adds a little longevity to the linkage.

I've never seen anything other than metal pins for that, even in junkyard cars.

davintosh · Post by **davintosh** » Jan 10, 2011 6:29 PM

tsmall07 wrote:Has anyone mentioned that part #17 should be replaced with the metal pin found in the 8-series cars? That adds a little longevity to the linkage.

Tyler: Are you talking about the dowel pin #17 in this diagram?

That would be #11 in this diagram from the e31...

If so, that's part #23411466134, which cross-references to the same part on the e28 (and what looks to be every other model sporting a manual trans..)

Post by **tsmall07** » Jan 10, 2011 6:58 PM

Weird. I have always heard that you should replace that piece with the one from the 8 series. Mine was metal when I took it out. I thought it had just been changed before. I guess I'm confused with something else.

Post by **mooseheadm5** » Jan 10, 2011 7:03 PM

Maybe you mean the release lever pivot pin?

Part 5

Post by **tsmall07** » Jan 10, 2011 7:06 PM

derrith wrote:
Big Bronze Rim wrote:I have added clarification to the sheet metal console info as well as added some of the information from Ron Stygar's excellent research on shift levers.
I've found with my sheet metal consoles that if you use one of the rubber bushings that hold the airbox (part number 13711259818) instead of part number 15 (stop buffer) it is much easier to install and far less likely to fail than that silly little rubber piece. I've also used transmission mounts if I've had one lying around. They work well.

Jody Goodwill used some skateboard part. I don't know enough about skateboards to recall what part, though.

djazz · Post by **djazz** » Aug 31, 2011 11:06 PM

FWIW: E39 M5 guys use the E60 540 shifter. I've read it's similar to the Z3M. No details though. Sorry.

dj

abdielhiram · Post by **abdielhiram** » Nov 08, 2011 5:04 PM

Quick question on this topic...

I am trying to get the gear linkage back to a normal state, as is real loose.. however while looking at the diagram posted here, i like to make sure this also applies to an Alpina B9 3.5s from Europe...

I am entering the VIN into Real OEM and matches with the exact diagram posted here, but while browsing trough the part numbers realoem says the parts listed are not compatible with the VIN given...

any ideas?

Thanks,

Abdiel

abdielhiram · Post by **abdielhiram** » Nov 08, 2011 5:09 PM

IT is probably this what i have to go after?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=25&fg=05

LA · Post by LA » Dec 02, 2011 5:39 PM

And by-the-way: The short litttle Z3 M shifter on an aluminum console adapts the rear bracket easily - shaft through rubber ring. The z3 M shifter, E28 boot and E23 manual console fits great, shifts like a new car and looks completely correct. I'm thinking maybe a wood wheel to go with the wood trim Ever see anything that made a BIG IMPRESSION on you in a 733 or 735??

I just have to get brakes sorted...got the accumulator, and s.stl hoses on the way. Not going to upgrade them. Any one have a MC for [1986 535i E28].

Anybody got an interesting steereing wheel or inspirational story for my E23 peoject?:

Yeah,yeah.....wrong place

EE TWO EIGHT · Post by **EE TWO EIGHT** » Mar 12, 2012 6:25 PM

How do you get the covers off so you can tell which console you have aluminum or sheet metal? I have a 1985 535i if that makes a difference.

TheLazyDog · Post by **TheLazyDog** » Jul 18, 2012 3:23 AM

The measurements aren't exact.

lilpoindexter · Post by **lilpoindexter** » Mar 10, 2013 8:08 PM

I'm prepping my '84 260/5 sheet metal console for swap into my '88. In the sheetmetal pictures, item 9 - Gearshift rod joint, has changed design a little, you don't need item 7 "tension bush"...the rod joint comes with a little wire clip. i bought my parts off autohausz...not sure it it was OG BMW or not.

EE TWO EIGHT · Post by **EE TWO EIGHT** » Mar 18, 2013 4:12 PM

So, I need to do this badly, So much so my shifter when the car is cold, hits the front back and sides of the console becase I let my boss drive it for two days and he forced everything so bad it screwed my already shifter to the MOON! Anyway, my question is, if I want to do this and get a shorter throw than stock, but don't want the shifter way notchy, what would be the best replacement shifter to use?

dave533i · Post by **dave533i** » Mar 24, 2013 9:56 PM

EE TWO EIGHT wrote:So, I need to do this badly, So much so my shifter when the car is cold, hits the front back and sides of the console becase I let my boss drive it for two days and he forced everything so bad it screwed my already shifter to the MOON! Anyway, my question is, if I want to do this and get a shorter throw than stock, but don't want the shifter way notchy, what would be the best replacement shifter to use?

I am in the process of a manual transmission conversion on my '85 528e and have made the decision to buy my parts based on reading all the posts in this thread and two others. Here in Tech Talk look for more shifter threads by Fiver Diver and Alpine34e28.
There are lots of opinions on shift levers but many people agree on the UUC DSSR. Buy that for starters. And get a new shifter plate from BMW, if applicable.

Speedster990 · Post by **Speedster990** » Jul 09, 2013 8:24 PM

EE TWO EIGHT wrote:How do you get the covers off so you can tell which console you have aluminum or sheet metal? I have a 1985 535i if that makes a difference.

I believe 85 E28s have sheet metal consoles. but if you would like to verify you are going to have to jack up your car and slide under there and look just behind the transmission. look at the top of the trans tunnel above the driveshaft if you see this you have an aluminum console

but if you see this you have a sheet metal console

DriveMachinE28 · Post by **DriveMachinE28** » Nov 14, 2013 3:08 AM

I would also like to know the best shifter that is shorter than my stock 85 535 shifter, yet not notchy like the Z4 3.0 shifter. Best may not be the right word. I mainly just want to know which shifter is most commonly used as a replacement. I get the impression that the 1.9 Z3 shifter is popular. Does anyone know how that one compares to an e36 M3 shifter?

zackwest24 · Post by **zackwest24** » Feb 24, 2014 11:42 PM

DriveMachinE28 wrote:I would also like to know the best shifter that is shorter than my stock 85 535 shifter, yet not notchy like the Z4 3.0 shifter. Best may not be the right word. I mainly just want to know which shifter is most commonly used as a replacement. I get the impression that the 1.9 Z3 shifter is popular. Does anyone know how that one compares to an e36 M3 shifter?

What do we mean by 'notchy'? As in when shifting gears, it has to sorta 'pop' before going in gear?

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